yeti
Well-known member
Cheese and rice,
Looking for an explanation of why a longer slave rod bandaid is not a good fix, I’m using a stock resurfaced flywheel ( had step height checked by clutch shop )
New competition forged clutch fork & pivot ball ( not shimmed as the directions!)
Lightly used act 2600 not even broken in ( had inspected by clutch shop and they agreed it’s not broken in ) @100 miles currently on my setup all city driving with light highway.
New OEM master cylinder FULLY EXTENDED
So the weird thing is the other day I adjusted the master because I noticed a grind going into reverse so I checked for drag by revving to 4500, the car inches forward.
When adjusting the master the first time I got to a point where I could no longer push the slave in by hand, so I proceeded to thread the rod in a 1/2 turn back in. I could then push the slave/clutch fork with my hand and locked the locknut on the master.
The other day I noticed a grind going into a gear so I removed launch limiter and revved to 6-7k the car inched forward again.
So I got down there and re adjusted but this time I backed the rod all the way to the last thread and I can still push the slave by hand.
What the fork.
Is there a leak in the system? Slave busted? Anyway to check?
My buddy said I need to thread the rod back in halfway but when I do that the clutch is literally 2-3” off the floor and has no engagement so I did that but put it back.
Currently the master rod is fully extended on the last thread, I can push slave in by hand
Could a SS clutch line really fix this problem? I have one waiting to install and will probably next chance I get but I’m almost sure it’s not gonna fix my problem.
I’m thinking the slave is letting air in? How can I check if the slave is busted?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated as Its currently my only registered vehicle and is being used for DD
Looking for an explanation of why a longer slave rod bandaid is not a good fix, I’m using a stock resurfaced flywheel ( had step height checked by clutch shop )
New competition forged clutch fork & pivot ball ( not shimmed as the directions!)
Lightly used act 2600 not even broken in ( had inspected by clutch shop and they agreed it’s not broken in ) @100 miles currently on my setup all city driving with light highway.
New OEM master cylinder FULLY EXTENDED
So the weird thing is the other day I adjusted the master because I noticed a grind going into reverse so I checked for drag by revving to 4500, the car inches forward.
When adjusting the master the first time I got to a point where I could no longer push the slave in by hand, so I proceeded to thread the rod in a 1/2 turn back in. I could then push the slave/clutch fork with my hand and locked the locknut on the master.
The other day I noticed a grind going into a gear so I removed launch limiter and revved to 6-7k the car inched forward again.
So I got down there and re adjusted but this time I backed the rod all the way to the last thread and I can still push the slave by hand.
What the fork.
Is there a leak in the system? Slave busted? Anyway to check?
My buddy said I need to thread the rod back in halfway but when I do that the clutch is literally 2-3” off the floor and has no engagement so I did that but put it back.
Currently the master rod is fully extended on the last thread, I can push slave in by hand
Could a SS clutch line really fix this problem? I have one waiting to install and will probably next chance I get but I’m almost sure it’s not gonna fix my problem.
I’m thinking the slave is letting air in? How can I check if the slave is busted?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated as Its currently my only registered vehicle and is being used for DD