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BOOSTER/ MASTER CYLINDER

theevozero

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Oct 12, 2011
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331
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Odessa, Texas
If its super soft, thats probably what it is. If you have a way of applying vacuum to the master cylinder reservoir, it'll pull all the air out. At least thats what I do at work.
 

MellowVR4

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Milwaukee, Wi
How would you do that?
 

theevozero

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Messages
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Odessa, Texas
click
I use this specific tool, but as you might be able to tell, it may be difficult to adapt it to a gvr4 brake fluid reservoir. I've seen people use old reservoir caps and install a barbed fitting. This works really really well, but if you don't have one and have an extra person around, of course, you can just bleed them normally.
 

MellowVR4

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Oh, ok i see. Yea i think ill try and bleed them the normal way. Ive never bench bleed a master, But i do know how to do it. My question is when i finally get all the air out of the master and remove the lines, will fluid keep coming out the master where the fitting go into? And have to screw in the brake lines in pretty quick before the resevoir runs out of fluid?
 

theevozero

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331
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Odessa, Texas
I'm not sure how you would do this on a gvr4 master, but on master cylinder that have the reservoir mounted directly, I just leave the reservoir cap on and it keeps the fluid inside. Once you take the cap off, it'll start running out.
 

MellowVR4

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I see, so once the air is out of the master just put the cap back on before you remove the fitings from the master? and just plug the hoses up so no fluid comes out while you do that?
 

theevozero

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Odessa, Texas
Like I said, I'm not sure how you would go about doing it on a gvr4 master since the reservoir is remote mounted, but plugging either the flare fittings or the reservoir fittings should stop the fluid from coming out. Leaving the cap on causes a small pocket of vacuum under the cap, basically not allowing the fluid inside the master to move. Obviously, plugging the line fittings would directly stop fluid flow, but might still dribble a little.
 

MellowVR4

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So today im doing the master and removing my abs, i know this is going to be Pain with the manifold in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. I have all the line and valve, but my valve i removed from a 1g dsm fwd at the junkyard. Can i use one from a fwd? if i can't, why not?
 

theevozero

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Oct 12, 2011
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331
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Odessa, Texas
I don't see why not. Will it bolt up? The proportioning valve may be a bit different due to the fact that the front brakes on your car are bigger, so the bias may be off. Maybe someone can validate, I'm not sure on this one.
 

LIV4PSI

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Nov 24, 2011
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O-H-I-O
I have a FWD valve car on my car, never had any problems
 

MellowVR4

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Milwaukee, Wi
That's good enough for me, Thanks.
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
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Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting MellowVR4:
Is that all thats needed? just the master and booster from a 00-02 3g eclipse??



I don't believe you'd need the booster. Our cars already have 8"+9" booster from the factory. Same spec as 3g eclipse.
 

theevozero

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Oct 12, 2011
Messages
331
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Odessa, Texas
Correct. The booster is not needed.
 

MellowVR4

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Milwaukee, Wi
Just replaced the master cylinder from a 3g eclipse, didnt need to change the booster as you guys said. looks pretty good, lots more cleaner look aswell, Most important i have my brakes back. Also removed my ABS, Here are a few pics of the new master installed. Thanks for all the advice guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif



 

strokin4dr

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Aug 30, 2005
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2,770
Location
Savannah, GA
How close is the reservoir to the strut tower? Is anything touching or is the clearance all around? Looks good to me from what I can see.
 

MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
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Milwaukee, Wi
the fitment is perfect, doesnt get pushed in any way, literally the space is perfect.
 
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