Short shifter build - UPDATE w/ pics
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Whoodoo buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051 62/2000
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posted 11/01/09 10:07 AM
I've been looking into getting better shift feel and a shorter throw, so I made a shifter similar to the one you can get from JNZ. It was really easy, cheap, and it has a shorter throw than a 1g. I started with an upper and lower shifter arm from a 3000GT.
First, I shortened the upper arm. Sorry about the cell phone pics, its all I have here.
Next, I made a new pin for the shifter cable because the old one is too big in diameter and I didn't want to do a sloppy grind job on it. Cut out old, weld in new.
Next, I made new bushings. I made mine out of Turcite which is similar to Delrin, but is internally lubricated. It was more expensive, but it was worth it for the cool factor.
After making all the parts and checking their fit, I painted it flat black. It would have been cool to powdercoat it, but I don't have any and I wanted to get the project done. Here you can see all the parts laid out. I made a new metal insert for the lower arm because the stock one has a little bit of slop and I was already running the lathe. Notice the order of bits for securing the top to the bottom. I don't know if it came from the factory like this, but the wave washer at the back does wonders for taking out side to side slop in the top half (there wasn't any even with the stock bushings).
The lower arm is thinner than the stock one, so the bushings are made to position it correctly so the bottom aligns with the selector lever below. The thicknesses needed were around .150" and .350" I believe. I don't have my car with me at school, so a buddy let me test fit the shifter in his 1g. Here is a comparison (not the best, sorry) between the rearward throw of the short shifter and then his stock 1g.
Here's how much this project cost me:
eBay: $30 for shifter (this is including shipping)
McMaster: $20 for the turcite (1' rod 1" diameter)*
steel, welding supplies, paint - free because I already had them
You can see how easy it was to reproduce one of the shifters JNZ sells for $150 at one third the price. And, if you match this with bushings for the lower selector lever, bearings for the cables on the transmission side, and shifter plate bushings, you will have close to the best shifter set-up around.
Once I'm home for the winter, I'll do a proper comparison between stock GVR4 and this shifter. Thanks for reading! *Delrin is only $5/ft for 1" rod
Edited by Whoodoo (12/14/09 10:28 PM)
Posts: 926 | From: Binghamton, NY | Member Since: 07/11/09 | IP: (128.153.223.45) |
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curtis  Space Blanket from NASA plumbed into the attic 475/1000
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posted 11/12/09 09:19 PM
Quoting Whoodoo:
Good idea, but shouldn't the stop thats built in allow for the correct amount of throw already?
There are no stops just some bent pieces of metal and a big rubber triangle piece. If You extend the tabs longer then drill a hole on both sides and weld on a nut then insert bolts from the inside screw them down flat and after the shifter is in place shift into 3rd adjust and then tighten down a nut on the back side of the metal plate on the shifter assembly and lock it down then do the same for 4nd and then check 1st 2nd 5th and reverse. might have to grind down or adjust slightly. Send me a PM and I'll see if I can find pictures on my old harddrive tomorrow.
92 GVR4 0475/1000
Greenhouse Effect Green
Exceeds Mechanical Limits "Put the dawg to work.
Ass, Gas or Milkbones. Nobody rides for free" Jon AKA Toybreaker
Posts: 11892 | From: Clarksville TN | Member Since: 05/04/03 | IP: (208.95.177.250) |
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Whoodoo buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051 62/2000
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posted 11/16/09 08:43 AM
Quoting EMX5636:
I would have left the top full length. The shortened ones feel great in a 1G, but IMO, are too low in the the Galant.
How low is your shifter? Also, what knob are you using? I only took out about an inch or so from the top part which made it about half an inch taller than my buddy's stock 1G. I also bought a weighted 2G knob which, correct me if I'm wrong, adds a little more height still.
You'll all have to forgive me because I won't be able to give any feedback on how well it works until December when I'm home.
62/2k
Posts: 926 | From: Binghamton, NY | Member Since: 07/11/09 | IP: (128.153.183.148) |
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Muskrat Senior Member 665/2000
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posted 11/18/09 01:33 PM
Quoting Whoodoo:
I was looking for a leather one from a 1G, but I may just end up keeping the stock rubber accordion. I don't know why but it gives a certain 'this car is almost as old as I am' charm.
I have a couple 1g boots in good shape. Send me a pm if you want one.
Make sure you have an e-clip on the shifter, otherwise 1g boot will just fall down.
Brian L.
91 Galant VR-4 #665/2000
Posts: 2105 | From: Lexington, KY | Member Since: 06/13/04 | IP: (12.188.154.180) |
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Whoodoo buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051 62/2000
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posted 11/19/09 07:30 AM
Quoting Muskrat:
Make sure you have an e-clip on the shifter, otherwise 1g boot will just fall down.
Got one, see pics.
But enough about my build. Has anyone else done anything like this? Anyone bought the JNZ bit? Which bushings have made the biggest difference in shift feel? I've heard all kinds of different things: some say putting bearings in the trans side of the cables is the biggest improvement while others argue replacing the rubber shift plate bushings with solid ones are the key. I'm hesitant to replace the plate bushings because I don't want chassis vibrations in the shifter. How much vibration does the shifter really pick up with solids in?
62/2k
Posts: 926 | From: Binghamton, NY | Member Since: 07/11/09 | IP: (128.153.223.11) |
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