What's the trick to bleeding that hard-to-reach bleeder screw on the ABS unit? The one closer to the fender, the front one is easy to get to, but the back one seems impossible with all the hard lines surrounding it like bamboo surrounding Charlie in the lush jungles of 'nam.
Posts: 724 | From: Gravette, AR | Member Since: 09/03/04 | IP: (18.104.22.168) |
1)Right Rear 2)Left Front 3)Left Rear 4)Right Front
I wrote it down on an index card years ago; I think it came from a manual or an FAQ. The order makes sense if the diagonally opposite wheels are paired, which I'm pretty sure they are.
Can't polish a turd.
Posts: 2610 | From: Asheville, NC USA | Member Since: 04/22/02 | IP: (22.214.171.124) |
posted 06/14/06 11:58 PM
That is correct. The right rear and the left front are on one "circuit" together. The left rear and right front are on the other. You want to completely bleed one pair before you do the other. It will still work if you bleed both rears, then both fronts, but the diagonal sequence is technically correct.
ABS doesn't matter, its the master cylinder and proportioning valve that splits them. Built that way so if you were to pop a brake hose or a caliper you would still have one front brake and one rear brake to stop with.
CP Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart
posted 06/16/06 01:19 PM
It doesn't really matter just as long as you're using new fluid, and start with the rears. Get some speedbleeders so you don't have to keep cracking and tightening the bleeder screws after each pump. These also allow you to do it yourself, since the check valve closes with the up-stroke of the pedal and won't let any air into the calipers.
While on this topic, what are some symptoms of the master cylinder going south?
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD
Posts: 8936 | From: West Simsbury, CT | Member Since: 08/30/04 | IP: (126.96.36.199) |