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13" brake kit install with pictures

Luke

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2002
Messages
752
Location
San Jose, CA
Puny stock 11" brake setup.



Note the routing of the stock brakeline setup, which we will follow with the new stainless steel brakeline.
Clean and PB blast the fittings before removal.



Remove the stock caliper and brakeline.
Then, separate out the brakeline bracket that bolts on to the strut. This bracket will be reused.





Remove the stock rotor





13" cobra rotor versus 11" stock rotor.
I redrilled the 13" rotor to 4-lug setup.



Put anti-seize on the rotor mating surface, and bolt on the bracket.
I used anti-seize on the bolts, and torqued to 55 lb.ft.
A slight amount of grinding on the bracket might be needed. ( Strangely, I didn't need to grind when installing the bracket on the passenger side knuckle, but grinding was needed on the driver side. )



Attach the rotor with the centering ring.
You now have a choice of removing the splash shield. I chose to keep it.
If you keep the splash shield, slightly bend it out of the way to avoid rubbing on the larger diameter rotor.



Clearance the caliper where it mounts to the bracket. Just try to bolt-on the caliper, and clearance as needed.
Also, the fins on the caliper is hitting my 17" wheels, so I had to unleash my die grinder on the offending fins.
You can say that I run a "ported" caliper setup /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif





Finally, bolt the caliper onto the bracket.
I used loctite on it, and torqued to 65 lb.ft.



Use some hose and zip ties to secure the civic brake lines to the brakeline bracket, as such.
( Bonus point if you can line it up so that it says "Made in USA" as mine does /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif )



Attach the brakeline to the caliper and to the car as such.
I was able to reuse the stock U-clip to the bracket on the inner fender with very slight grinding of the new brakeline fitting. ( However, on the passenger side fitting, I didn't need to do any grinding to fit, so YMMV )



Closer look at the brakeline setup. Basically, it mimics the stock routing.



All done:

 
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Rausch

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Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
very nice. you should include a list of parts and numbers if you have them. as well as estimate of total cost. looks good!!!
 

boostx

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Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
4,326
Location
Orlando, FL
How does the pedal feel in compare to the stock one?
 
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mr.mitsu

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Joined
Apr 28, 2003
Messages
798
Location
canada
this should be moved to how to /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

great write up... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
 

boostedinaz

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Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Would love to get info on that bracket.
 

JNR

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Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
9,814
Location
ca
Did you get the bracket from Ron, or make it yourself?

Looks good and nice to have choices for large brakes, rather than overpriced (imo) Baer and others' setups!

btw, I'm sure it's been discussed, but are the Cobra's lug pattern the same as DSM 5-bolt (for swapped setups)? And, what years brakes work?
 

Luke

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2002
Messages
752
Location
San Jose, CA
Quote:
very nice!
is that with the brackets from Ron?



Yes, this bracket is from ron.

The cost of this setup varies lot depending on how well you source the parts.
I bought everything brand new, but the calipers.

My total cost was $415.

This includes paying big $$$ to a machine shop for redrilling the rotors. ( don't ask me why I have the balls to do engine internals work, but not to redrill rotors /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif )

This does not include a large can of unopened performance synthetic brake fluid. ( don't use brake fluid that has been sitting out, because brake fluid absords moisture from the air. )
You will need quite a bit of brake fluid to get all the air out from those empty calipers.

I would say that with a more careful part selection (i.e. cheap DSM-er way /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) and more of your working time, this cost can be brought down to about $300.
 
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Luke

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Joined
Jul 16, 2002
Messages
752
Location
San Jose, CA
Quote:
this should be moved to how to /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

great write up... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif



I second this, please move to how to section !! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
From my mustang days the cobra 5 lug and all wheel disk break set-up was around 1000 from the ford motorsport catalog then we discovered that the PBR brand calipers from the corvettes we're the same thing ecept didn't have corvette embossed. This brought the cost down 50%

A friend of mine has the bigger rotors from a ford contour svt for his Merkur and got them for dirt nothing from ford. I'll see if I can get the size from him and a price I know there factory crossdrilled and less than 100 for both. This might be a usable thing with a little home work.


Anyway like the port work and the mod looks way cool. Now get back there on the rears with the factory fronts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Luke

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Joined
Jul 16, 2002
Messages
752
Location
San Jose, CA
>> I know there factory crossdrilled

FYI, if you're road-racing, do not cross drill the rotors.
It is not as strong as the non-drilled ones, and the cross-drilled ones will crack at where the holes are.
 

Great write up Luke. Now who wants the last set of brackets?

I have seen some drilled rotors develop small cracks but I haven't seen them fall apart. Real road racers that I know, change their pads and rotors too often anyways so they seldom fall apart on them. Oh, I don't know about those cheap ebay special cross drilled rotors.

Ron
 
Last edited by a moderator:

kcpaz

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Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
1,307
Location
Gilbert, AZ
Quote:
>> I know there factory crossdrilled

FYI, if you're road-racing, do not cross drill the rotors.
It is not as strong as the non-drilled ones, and the cross-drilled ones will crack at where the holes are.



it's okay to used crossdrilled rotors for road racing (people do it all the time), but you have to inspect them after each event and replace them when they show signs of cracking.
 

gtride

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Joined
Jan 25, 2005
Messages
894
Location
NorCal ----- Moscow, RUS
Got dibs on the Last Brackets. I'll stop by your shop Ron tomorrow and pick them up if that's cool?
 

Luke

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Joined
Jul 16, 2002
Messages
752
Location
San Jose, CA
Posting some updates here..

The piston size of the camaro calipers move the brake balance too much to the fronts.
So, I researched, and found that you can simply swap the camaro calipers with the corvette ones.

Corvette calipers have smaller pistons, and make the brake balance much closer to the stock setup.
In addition, the smaller pistons and stiffer corvette calipers give you much better pedal feel.

Here you go:






 
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atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
I thought that might be the case but I've had no problems with the fronts locking up prematurely. What year 'Vette are they off of? I've got a hookup on 'Vette parts and could probably get a set for free.

John
 

Luke

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Joined
Jul 16, 2002
Messages
752
Location
San Jose, CA
Any C5 vette. It is the 2001 model. Not sure what year it starts and ends though.

Even the Z06 one would work.
The only difference between non-Z06 and Z06 calipers is the color.

Here are the piston sizes:
Stock caliper piston size is 41.3 mm
Camaro/LS1 caliper's is 45mm
C5 corvette's is 38mm
All of them are dual piston calipers.
 
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