Top 3 Reasons for Another Radiator Thread

[DR1665]

3. I believe that people who shop for the absolute cheapest parts on Ebay get exactly what they pay for.
2. I'm leaving this car stock until such time as ALL interior and exterior restorations have been completed.

And the number one reason you're reading another radiator replacement thread on this forum is...

1. It will be 100* this weekend, so, naturally, my original radiator has decided now is the ideal time to sh*t the bed.

It's time for a replacement, but I'm not looking for the cheapest price and I'm not looking to upgrade. Sadly, this is one of the few parts I can't just source from the rally car, as the rally car is sporting a DSM radiator until such time as I get one of those snazzy Scirocco units for it.

Now, I've done a little shopping and I'm looking for your feedback.

My first stop was TunersNation, but I only found a $200+, 2-pass, all aluminum upgrade. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Autozone: $135, would have to be shipped.
CSK-O'Reilly: $150, would have to be shipped
Rock Auto: $147, shipped
Performance Radiator AZ (division of USA Radiator): $139 in stock
Radiator Barn: $131 shipped

Which would you go with? Being "in-stock" locally doesn't present any added benefit, as I'm not doing this repair because I'm driving across the desert to spend a weekend in moar desert (though I am). She will hold up fine, but I've been a bit lax on topping off the coolant the last couple weeks due to company being in town and noticing the temp gauge *just* start to climb in the bank drivethru at lunch cemented my resolve to get this taken care of before summer "gets here."

Thanks.

 

[Muskrat]

Any good junkyards near you? Might be able to find a good condition stocker there fairly cheap.

 

[DR1665]

Too risky, but thanks. This is a messy, unpleasant job. I don't want to risk going to the trouble of installing something, only to find it's defective. Odds are better with a new, albeit generic unit.

 

Maybe Kent could make you one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I have a thermostat you can have. Used it for a little while and then I put the car up to go through it so it has only a few hours of use on it. DSM meet tonight at INO.

 

[boostedinaz]

If you are going for a stock replacment I would go with the Performance Radiator replacment. Had one in the Talon for a bit and put one in that Laser I traded. Both worked very well and they had metal endtanks not the cheaper plastic ones. Just my .02

 

[4thStroke]

I replaced mine with one I bought from a local automotive shop. The capacity is less than the stock unit and has plastic on the top and bottom. I believe I payed in the $130 range for it.

Are you looking for a composite/aluminum unit, or all aluminum unit?

I haven't had any problems with mine, but it's only been on the car for 6 months or so.

 

[Lonewolf64]

I have a radiator barn core and it is quite excellent. The only thing you have to worry about with OE replacements is whether the endtanks are plastic or metal. The radiator barn core has metal endtanks, and I believe it is a 2 pass system. I have run this radiator in 100 degree Alabama summers with the A/C blasting and never had an issue.

 

[boostedinaz]

Quoting 3of1000:
Maybe Kent could make you one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif



He still has the one from his old Galant but I don't think it is a stock replacment.

 

[JNR]

What is wrong with your original, do you know? Was going to suggest a good radiator shop to do a good once over and fix any leaks, if needed...(this may not apply to galants) They used to be able to make custom radiators from oem units by adding an extra row(s) and/or larger endtanks and such...Maybe an option?

I'm not a fan of aftermarket radiators, especially aluminum (which doesn't work as good as copper/brass in heat transfer, although weighs less), as they are generally waaay overpriced or ebay special....However, I bought an AFCO aluminum radiator for my chevelle and it was pretty reasonable (still not cheap, but 50% less than the ones in the catalogs, but better) and a work of art /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif May want to check them out, fwiw...

 

[Olson]

I just picked up a radiator for my 4.3 vortex s10 from radiator barn. it was a double bypass unit and was the cheapest on the market. io havent installed it yet but it looks very nice the build is oem , cant say much about it really
edit: it has plastic end tanks btw

 

[DR1665]

Radiator Barn and Performance Radiator have the metal end tanks? That's good to know. My search just got narrowed significantly.

The problem with the stocker? Not entirely sure. I'm losing a good amount of coolant. Overflow bottle is generally dry, no matter how many times I top off and burp the system (properly, I might add). Top of the radiator is always dry, though I suspect the pressure cap is due for a replacement. I think I heard it sucking air in that area recently. Was it the cap seal or just the overflow hose right next to it? Not sure.

The bottom of the radiator has the telltale signs of a split or crack though. Crusty, yellow sh*t, plenty of weeping drips forming. I get a puddle maybe a foot across when I park it hot and have added as much as a gallon of coolant to the mix recently to top it off. Temp gauge stays in the norm and has only hinted that it might be trying to climb once or twice between top-offs.

That said, I don't trust the stock temp gauge for sh*t. The one on 195 read fine as I was flooring it in first just to keep the car running on two cylinders enough that I could get off the highway when the headgasket went Chernobylz. I think the death rattle is actually the sound of the factory temp gauge finally reaching redline.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[iceman69510]

Not saying you have to buy it here, but I bought a Koyo stock replacement type, and it is the nicest aftermarket radiator I have ever seen for this car. Yes, plastic tanks, but so did the stock have them and look how long it lasted.

You may be able to find it cheaper, I paid about 140 for mine a few years ago though.

koyo radiator

 

I bought an all metal radiator barn one almost exactly 3 years ago. I just replaced it due to a leak.

Things I really didn't like about it:

-The tabs that the fan shroud bolt to stuck out too far thus moving it farther from the radiator.
-Paint started falling off leaving it nasty looking.

I replaced it with a Koyo radiator from ebay. IMO the Koyo is much better quality. It has plastic endtanks, but I really don't care.

 

[DR1665]

Revisiting this thread with an update.

Saw a nice, all-metal radiator from Performance Radiator here in Phoenix last Thursday night. Went and got one from Performance Radiator Friday afternoon. Paid $178 out the door. It's the same Indonesian radiator with the plastic end tanks that I'm sure I could have ordered from Rock Auto for $90. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Upper locating tabs were off by half an inch, so I had to take the Dremel to the lower locating grommets to produce enough lateral slop that I could bolt it in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

(10PM on a Saturday night. It's got a fan on it and has been installed. Not like they're taking it back. Whatever.)

Sunday afternoon, car is running cooler than ever with a new radiator, snazzy 160* thermostat, and fresh coolant. AC is blowing a cool 45* on the lowest setting. Life is good.

Temps start climbing.

WTF? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

Stop at the house to pick up a fan I wanted to show Mike. Car is boiling over. Not from the radiator cap. Not from the overflow bottle, but from under the timing belt cover. I can also hear the coolant boiling in the thermostat housing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

So I just left the Rock Auto website...

Water pump: $36 (f*** it, I'm going Polishspec)
Tbelt kit: $60
Cam seals: $8 (got a leak)
Oil pan gasket: $7 (got a leak)
VC gasket kit: $26 (got a leak)
TOTAL: $137

I wish I hadn't bought the over-priced local radiator. It's got a 3 year warranty, so I guess that's good, but still. Pretty bummed by this.

Damn car was totaled out last week, and now it sits in line behind the other totaled Galant while I mooch the wife's Isuzu.

/rant

Jayessbeeeeeeeeeee!

 

[boostedinaz]

That sucks dude. I feel bad telling you to go there and all they had was some weird knock off part. We'll getting it all together this weekend as long as Randi is felling okay enough for me to leave. She is having her wisdom teeth removed so we'll see.

 

[dsmless]

thats some really bad luck there, I am running a dsm aluminum mishimoto unit, never overheats even with ac blasting all day in rocky point, mexico

 

[DR1665]

Quoting boostedinaz:
That sucks dude. I feel bad telling you to go there and all they had was some weird knock off part. We'll getting it all together this weekend as long as Randi is felling okay enough for me to leave. She is having her wisdom teeth removed so we'll see.


No worries, man. You didn't know. That unit in your grandpa's old Laser looked so sweet. How were we to know any different?

Mike has something going on Saturday, so Sunday AM would be ideal if that works for you, sir. I'm going to aim to have the car taken apart and cleaned up before then. Appreciate your help.

And dsmless, you ought to roll up to Phoenix one of these days.

 

Is n't it normal for the coolant to boil though in these temps? I hear it in the lexus once in a while, in some other cars too, even motorcycles. I wonder if there is another problem besides the radiator or thermosat, like maybe clogged water passages or bad water pump. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Water pumn probably why else would it boil out of the timing cover.

 

[DR1665]

Water boils at 212*F, but the Preak 50/50 pre-mix I'm running isn't supposed to boil until 260-270*F. Since it was boiling in the block - and not the radiator or overflow bottle - I think it's safe to assume the water pump sh*t the bed and stopped circulating the coolant through the system.

Since there's a leak somewhere at the water pump too (weep?) air has been introduced into the system, reducing internal pressure, which makes it even easier to overheat. A shitty situation, but it's nice to know I'll be getting a lot of important maintenance done this weekend. Gonna try to rip it all down before Friday night.

 

[Polish]

Quoting DR1665:
(f*** it, I'm going Polishspec)




/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Do Work Son.

That cheap one I got looked solid, no plastic at all... All metal. I sold it to a local kid after I parted the car I bought it for.