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Choking on low rpm?

cheezeballs

New member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Messages
3
Location
Philippines
Hi, i'm new here. I need your help.
Engine:4g63na
Issue: choking on low rpm(1000-2000 rpm)

Had my tune up done. When my mechanic check the engine, timing was retarded. What we did, put it at top dead center. Since then, it would choke/misfire on low rpm, i have read few articles regarding the correct timing for 4g63. 5degrees advance, with the use of a timing gun, from TDC going to 5 to 10 degrees, choke on low rpm is much worst as i set the timing in advance but if timing is retarded, less choke.

Things i've done so far:

Change fuel filter.
Change spark plug.

Next in mind would be high tension wire. My question is, does it have something to do with the high tension wire? But why if the timing is retarded, it runs fine?
Hipe you can help me solve it.

Thanks!
 

EHmotorsports

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
Check cam timing and set ignition timing after you fix the cam timing issue. It may have jumped a tooth. Also do a boost leak test to verify you don't have any air leaks.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Note he says he has a non-turbo engine, so no boost leaks. Maybe a vacuum leak though.

High tension wire is a coil wire. Perhaps he has a distributor model engine?
 

idreamidrive

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2012
Messages
430
Location
Murray, KY
Was timing checked correctly by grounding out that black wire by the intake?

Only reason I ask is because I had a shop screw me over with this. Brought it in to get a smog check, asked to do a pretest. Passed, but they said the timing was off and if I wanted to fix it. I said sure, then asked if he was doing it correctly. He said yes and then they did the real test. Failed horribly and now my car is in the gross polluter category. I set the timing correctly myself and it passed emitting pretty much no emissions.

click
click
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Timing has to be set as stated above, with a connector grounded, AND the engine in the hot fuel maps >75 degrees Celcius.

It will not enter base timing mode (cancelling all timing advance and coping mechanisms) until the ECU sees a hot enough temperature from the temperature sensor.
 

cheezeballs

New member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Messages
3
Location
Philippines
Thank you guys for the response.
Did what you guys mentioned. I also had the spark plug wires replaced.

Got a few questions though.

How can i adjust how rich or lean it is?
Would you guys have a diagram or a clear picture of how the numbering of spark plug wires connected? The reason i asked is because the 2nd wire from the cam pops out by itself. Any idea why it does that?
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Cyclone dual runner plug wire layout.

click

1G plug wire layout link to pic:
Click Me

Second wire from the cam pops out??

Not sure of the style of motor, IE the distributor or Waste Spark/Distributorless system you may have.

Picture of area affected?
 
Last edited:

cheezeballs

New member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Messages
3
Location
Philippines
Thanks guys! Was able to solve most of the problem.

Have one more question.

There's no power if i step on the gas pedal. Isit still has something to do with timing?

There is an adjustment bolted in the engine bay's firewall, has an indicator of R-L (might be rich -lean). Does that help? What is the right adjustment?
There is also a screw type thing connected to the acceleration cable ? What does it do?
 
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