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Short shifter build - UPDATE w/ pics


Whoodoo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845429 posted 11/01/09 10:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've been looking into getting better shift feel and a shorter throw, so I made a shifter similar to the one you can get from JNZ. It was really easy, cheap, and it has a shorter throw than a 1g.

I started with an upper and lower shifter arm from a 3000GT.

First, I shortened the upper arm. Sorry about the cell phone pics, its all I have here.





Next, I made a new pin for the shifter cable because the old one is too big in diameter and I didn't want to do a sloppy grind job on it. Cut out old, weld in new.



Next, I made new bushings. I made mine out of Turcite which is similar to Delrin, but is internally lubricated. It was more expensive, but it was worth it for the cool factor.



After making all the parts and checking their fit, I painted it flat black. It would have been cool to powdercoat it, but I don't have any and I wanted to get the project done. Here you can see all the parts laid out. I made a new metal insert for the lower arm because the stock one has a little bit of slop and I was already running the lathe. Notice the order of bits for securing the top to the bottom. I don't know if it came from the factory like this, but the wave washer at the back does wonders for taking out side to side slop in the top half (there wasn't any even with the stock bushings).



The lower arm is thinner than the stock one, so the bushings are made to position it correctly so the bottom aligns with the selector lever below. The thicknesses needed were around .150" and .350" I believe.



I don't have my car with me at school, so a buddy let me test fit the shifter in his 1g. Here is a comparison (not the best, sorry) between the rearward throw of the short shifter and then his stock 1g.




Here's how much this project cost me:
eBay: $30 for shifter (this is including shipping)
McMaster: $20 for the turcite (1' rod 1" diameter)*
steel, welding supplies, paint - free because I already had them

You can see how easy it was to reproduce one of the shifters JNZ sells for $150 at one third the price. And, if you match this with bushings for the lower selector lever, bearings for the cables on the transmission side, and shifter plate bushings, you will have close to the best shifter set-up around.

Once I'm home for the winter, I'll do a proper comparison between stock GVR4 and this shifter. Thanks for reading!

*Delrin is only $5/ft for 1" rod


Edited by Whoodoo (12/14/09 10:28 PM)

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ilraceu
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845432 posted 11/01/09 10:33 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Damn you I was gonna be done with my car this weekend! I just got back from the junk yard and there's a 5 speed 3000GT



Thanks for showing us that, should be put in the "How To" Archive

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845443 posted 11/01/09 11:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Gah! I wish there was one around here in a junkyard... the shifter I bought for some reason didn't come with the rubber shift stop and I can't find any online.

You could still get your car done. It took me only a few hours to modify the shifter and I was taking my time and shooting the shit with the guys in the shop a lot too. Really the only thing you have to make is the bushings for the lower arm. If you wanted, you could whip those out in about 20 minutes and voila - short shifter.



62/2k

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fivestardsm
"Savior of the damned and dis-owned"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845445 posted 11/01/09 12:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Or, you could make a kit for the guys that wanted to do this?

You could make your money back on the materials anyway.



VR4 Picture Post

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845527 posted 11/01/09 06:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
something else to do is address the surround around the shifter by welding on a nut on the front and rear so you can have a adjustable stops. I've got pictures somewhere but probably easier to do a search under my name. I've built a few.



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Whoodoo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845555 posted 11/01/09 08:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think I know what you're talking about... tried searching but nothing came up (searched your name +"adjustable" +"stops"). Why would you need to have adjustment in the stops? Doesn't the stop thats already on there allow for the same amount of travel as a stock GVR4 shifter?



62/2k

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845916 posted 11/03/09 01:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
with adjustable stops you can toss the rubber piece and adjust after the shifter/trans is in the car ....that way when its engaged in gear your not over extending the shift forks.



92 GVR4 0475/1000
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Exceeds Mechanical Limits
"Put the dawg to work.
Ass, Gas or Milkbones. Nobody rides for free" Jon AKA Toybreaker

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845957 posted 11/03/09 08:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good idea, but shouldn't the stop thats built in allow for the correct amount of throw already?



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jepherz Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845976 posted 11/03/09 09:44 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice. SAE car in the BG?



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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 846121 posted 11/03/09 04:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hell yea! That one's kinda old... Built it as a freshman. Its bullet proof tho, so we keep it around to destroy tires and whatever else we need to test.



62/2k

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EMX5636
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849229 posted 11/12/09 07:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You aren't taking into account labor though. I can do things cheaper as well because I don't have to pay myself...

It does feel great though. I would have left the top full length. The shortened ones feel great in a 1G, but IMO, are too low in the the Galant.



91 #108/2000- link
97 Kawi ZX7R Street / 03 ZX6R Track
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05 CTS-V
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Edited by EMX5636 (11/12/09 07:35 PM)

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849247 posted 11/12/09 09:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Whoodoo:

Good idea, but shouldn't the stop thats built in allow for the correct amount of throw already?


There are no stops just some bent pieces of metal and a big rubber triangle piece. If You extend the tabs longer then drill a hole on both sides and weld on a nut then insert bolts from the inside screw them down flat and after the shifter is in place shift into 3rd adjust and then tighten down a nut on the back side of the metal plate on the shifter assembly and lock it down then do the same for 4nd and then check 1st 2nd 5th and reverse. might have to grind down or adjust slightly. Send me a PM and I'll see if I can find pictures on my old harddrive tomorrow.



92 GVR4 0475/1000
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"Put the dawg to work.
Ass, Gas or Milkbones. Nobody rides for free" Jon AKA Toybreaker

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EMX5636
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849553 posted 11/14/09 09:30 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Curtis - The shifter you are talking about with the big rubber triangle is a DSM Style shifter. The JNZ ones, and this one, does have stops machined into the shifter itself. Not just the rubber hitting the shifter base.



91 #108/2000- link
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03 Kawi KLX400R Supermoto
05 CTS-V
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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849972 posted 11/16/09 08:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting EMX5636:

I would have left the top full length. The shortened ones feel great in a 1G, but IMO, are too low in the the Galant.




How low is your shifter? Also, what knob are you using? I only took out about an inch or so from the top part which made it about half an inch taller than my buddy's stock 1G. I also bought a weighted 2G knob which, correct me if I'm wrong, adds a little more height still.

You'll all have to forgive me because I won't be able to give any feedback on how well it works until December when I'm home.



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EMX5636
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850013 posted 11/16/09 11:32 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had the weighted 2G knob. My current EVO knob is even taller still. For me, it puts my arm at a perfect angle when resting on the center console.



91 #108/2000- link
97 Kawi ZX7R Street / 03 ZX6R Track
03 Kawi KLX400R Supermoto
05 CTS-V
09 Hummer H3T

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bazeng
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850019 posted 11/16/09 12:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What boots do you guys use with this setup?



Australia's Slowest VR4

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850199 posted 11/17/09 06:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was looking for a leather one from a 1G, but I may just end up keeping the stock rubber accordion. I don't know why but it gives a certain 'this car is almost as old as I am' charm.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850522 posted 11/18/09 11:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I managed to find a mint 1G leather one... Should have been stock.



91 #108/2000- link
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03 Kawi KLX400R Supermoto
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Muskrat
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850574 posted 11/18/09 01:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Whoodoo:

I was looking for a leather one from a 1G, but I may just end up keeping the stock rubber accordion. I don't know why but it gives a certain 'this car is almost as old as I am' charm.




I have a couple 1g boots in good shape. Send me a pm if you want one.

Make sure you have an e-clip on the shifter, otherwise 1g boot will just fall down.



Brian L.
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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850828 posted 11/19/09 07:30 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Muskrat:

Make sure you have an e-clip on the shifter, otherwise 1g boot will just fall down.




Got one, see pics.

But enough about my build. Has anyone else done anything like this? Anyone bought the JNZ bit? Which bushings have made the biggest difference in shift feel? I've heard all kinds of different things: some say putting bearings in the trans side of the cables is the biggest improvement while others argue replacing the rubber shift plate bushings with solid ones are the key. I'm hesitant to replace the plate bushings because I don't want chassis vibrations in the shifter. How much vibration does the shifter really pick up with solids in?



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Muskrat
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850842 posted 11/19/09 08:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have a 3000gt shifter in the car (came installed, I just refined it a bit. I always kinda wondered exactly what it took to do.) w/ solid bushings on the shifter base and the trans. I don't notice any substantial vibrations.



Brian L.
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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 857507 posted 12/13/09 04:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If anyone has been interested in this thread, there will be an update within the next few days. I arrived back home today and despite it being below freezing and past midnight, I couldn't wait to get the shifter in. Like I said, there will be a formal update with pictures soon, but for now there are just a few small things that need to be sorted.

I forgot how much I love this car! Now the gear change matches it too... flick flick go go!



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Edited by Whoodoo (12/13/09 04:43 AM)

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 857925 posted 12/14/09 10:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok update time. The new shifter is amazing! The shorter height, shorter throw, and weighted shift knob give a really good feel. There was a few more modifications that needed to be done to make everything fit - it was tighter in the VR4 than in my buddy's 1g that I initially fit it in.

Here's the short shifter next to the stock VR4 piece. The new ratio looks to be around 1:1 as opposed to 2:1 for the stock one.





Sits a lot lower than stock. I like where it sits now







Shorter throw too! Here's the old one.



And the new one.



There were a few areas that were tight. The passenger side of the shift arm just barely hit, so I had to grind off a few millimeters of material to clear.



The very bottom of the shift arm hit the left/right shift stop on the base, so a couple millimeters had to be taken off that too.



The nut on the driver's side is a tight fit, but only just barely rubs the inside of the shift boot. Im not too worried about it. Note that this pic was taken before the right side was ground down.



I had to adjust the front/back cable in order to center everything up, but it was really pretty simple. I highly suggest this mod to anyone wanting a better shifter.

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GVR-4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 858523 posted 12/16/09 08:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just got done machining some bushings for my shifter this past weekend, so I'll share my thoughts. I used brass and lots of teflon bicycle grease. I machined the upper-most bushings (oriented left to right) like you did, but left the plastic lower set (oriented front-to-back) in place. Instead I turned down a bolt (~.030 bigger OD than the one it replaced) to make sure there was no slop there. I also machined the one bushing on the "L" shaped arm that controls the cable on the left (best seen in your second-to-last photo). That was my real problem- that plastic bushing had disintegrated. I also machined the little piece that goes on the bottom of the lever that acts like ball and socket joint out of brass. I started with a Mofugas short throw shifter I bought when Mofugas was still around. I have the Symborski shift kit and I machined some polyurethane bushings for the transmission end of the cables. Overall, like you, I'm just trying to remove all the slop from the shifter linkage. I am satisfied with the results and the feel is much better. I still want to weld some brackets on the base to reinforce it so it doesn't flex and maybe put some stops in place to protect the shift forks. The car is my daily driver so I always have to have it buttoned up by Sunday night, so the shifter is back in the car and I took no photos. But the console is not back in place yet so I will try to snap a few pics in the next couple of days.

Also, check this out.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 858610 posted 12/17/09 02:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Thanks for the link, however, I don't think there is much play coming from the rod ends that are already on the cables. His apparently were made of plastic, but I couldn't see any plastic on mine . I think I followed what you were saying but pics would be a big help for those who haven't yet messed around inside the console.

As far as I can tell, the only play I have now is in the cables themselves, which is unavoidable. I heard good things about putting skateboard bearings in the trans-side of the cables but I am extremely happy with how this turned out. I find myself downshifting just because I like the way it feels



62/2k

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