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Wont crank over consistently


JRuby
Newbie
525/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250411 posted 02/09/21 08:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hello! New owner of 525. I bought the car a few months ago and recently had the car delivered to OH from FL. Let the troubleshooting begin. The car is having issues cranking consistently. Most of the time when I try to start the car, I would hear a relay click, and the starter would not spin. The battery light and the 4WS light are on when this happens. Since having the car, I have put fresh oil and new oil filter on the car. Replaced the plugs with a set of BR7ES gapped to .029, and put a new battery in. The oil was pretty black, the plugs were toast. If I tried the key over and over it would crank occasionally. When it does crank, a lot of the time I can hear the starter spin (whirl). It will crank for a second and then whirl (No more teeth? Only catching in a few spots? Not getting proper voltage?) I pulled the one contact off the starter and cleaned it, it seems a bit more consistent but idk. These starters are no fun to get to. I have got the car to start a few times. On start will rev. up to 3k and then die out. I have got the car started and idling twice. The car has a surging idle, it has cams but there is an issue there.(leak test incoming) It has oil pressure, and idled up to temp, did not overheat. No horrible noises. Cool. I put the car in 1st and reverse and it moved, but dies out if you give it gas. I have ripped apart my house and garage for my multimeter it has been taken to the nether apparently, so awaiting a new one I guess. Going to check grounds and other signals when it arrives. I just got a siphon so I can pull the old gas out (car sat for at least a year or so) and put some fresh juice in. Also, need to make sure the car is getting fuel to the rail. I am no expert, (far from it) but trying to learn. Any insight ?

Thanks for reading,

Jacob




Edited by JRuby (02/09/21 08:30 PM)

Posts: 4 | From: Stow, Ohio | Member Since: 08/22/20 | IP: (2603:6010:7004:c) | Report this post to a Moderator

thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
866/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250412 posted 02/09/21 08:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Check all of your grounds and battery pos cable(s). Odds are they are original, and therefore very suspect.



Thom
866/1000 (PTE 1200's, billet 20g+, DSMLink v3, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, GC/AGX Coilovers)

Posts: 905 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Member Since: 09/24/14 | IP: (73.103.0.235) | Report this post to a Moderator

CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250413 posted 02/10/21 07:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
With starters being so cheap I would just throw a new unit in there. It's sounding like the internal contacts are going out. The free spinning is just the starter gear spinning but the solenoid not popping the gear out to catch the flywheel. If it sat it could even just use a few smacks with a hammer on the solenoid. But for ~$65 to not have to worry about it leaving you stranded sounds like a deal to me. And not wasting the time troubleshooting it.

These engines are low compression but starters still love current so running 4awg, both positive and negative, from the battery to the starter post and starter bolt respectively makes any car crank over like a boss.

Another electrical trick that helps this chassis out a lot that I've done a bunch of times is to take the factory alternator wiring (2x 10-12ish gauge white wires) and disconnect them from the alt and fuse box. Attach the alt end to the case of the alt with a bolt in the unused threaded hole and the fusebox end to the chassis ground point under the fusebox. Then run 4awg along the same routing path for the new Alt + to fusebox "in".

Windows work better. Radio is louder. Almost zero dimming of lights at idle.



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

Posts: 1657 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (173.14.186.153) | Report this post to a Moderator

idreamidrive
Member +
394/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250415 posted 02/10/21 12:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting CutlassJim:

Attach the alt end to the case of the alt with a bolt in the unused threaded hole and the fusebox end to the chassis ground point under the fusebox. Then run 4awg along the same routing path for the new Alt + to fusebox "in".



I am having a hard time picturing what you just wrote. Am I correct in that you are saying you are now using the factory alt positive wire (two white wires) as a ground and running a new 4 gauge wire as the positive?

Have you tried this without using that old positive wire as a ground? Or using a shorter run ground wire to chassis? I am just wondering if it's the new bigger + wire that makes the difference.

Posts: 426 | From: Murray, KY | Member Since: 10/10/12 | IP: (72.14.101.101) | Report this post to a Moderator

CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250417 posted 02/10/21 02:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes.

I originally tried it with a short piece of wire from the alt tensioner bolt with a nut on it to the PS pump bracket but instead of taking off paint or putting an E bolt in there and leaving the factory + wire sitting there doing nothing I decided to put it to use and tie it into the factory chassis ground location. And I didn't like 4 awg flopping around that close to the belts. You could figure out a way to support it but why.

Current is a loop so upgrading just one side doesn't accomplish much (unless there is a deficiency on one side from the factory). The double upgrade has worked great multiple times on Galants as well as other cars so it's just my go to at this point for short money.



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

Posts: 1657 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (173.14.186.153) | Report this post to a Moderator

JRuby
Newbie
525/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250469 posted 03/01/21 02:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Update!

Thank you for the input all. I started simple to resolve this, I cleaned all the grounds I could find with a wire brush to ensure a good connection. This took care of the car cranky reliably. Now I can start the car consistently. I found a huge issue that I should have addressed as the first thing. At the end of my post I stated I was going to pull the old gas out, and put new in. At this point the car would crank but would not start. So I went to siphon the gas out and to my surprise there was no gas cap on the car. The car sat for at least a year, in Florida. So I assume all the gas over this time has evaporated, and a lot of moisture was able to make its way in. Also, this clued me in that most likely the gas gauge is wrong, as the gas light was on but showing a half tank. So, I put 5 gallons of fresh gas in the car & a bit of fuel injector cleaner then borrowed the gas cap from my Evo until the new one arrived. It started. The idle is very wonky, most likely the ICS but we will get there. My main issue now is, when I put the car in first gear and go to drive, it starts to bog out. It feels as if you are starting in 2nd or third. IF you feather the clutch and get it rolling it will drive. I took it around my block a few times to try and run some fuel through the car. The car is not very responsive to the throttle. The car has AN fuel lines, so the filter is not in the stock location (if there is one) so when off work today I am going to track that down. I also ordered a new walbro 255 just to be sure that is not my issue. Just trying to keep updating as I go. If anyone has any ideas let me know!

Posts: 4 | From: Stow, Ohio | Member Since: 08/22/20 | IP: (151.181.232.214) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250470 posted 03/01/21 03:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was going to say fuel filter, but you got that covered. Injectors might not be flowing well after sitting or if bad gas clogged them. Now that it's running, I'd do a boost leak test again.

If the car as AN fuel lines, what other mods? Any fuel pressure regulator or gauge?

Do you know how long the car has been sitting overall? Timing belt history?

Also make sure the CAS connection is good and the clip is in place.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998


Edited by gvr4ever (03/01/21 03:32 PM)

Posts: 5996 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (184.170.166.66) | Report this post to a Moderator

JRuby
Newbie
525/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250473 posted 03/01/21 07:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hello,

There is basically nothing untouched on this car. Which is cool in a way, but makes trouble shooting a bit more tricky. Too much to to list so I will link the sale post from 2013 on this site. The previous owner put a jacks stage 2 tranny in the car but that is it I believe.

click

The car sat in FL for 2 years. I assume the same timing belt has been on it since 2013. There is a aeromotive FPR, it reads about 20psi on idle but have not checked when revving if it goes up (will test).

One of the first things I did is go over all the connectors I could find. CAS seems nice and snug.

This weekend I am going to do a leak test.

I had a question about the ECU it has a socketed ECU that was tuned with moates ostrich. What do I need to do to switch over to ECM link ? I figure this could make troubleshooting a bit easier and when I get the car going I will most likely take it to Buschur to be tuned.

Posts: 4 | From: Stow, Ohio | Member Since: 08/22/20 | IP: (2603:6010:7004:c) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1250477 posted 03/03/21 08:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I'd try and log before spending the money on ECM Link. The tune could be pretty decent, but I have no idea who moates ostrich is. I only have a tune chip by Keydiver (Jeff O) and it seems pretty stock running to me. Good enough for street use.

Not sure how to "test it", but your throttle body might need a rebuild. If it's never been done, probably worth doing.



1992 Nile black w/sunroof
15xK miles. 2nd owner since 1998

Posts: 5996 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (184.170.166.66) | Report this post to a Moderator


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