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Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » How To and Info Archive » How to remove the Dash
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How to remove the Dash


DongeR
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 592480 posted 01/21/08 01:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How to remove the Dash on an Mitsubishi Galant VR-4

This process may save you weight (grams) if you only put back only necessary bolts, nuts, screws to stop the vibration and squeaks while driving although I do think you SHOULD put back all the bolts, nuts and screws.

What do I need to do this?

  • 12mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Foot Long extension for your ratchet
  • 1-Phillips screwdriver (mostly to remove screws and remove trim clips)
  • 1-flathead or standard screwdriver (to pry, be very careful when you pry)
  • Ziploc bags to hold bolts/nuts/screws
  • Paper and pencil to write what you put into those Ziploc bags
  • Clear packaging tape (to tape bolts nuts screws on the locations of where they need to be screwed/bolted/tightened)
  • Box or Space to put gauge cluster, kick panel, glove box, seats, center console, gauge bezel, radio, center console trim, etc
  • Masking tape or Labels (to label wires when you disconnect them, you only need to label 12 of them, which are the cigarette lighter, hazard switch, defrost switch, fog lights, dimmer switch, ashtray light, center console light, radio harness, radio antennae.


You will be disconnecting two harnesses at the fuse box if you disconnect more I would be worried. I used a label or sharpie to mark where they belong like A connector goes to A on the fuse box and B connector goes to B on the fuse box. That was all the marking I did, A and B.

I divided the dash removal into four sections, Driver side, Passenger Side, Center console (AC area), and armrest console. The driver side is the most detailed and longest part of the removal

Starting with the Driver’s side.

1. My kick panel was already removed so remove that first and set it aside. There is a diagram below of the 2-10mm bolts and 3 screws that need to be removed.



2.Remove the Dash Speaker Cover by gently prying UP.



3.


4.


5. Remove the 10mm bolt near the armrest console



6.


7.


8.


9.


10.


11.


12.


13.


14.


15.Gauge Cluster Area


16.Remove the odometer reset knob by turning it counter clockwise (don’t lose it or you won’t have one to put back). After the 2 screws and odometer reset knob is removed, remove the gauge bezel.


17.


18.


19.


20.To remove the Speedometer Cable holder, you will need to pull the Speedometer cable by releasing it from the transmission and pulling it closer to you then remove the Speedometer holder OR if you’re really good you can slide the holder down and off the cable and out. It’s more tricky than explained but you can break this if you don’t do it carefully. I’ve broken a few at the junkyards.


21.


22.


23.


24.


25.


26.


All Done with Drivers Side.

now...Passenger Side...


27.


28. I thought I took pics of the glove box but its not in the camera. So remove the undercover by removing the 3 screws and then the two screws that hold the glove box, the glove box should come out or fall with the two screws holding it.


29.


30.


31.


32.


All Done with Passenger Side.

Now..center console...


33.


34.


35.


36.


37.


38.


39.


40.


41.


All Done with Center Console.

Now..Armrest/Floor Console...

42. Here is a diagram of all the panels, bolts, screws and trim clips that need to be removed



43.


44.


45.


46.


47.


48.


49.


50. Remove the dash harness from the fuse box and make sure to label where it goes with a sharpie or a label!
The Dash should come out with no effort, if you tug, and it’s stuck, look around where it might be stuck.



ALL DONE!




Edited by DongeR (01/21/08 08:36 PM)

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Shiskibob
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 592481 posted 01/21/08 01:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Please move to How To!

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KGVR4
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 592484 posted 01/21/08 02:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
gvr4.org finest, This will definitely help a lot of people out.



06 IX Graphite Grey MR
#1169/2000 Belize Green (sold)
#669/2000 Summit White (sold)
#396/1000 Summit White (sold)
#60/2000 Nile Black (sold)
#916/1000 Kensington Grey (sold)
#1448/2000 Summit White (sold)

Posts: 1313 | From: Bellevue WA | Member Since: 09/19/04 | IP: (71.197.216.29) | Report this post to a Moderator

CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 592497 posted 01/21/08 07:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think you need the Phillips head for removing screws and the regular for prying not the other way around. Also that's a speedo cable, the tachometer is digital. Sick write-up though.

Posts: 1596 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (66.31.7.135) | Report this post to a Moderator

DongeR
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 592529 posted 01/21/08 09:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ahh just editing thanks! yea please move to how to

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strokin4dr
fighting them with a large needle
1280/2000
1135/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 592672 posted 01/21/08 02:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This will definately help me in the future, thanks!



1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

Posts: 2766 | From: Savannah, GA | Member Since: 08/30/05 | IP: (68.51.219.46) | Report this post to a Moderator

Qship
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 592805 posted 01/21/08 06:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Wow, what a fantastic writeup!! Incredibly thorough; you should be the one writing the FSMs.

Quote:

28. I thought I took pics of the glove box but its not in the camera. So remove the undercover by removing the 3 screws and then the two screws that hold the glove box, the glove box should come out or fall with the two screws holding it.




You sir are correct, but why not complete the package?




The two philips screws holding the hinges on go into the two depressions on the bottom of the metal bar over my feet. It's easiest if you leave the glovebox closed so the latch holds it up, then open it and as you lower it turn it away from the driver's side of the car so the tab on the left side of the 'box clears its retaining groove.




This is the glovebox latch assembly as seen from underneath. Undo the two center screws and the topmost 12mm nuts and the the two brackets and crossbar come out as one piece, and then there's two more screws (unseen) that hold the latch/stop on.

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mikus
weiterhin das Huhn f#$k
1994/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1060571 posted 04/04/12 11:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Great writeup
Be very careful not to miss that glovebox center bracket in QSHIP's post above ^^ holding the glovebox latch to the core. It's easy to miss, will bend when you try to remove the dash, and needs to be perfectly aligned on reinstall.

I prefer to leave the corner 12MM bolts by speakers in place until the end, to avoid inadvertant shifting

Don't forget your VIN plate off the old dash if you're scrapping it - some authorities will care, and your story will be far more believable with that VIN plate in your glovebox

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