978/1000: MD Rebuild

Just started head job again after four months of sitting. After seeing the results of valves getting bent again, I concluded the previous owner set boost at 15psi with all stock internals. Floating the head is the result of overboosting. I will be returning the gvr4 to stock boost by removing the aftermarket manual boost controller. I've ordered the 4g63 head from National Cylinder Heads for $430 without core. I will be planning on building my own core up in the future. I also ordered OEM timing belt and newer Evo8-9 Four Layer Head Gasket from DSM Graveyard for $150. This will be my second head removal, I hope boost pressures won't set me back again. I will have all parts by Wednesday, hopefully have it running by the weekend. Can someone tell me what is stock boost pressure and with stock internals how much it can handle up to? Thanks guys! I'll update when running!

 

Uhhh... 15psi won't float valves. Sounds like timing jumped.

 

[DougPorcaro]

*15psi on a stock turbo usually wont stretch the head bolts. Valve float occurs at high rpm's.

 

[iLLeffeKt vr-4]

15psi is nothing for the stock head bolts or the stock head gasket. I used to run 21-23 psi on my 1g dsm which had 140k miles on a completely stock head/block. Then I upgraded the 14b to a b16g and still ran the 21psi creeping to 27psi (until I went with an external gate) and still never had any problems with the stock headbolts or headgasket.

Revving past redline will cause valve float. So unless the car was over revved the 15psi wasn't the cause of the damage.

 

If it could handle 15psi boost, can I stumped on what's making my timing jump. This will be the second time it has occurred. Everything was properly installed and torqued correctly according to manufacture's specs. I've never over-revved the motor when it last went out. I was driving taking each gear to 5k with max boost (80%wot), amazingly heard all blow-offs. Then 5th gear cruising at 2-3k and it takes a dump on the side of the road. I know that it wasn't over-revved because I was watching the gauges as I went on. My boost gauge registered 15psi on each gear so did instrument panel light up all six bars of turbo. I'm trying to figure out what else could have caused timing to jump... I just hope it won't reoccur again after this week's install... Give me some more feedback guys, thanks!

 

[spoulson]

I agree. 15psi is easy on the motor, but it's pushing it for fuel. You didn't mention timing belt tension. Is the tensioner new? Is the belt tensioned properly on each side? Do the cams turn freely?

 

Timing belt tensioner was not replaced, but did replace three pulleys. Maybe I should look in to that, didn't think because of its age it can affect it under higher loads. I'll have to make sure everything on the timing side is overlooked with more caution. I'll be returning to stock boost before I start the engine. Hopefully parts will be in tomorrow or Thursday.

 

[Ian M]

The timing belt jumping and bending valves has nothing to do with how much boost you are running. You can rule that out as a cause. Besides,15psi is sissy boost on a 4g63-lots of guys including myself have been running 25+ psi (and many making well over 400hp) on stock motors for at least 10 years.

The stock ECU is rev limited,unless the motor was mechanically overrevved by a miss-shift.

It obviously sounds like an issue with the tensioner,belt,or installation error. To start,a OEM mitsubishi belt and new tensioner (I would NEVER reuse a old worn out one again) is a wise idea.

 

[iLLeffeKt vr-4]

Like stated above....never reuse old parts. Try sticking with OEM stuff from the dealer or one of the better know dsm vendors such as JNZTuning or ExtremePSi for example.

Can you put up a list of all the mods on the car?

 

I'm still awaiting my oem head gasket (evo8-9) and oem timing belt from thedsmgraveyard.com does anyone have experience with this company? I paid for priority shipping on Saturday 7/18 and still haven't gotten confirmation on delivery. As far as mods done already to this car, boost gauge and controller, 2.5" flex to 3" with custom hi flow cat. I will have to find a hydraulic belt tensioner soon before I reassemble engine back together. Thanks for the support guys!

 

[Armitage]

Like has already been said, replace the tensioner and definitely take the time to adjust it properly. Sometimes it takes a few tries setting the adjustable tensioner pulley on the left, tightening it all down, rotating the belt several full rotations by hand, and re-measuring before you get it right. Check the spacing of the tensioner gap after all is said and done with some feeler gauges or use a drill bit per the VFAQ. Remember you HAVE to rotate the belt through it's full range to distribute the tension evenly. If you just set it and forget it, the belt will be loose after it starts up the first time. If you're not familiar with the process, all you need to know is here:

click

 

Thanks Armitage! Very useful info you've provided. I'm still awaiting my oem evo8-9 head gasket (4 layer metal) and oem timing belt from TheDSMGraveyard in by Wednesday-Thursday. Also purchased a new oem hydraulic tensioner hopefully be in same time. I have the new rebuilt head from National Cylinder Heads sitting. I can't wait...

 

SOOO SCREWED... Last timing belt job, I replaced brand new balance belt. I finally rolled my car in to the shop today and took off the timing cover. After removing the crank pully, I noticed a broken belt, as I removed the cover, you can see the balance shaft belt torn in to pieces. Literally no more grooves/teeth on the belt. I guess that is the source of the engine's demise. After further inspection, my co-worker and I noticed a crack on the left side of where the shaft is, and the balance shaft has a bit of lag when rotated. I'll have to purchase a oil pump with gasket and probably a balance shaft eliminator. Seems like this project will take some more time... I've received everything I've needed so far; timing belt, head gasket, head bolts, and hydraulic tensioner.

1) advice on the balance shaft eliminator kits..
2) who to purchase kit from?

 

Car Pics on Lift:



Timing Side:


Crack in Oil Pump near balance shaft:

 

Just about ready... List of parts already acquired:

Rebuilt Head
4-Layer MLS Mitsu Head Gasket
Mitsu Timing Belt
Balance Shaft Eliminator
Oil Pump
Various Gaskets

Work in progress to remove the oil pump and install the balance shaft eliminator. I've decided after rebuild to keep the boost pressure at 15PSI. Knowing that the BS Balance Shaft will not cause my timing to jump again, hopefully my galant will be out of JSB status and cruising the streets again. I'll have an update by this Friday to confirm it's running status. So far all the parts I've replaced shall allow this car to run maintenance-free for awhile (I HOPE).

Anyone know of a good bolt-on bov to install in place of the stock 1g bov? I know there's different types of flanges out there, do they make one completely bolt on (diamond shape with two bolts)?

Thanks GalantVR4 for great advice!

 

I hate waiting for parts... Soo close to re-install... Hopefully Balance Shaft Eliminator comes in tomorrow and I can start re-installing Monday. I got the oil pump off the block. I realized the extent of the balance shaft destruction opening the oil pan. The bearing for the front balance shaft seized and gave way to damage my oil pump.

Balance Shaft Bearing


Oil Pump Crack


New Oil Pump and Gaskets


Lift Stand Baller... for the week.


I can't wait to get this project on the road again...

 

Seeing damage like that, def. makes me a believer of why you should delete your balance shafts if your doing an engine rebuild.

 

Very soon... All that's left is timing side and head gasket... Estimating by tomorrow it'll be running perfect! Here's some pictures:

Stubby Oil Pump Shaft


Inner Balance Shaft Bearing


New Oil Pump w/ Balance Shaft Capped


Oil Cooler Housing O-Ring Leak Repaired


New Rebuilt Head w/ Intake


Cams Installed


Lift Stand Baller for one more day!

 

I finally got the beast rolling this afternoon. The vibration from the balance shaft elimination seems very minimal. So far after 40 miles of driving it is holding up good. The only issue I face now is at idle - 1st gear take off, there's a smoke cloud that smothers the person behind me. It's a dark colored smoke, not really blue with oil burning. It only occurs the most off first gear along, all other gears, there's no smoke. My co-worker said it could be the chemicals sprayed on the block while the head was removed. After the cruise today, I checked under the hood again, and noticed I placed my intake not correctly fully seated properly. I'm hoping the issue will go away. BTW I met a guy that's supposedly on this forum that has 357/1000 or was it 357/2000?