New to Mitsubishi...few GVR4 questions
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raptorWagon less than one year to my birthday 1350/2000 362/1000
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posted 04/08/20 08:35 AM
Quoting iceman69510:
. There is also a pump on the diff that may cause problems if running with no fluid. Can't recall that for sure. Anybody else?
It will be fine if it's left up top, that's how it was on my first vr4 when I got it and continued for the next 3yrs in my possession which included a cross country trip from VA to WA and numerous trips to WI from VA.
92 Galant VR-4 362/1000
76 Galant Hardtop
79 Galant Sigma Wagon
88 Fiji Blue Starion
94 Montero SR
Posts: 2787 | From: Oak Harbor, WA | Member Since: 05/17/07 | IP: (2600:387:4:803::) |
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FlyingEagle  Eager Beaver
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posted 04/13/20 10:21 AM
Quoting BlackHornet:
Soooooooo....I will start a thread about the car and its progress but I have a question to ask first;
When the key is turned, I get nothing. Like, not even dash lights. My plan is to pull the motor to make it easier to get to the harness BUT I was wondering if theres anything that I could check first?
The clear topped fuses in the engine bay do not appear to be popped. Next thing I'm going to do is check grounds. How many are in the engine bay? Which ones should I be focusing on first?
Again, thanks!!!
Make sure you actually have a good ground with the condition of the bolt, and threaded hole on the chassis side. The cable should show no signs of being frayed and the green death.
You will likely have a ground going from the transmission case to the frame, the intake manifold at the throttle cable adjustment bolt to the firewall, some have a ground wire from the timing belt mount to the frame driver side, and there should be a rather large wire grounding the starter/trans case bolt on back to the frame near the battery and air flow sensor area.
No need to pull the motor to get to the harness, as you just may confuse even more of the parts and locations that are cemented in your mind as of yet.
One step at a time.
There is a bolt in fuse in the engine bay fuse block and it should be marked ALT on the cover. Make sure that has proper continuity and IS actually bolted down by following the harness it locates in (positive feed to the alternator).
Lastly, if none of that works out in your favor, the ignition switch could be disconnected or contacts worn out internally which in theory is as simply as finding the FSM and testing continuity across a pair of wires that should get some as a result of closing the key circuit.
C53A 1 of the ~1500
Posts: 1631 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (135.23.119.89) |
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BlackHornet Newbie 889/2000
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posted 05/02/20 01:37 PM
  Was able to spend a few more minutes in the car and decided to see what the under dash fuses were doing. I disconnected the ignition switch at the connectors. I then started to check continuity to ground with the fuses in and all were getting signal. I then pulled all of the fuses and started to test the connectors, the missing fuses are the ones that I was getting a ground signal to. I then replaced the other fuses and didn't have signal to them anymore. So, according to the fuse box lid, the missing fuses that are getting signal to ground are: Radio (10amp) Gauge (10amp) Wiper (15amp) Room, Clock (10amp) Mind you, last time I was poking around these fuses with my multimeter, I had a battery hooked up in the engine bay. After I found out that my grounds were feeding a 12v+, I stood up from the floor next to the car and then the wipers turned on and my passenger seatbelt retracted up as if it was locking a person in. I quickly shut the battery off side question: I see the on the layout labels that there are 2 blank spots. I then noticed that I have a 30amp fuse in the middle row blank spot and then a 25amp fuse in the lower row. Anybody know what these are going to? Are these normal fuses for these spots?
Posts: 24 | From: Tulsa, OK | Member Since: 04/02/20 | IP: (2600:8804:7500:1) |
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BlackHornet Newbie 889/2000
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posted 05/03/20 08:32 PM
After looking at the connectors and pins on the underdash fuse box, I then pulled the ignition switch apart to get it out of the car to look at the contacts within: This is what it looked like when I pulled it out, clean  Then I got the plastic cap off and the top copper plate fell out, I am pretty sure this is how it is supposed to sit  The lower copper plate  The springs  The pins in the connector, clean. the female connectors are just as clean  Should I clean this stuff off and add something new?
Posts: 24 | From: Tulsa, OK | Member Since: 04/02/20 | IP: (2600:8804:7500:1) |
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BlackHornet Newbie 889/2000
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posted 05/03/20 08:38 PM
After looking at the ignition switch, I then looked at all of the wiring that I could see from the drivers floorboard and everything looked just as OEM as it should. From there I went over to the passenger side and pulled the glovebox out to take a gander at everything behind that portion of the dash and nothing looked molested in any way. I peeked behind the center console and all wiring (that I could see) looked great. I then pulled the ECU to look for popped caps: looks as if it hasnt ever been touched. The screws didnt seem to have any bit marks on them either.  Connector pins looked great  Caps dont seem to be burst from the tops and even looking underneath, between the board and them, they dont seem to have burst   Nothing seems out of place/corroded on the backside either
Posts: 24 | From: Tulsa, OK | Member Since: 04/02/20 | IP: (2600:8804:7500:1) |
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