prove_it
Well-known member
So you don't need to pull the oil pump off to do this then?
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Balance shafts: The reason to delete them
- Thread starterfivestardsm
- Start date
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Gentlemen, cutting the spring is a very bad idea!
The "issue" is a lack of bypass/return volume at the relief piston, and it only occurs when there is more volume than the valve can handle. (Think cold motor or very high rpm's)
Cutting the spring will lower the operating oil pressure, and it won't do a damn thing for the excessive pressure during cold starts, or high rpm pulls.
Just pull the oil fitler housing housing and do this job correctly. (Prove it, you don't have to remove the oil pump/front cover, just the oil fitler housing)
The info on the heads over on the tuner board has "some" merit, but only if they cut the ever livin dog sh*t out of your head, and at that point, you've got other problems... That said, I have always removed casting flash/radiused that area, as well a few areas in the block and front cover to reduce turbulence/aeriation of the oil.
Your mileage will vary, but cutting the spring is a very bad idea! It will cut the volume of oil headed into the motor, and that's just bad bidness right there.
The "issue" is a lack of bypass/return volume at the relief piston, and it only occurs when there is more volume than the valve can handle. (Think cold motor or very high rpm's)
Cutting the spring will lower the operating oil pressure, and it won't do a damn thing for the excessive pressure during cold starts, or high rpm pulls.
Just pull the oil fitler housing housing and do this job correctly. (Prove it, you don't have to remove the oil pump/front cover, just the oil fitler housing)
The info on the heads over on the tuner board has "some" merit, but only if they cut the ever livin dog sh*t out of your head, and at that point, you've got other problems... That said, I have always removed casting flash/radiused that area, as well a few areas in the block and front cover to reduce turbulence/aeriation of the oil.
Your mileage will vary, but cutting the spring is a very bad idea! It will cut the volume of oil headed into the motor, and that's just bad bidness right there.
gvr4ever
Well-known member
Quoting deez:
This raises a question, as I am thinking of removing the balance shafts soon. The car has 182k on it, so I figure its a good way to keep it going longer. I was planning on doing the removal in the car, which means one will stay in the motor due to inability to pull it with the motor in the car. With that, and taking one out, so I run the risk of having too high of oil pressure which I hear is common when the removal is done?
I'm still doing reassembly on mine, but the front can stay in the car, unless the bearings have already spun. I only removed the rear one @122K miles. The front one would be a complete bitch to remove in the car. I had to lower the engine a tad to get the rear one out. It's a lot of work, but future timing belt jobs will go way faster. All I gotta say is, I hope I notice 15 extra HP. I hate doing that much work without power gains.
For a race car that have a AC and PS delete, I could actually see a half hour t-belt job. I myself would get stuck on the water pump bolts, but I think it would be possible.
This raises a question, as I am thinking of removing the balance shafts soon. The car has 182k on it, so I figure its a good way to keep it going longer. I was planning on doing the removal in the car, which means one will stay in the motor due to inability to pull it with the motor in the car. With that, and taking one out, so I run the risk of having too high of oil pressure which I hear is common when the removal is done?
I'm still doing reassembly on mine, but the front can stay in the car, unless the bearings have already spun. I only removed the rear one @122K miles. The front one would be a complete bitch to remove in the car. I had to lower the engine a tad to get the rear one out. It's a lot of work, but future timing belt jobs will go way faster. All I gotta say is, I hope I notice 15 extra HP. I hate doing that much work without power gains.
For a race car that have a AC and PS delete, I could actually see a half hour t-belt job. I myself would get stuck on the water pump bolts, but I think it would be possible.
Toybreaker is right. Dont cut the spring. Just port the OFH. Theres a write up on Tuners and its really easy.
Last edited by a moderator:
prove_it
Well-known member
nice, i always thought that the port went through the oil pump. Now I got yet another project.
