GalantVR4.org The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » Technical Discussions » Fuel Pump Question
Previous thread Next thread

Fuel Pump Question


Galant_martin
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1246518 posted 07/02/19 02:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hello,

i have an Galant with the 1.8L carb engine that i want to swap out with an 4G63t from my rust-killed car.
So i need to change the breaks (rear only drum), cable clutch to hydraulic, wiring loom.. and i need an elctric fuel system.

Carb engine use a fuel tube with clips for connecting the fuel tube to the rubber hoses, mpi use the screwable connections.

So my question, change the gas tank and fuel line or is there any electic pump solution which can be mount in the engine bay who is able to suck the fuel from the rear to the front and has enough power to feed my system?

Thanks

Posts: 38 | From: Austria | Member Since: 10/21/13 | IP: (213.240.65.116) | Report this post to a Moderator

fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1246520 posted 07/02/19 03:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
oohhh boy... this brings back lots of memories.

I used to have an '89 NZDM Galant GLX which is the equivalent of your car, or Japanese E32A.

To be honest, it is a lot of work and often not worth the hassle. I actually just ended up selling the car as it was despite the immense emotional attachment to it, and went and bought an already EFI model. I even bought an E33A JDM VZ-S parts car with the high comp 10.5:1 N/A 4G63 to keep costs down, but way too much work involved for not enough gains.

At the very least, you will need to do:

- Swap whole drum brake rear beam for disc brake beam
- Switch brake proportioning valve (and probably master cylinder too)
- Swap out ALL the fuel lines, this requires the front subframe to be lowered
- Swap out fuel tank
- Swap out multiple wiring looms - the carb car will not have wiring to the pump in the tank for instance. The engine loom is incorporated into the body loom so it becomes messy when transplanting into a non EFI car. Mine did not have A/C, electric windows or even electric mirrors, and the donor car was an auto so I deemed it was too much to swap in the donor car loom complete.
- Swap to hydraulic clutch master setup, this involves cutting firewall and replacing the pedal box from a car with hydraulic clutch to begin with
- Fabricate mounts in the engine bay for the EFI air can to fit to, if you want to keep it OEM looking. The carb car does not have this.


If you have a complete parts car, unlimited time on your hands, a big budget and LOTS of emotional attachment to this car then by all means go ahead with the swap. Otherwise, just sell the car and go buy another one, even if it's the 2.0 SOHC - at least it will already be EFI with disc brakes. Preferably find a GTi-16 or Dynamic 4.



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

-- Visit my JDM Galant VR-4 info & specifications site here! --

Posts: 2128 | From: Toronto, ON, Canada | Member Since: 02/23/09 | IP: (184.151.179.147) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
855/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1246521 posted 07/03/19 06:39 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Martin, Phil's advice is thorough and sound.

If you do decide to go ahead with the project, I would suggest the pump be put towards the rear of the car. Most are better at pushing fuel than pulling it.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10667 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

Galant_martin
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1246522 posted 07/03/19 10:15 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Okay. I have a complete ECI car here. GTi 16V with many many rust. (common problem here)

And the carb is, unknow why, with not rust.

1.) Swap whole drum brake rear beam for disc brake beam

I have an complete rear axle, ebreak cables and want to buy SS break lines too. Front breaks are changed to dual piston

2.)Switch brake proportioning valve (and probably master cylinder too)

Why, i want to stay with no ABS?

3.) Swap out ALL the fuel lines, this requires the front subframe to be lowered

Yes that is the part i want to put by, all the lines are in the donor too.

4.) Swap out fuel tank

It's in the donor car, shouldn't be a problem to change the tank

5.) Swap out multiple wiring looms - the carb car will not have wiring to the pump in the tank for instance. The engine loom is incorporated into the body loom so it becomes messy when transplanting into a non EFI car. Mine did not have A/C, electric windows or even electric mirrors, and the donor car was an auto so I deemed it was too much to swap in the donor car loom complete.

Yes i know that i need to change some things like adding the fuel pump wires... other things i didnt looked so far.

6.) Swap to hydraulic clutch master setup, this involves cutting firewall and replacing the pedal box from a car with hydraulic clutch to begin with
Yes, i have all the parts in the GTi.

7.) Fabricate mounts in the engine bay for the EFI air can to fit to, if you want to keep it OEM looking. The carb car does not have this.
No i use SD with another filter

Quote:

If you do decide to go ahead with the project, I would suggest the pump be put towards the rear of the car. Most are better at pushing fuel than pulling it.




Yes but if i put the pump in the rear i still need an fuel line for pressure, so i just can use the oem gastank.

And i dont think that the fuel hoses will work with just the metal clips under pressure and going to leak..

Thanks for your help

Posts: 38 | From: Austria | Member Since: 10/21/13 | IP: (213.240.65.116) | Report this post to a Moderator

AllanL
Heal and Toe


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1246524 posted 07/03/19 07:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting fuel:


- Swap to hydraulic clutch master setup, this involves cutting firewall and replacing the pedal box from a car with hydraulic clutch to begin with




he will just need to swap the pedal ass'y from the GTi, and drill the two holes for the hydraulic clutch master cylinder firewall mounting.

of course, there will the holes in the firewall for where the clutch cable used to pass through.

Posts: 250 | From: NV | Member Since: 08/05/08 | IP: (122.53.101.242) | Report this post to a Moderator

Galant_martin
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1246525 posted 07/04/19 01:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Yes i need to close the hole from the clutchcable.. i hope i find an rubberplug in my Part collection that fits


Should i do the fuel line new with polyamide tube? I think that would be easier.

Posts: 38 | From: Austria | Member Since: 10/21/13 | IP: (213.240.65.116) | Report this post to a Moderator


Pages: 1
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 3 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant VR4.org Moderator:  curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Thread views: 259

Rate this thread


News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.262 seconds in which 0.196 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.


Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page