After 2 months I finally got car back from Atlantic Motor Sports

[WesternMD_VR4]

vr4play = yes as soon as the cams were put in the idle started doing that...why i was uncertain if it really was throttle body seals b/c it works fine up until then.. would adjustable cam gears fix that any? make it easier for me?? degree the cams? sorry i am still learning alot about vehicles... and biss screw? thanks for the reply tho i really dont think the plugs are making the diff b/c i had coppers when the cams were put in and the idle was just as bad as it is now

 

[turbofonz]

Quoting JCorbo25:
At 35psi it makes a difference, but my Evo ran just fine at 27psi on coppers.

If you are on a 16G size turbo, coppers work great and there are no need for iridiums. It's like putting premium octane gas in an engine designed for regular.



Iridiums are only a few bucks more a piece, and for a better running car I'll buy them all day over coppers. Coppers do wear out quite fast and get sloppy.

 

[DSSA]

Quoting turbofonz:
AGREED about the iridium plugs.

The car runs cleaner with them all around, and handles high boost better. My car was sputtering at 35lbs... iridiums went it and it was fine. I love hearing how people are still on the copper bandwagon. I used to go through plugs a few times a year... iridiums now and I haven't touched them since they went it. Both my cars run iridiums and my mirage will run them too whenever it's together.



The car isn't running better because you have iridium coatings on the plugs, it's running better because of the thinner electrode. That reduces the voltage required for a spark to jump the gap. Due to the coating the plugs will hold up longer with the thinner electrode, but it doesn't increase spark conductivity.

There's other reasons to stick with copper as well.

If you really need that kinda spark (especially E85/Meth guys), switch over to the BR8EG or BR9EG plugs. We've stocked these for years, but I've just noticed that Paul doesn't have them up on the site for some reason... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[vr4play]

Can you post a video of your car at idle. I would like to hear how rough it is. Degreeing the cams with adjustable cam gears just gets the cams where the manufacturer wants them to be. Sometimes the cheaper cams aren't were they are supposed to be when they are straight up without cam gears and if its off enough it could cause idle issues. I've heard of people having this problem with the BC272. Also we should make sure the cam timing is correct as that can throw the idle off as well. The biss screw is the Base Idle Set Screw. It is used to adjust the position of the ISC motor so the computer can control idle better. The seal on the biss is known for leaking as well but they are super easy to change.

 

[pot]

I'm willing to bet with the price this gentlemen has paid for repair that the head has more than likely been milled which further necessitates "degreeing" the cams regardless of manufacture.

 

[WesternMD_VR4]

ok guys here is the video so you can hear it..sorry for the bad quality but it does stall out

click

 

[Egalloway]

Bc cams are not that great. Two shops that have awd tuners close to me won't touch them without adjustable cam gears to allow correction. On the other hand they both said kelford and GSC cams don't need them. They both stated the bc272 cams cause crappy idle and in general low gains. Dyno sheets of users show the low spiky gains of them vs the higher end kelfords or gsc cams that produce big gains across the power band.
Suggestion from someone gone through similar issues. Pull the head send it to dale (bogussvo) and ask him for some insight. He is a huge resource and the man when speaking of the 2.0 head. If not toss the cams for some kelford 264 or gsc1 and retune with a tb rebuild you started good.

 

[Hittman]

Just to vouch...I used to go to Corey's shop all the time, but it seems like now any time Mason answers the phone they're "too busy". They did great work on my Evo 8, I've never had a problem with Atlantic MS.

 

[DSSA]

Quoting Egalloway:
Bc cams are not that great. Two shops that have awd tuners close to me won't touch them without adjustable cam gears to allow correction. On the other hand they both said kelford and GSC cams don't need them. They both stated the bc272 cams cause crappy idle and in general low gains. Dyno sheets of users show the low spiky gains of them vs the higher end kelfords or gsc cams that produce big gains across the power band.
Suggestion from someone gone through similar issues. Pull the head send it to dale (bogussvo) and ask him for some insight. He is a huge resource and the man when speaking of the 2.0 head. If not toss the cams for some kelford 264 or gsc1 and retune with a tb rebuild you started good.




Not following the stock profile, like HKS/Kelford/GSC do, cause the need to dial in to zero (think Web Cams for the old-school guys, forgetting the fact that they used to self-machine themselves down to perfect circles ;-) ).

As Pot stated, decking the head and/or block will put the 0* slightly off. However, think of it in these terms: A 4G64 swap, with a 6mm taller deck height puts you at a 3.75 degree difference, which is only 1/2 tooth (360/48 teeth). Your not taking 6mm off of the deck or head on a 4G63 (or should I say, if you do, you'll have bigger issues than cam timing..). So you'll only have a slight variation caused by decking the head or block.

This is why Mitsubishi came out with the MLS head gasket. It wasn't for "performance" and it's not a Ralli-Art part. It's a TSB part to compensate for engine rebuilds where the head and/or block was decked (cam zero, quench height, compression...). That it happens to hold up really well is just a bonus.

Josh