Cheese and rice,

Looking for an explanation of why a longer slave rod bandaid is not a good fix, I’m using a stock resurfaced flywheel ( had step height checked by clutch shop )

New competition forged clutch fork & pivot ball ( not shimmed as the directions!)

Lightly used act 2600 not even broken in ( had inspected by clutch shop and they agreed it’s not broken in ) @100 miles currently on my setup all city driving with light highway.

New OEM master cylinder FULLY EXTENDED

So the weird thing is the other day I adjusted the master because I noticed a grind going into reverse so I checked for drag by revving to 4500, the car inches forward.

When adjusting the master the first time I got to a point where I could no longer push the slave in by hand, so I proceeded to thread the rod in a 1/2 turn back in. I could then push the slave/clutch fork with my hand and locked the locknut on the master.

The other day I noticed a grind going into a gear so I removed launch limiter and revved to 6-7k the car inched forward again.

So I got down there and re adjusted but this time I backed the rod all the way to the last thread and I can still push the slave by hand.

What the fork.

Is there a leak in the system? Slave busted? Anyway to check?

My buddy said I need to thread the rod back in halfway but when I do that the clutch is literally 2-3” off the floor and has no engagement so I did that but put it back.

Currently the master rod is fully extended on the last thread, I can push slave in by hand

Could a SS clutch line really fix this problem? I have one waiting to install and will probably next chance I get but I’m almost sure it’s not gonna fix my problem.

I’m thinking the slave is letting air in? How can I check if the slave is busted?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated as Its currently my only registered vehicle and is being used for DD

Ok so the slave cylinder has fluid all up in the inside under the rubber boot.

Really hoping that’s my problem.

Gonna order an extended slave rod with new OEm slave from extreme psi just in case.

After installing my new slave do I need to readjust the master cylinder rod?

Also how would I go about flushing the system?

Just open a bleeder and keep closing it while pumping in new fluid?

Which slave cylinder are you using? If it's not the one with the smaller diameter piston (red) you're gonna have issues. Pull back the boot, it should be anodized red. If it's green you need to change it out.

Slave cylinder extended length rod doesn't help much as that distance gets adjusted out during the setup process. You are losing clutch pressure plate lever stoke if everything else is correct. Incorrect flywheel step height, a worn pressure plate lever throw out pivot ball and excess wear (slop) in the clutch pedal arm at the point where the arm is attached to the rotating pivot shaft can also cause clutch disengagement issues. Check for pedal arm slop on high mileage cars, and cars with heavy duty cluches that cause high pedal effort, as it is a common point of wear.

If the slave cylinder is bled of the air properly, and is the correct diameter slave cylinder, if it was defective it would be leaking fluid as that is the only slave failure mode I know of that could cause your issue.

Quoting 467:

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Slave cylinder extended length rod doesn't help much as that distance gets adjusted out during the setup process.
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After re reading this 10 times, your saying what I think I comprehend.

After installing extended slave rod I have to adjust master cylinder rod so that the gain from lever stroke is minimal, but in fact it’s there?

So it’s possible to adjust the master to a sweet spot that utilizes the extended slave rod without over throwing PP into clutch disc? I mean I’m guessing I need like .5mm of extra throw.

Or am I better of using a 2g master cylinder rod? click

No. I am saying that in actual use, with the proper clutch adjustment, the extended slave rod won't help at all, if it does it can mess up the throw out bearing and pressure plate. You are supposed to have a little free play in the pedal so the throw out bearing is not riding the pressure plate all the time. That is accomplished by the theaded adjustment between the pedal arm and the master as you show in the picture. So if you install the longer rod in the slave you should readjust the master adjustment rod to be shorter to get the freeplay back so the thowout bearing is not compressing the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is not compressed. The slave piston stroke has not changed in any way, so you really haven't gained any throw at the pressure plate and the clutch will still not disengage.

If you adjust to eliminate the freeplay, the extended rod will allow the master cylinder adjustment to heavily preload the pressure plate fingers by the throwout bearing. That will cause the pressure plate to possibly not have as much clamping force to the clutch initially, and it may actually allow the clutch to disengage. This is maladjusting the clutch and will possibly reduce the torque capacity of the clutch and pressure plate, while increasing dramatically the wear of the throwout bearing. So you might be able to get the clutch to disengage with the extended rod, but you cause other problems likely to bite you down the road. The extended rod just covers up the real problem by allowing a greater misadjustment of the clutch which will cause other issues.

From Road Race Engineering: click "If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing."

Quoting yeti:

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Quoting 467:

---

Slave cylinder extended length rod doesn't help much as that distance gets adjusted out during the setup process.
.

---

After re reading this 10 times, your saying what I think I comprehend.

After installing extended slave rod I have to adjust master cylinder rod so that the gain from lever stroke is minimal, but in fact it’s there?

So it’s possible to adjust the master to a sweet spot that utilizes the extended slave rod without over throwing PP into clutch disc? I mean I’m guessing I need like .5mm of extra throw.

Or am I better of using a 2g master cylinder rod? click

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Wow thanks for taking the time to explain that to me.

So I’m guessing that goes for the lengthened master cylinder rod as well.

What is the mechanics behind the reason the clutch is dragging?

Still baffled as to what to look for next.

Quoting 467:

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No. I am saying that in actual use, with the proper clutch adjustment, the extended slave rod won't help at all, if it does it can mess up the throw out bearing and pressure plate. You are supposed to have a little free play in the pedal so the throw out bearing is not riding the pressure plate all the time. That is accomplished by the theaded adjustment between the pedal arm and the master as you show in the picture. So if you install the longer rod in the slave you should readjust the master adjustment rod to be shorter to get the freeplay back so the thowout bearing is not compressing the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is not compressed. The slave piston stroke has not changed in any way, so you really haven't gained any throw at the pressure plate and the clutch will still not disengage.

If you adjust to eliminate the freeplay, the extended rod will allow the master cylinder adjustment to heavily preload the pressure plate fingers by the throwout bearing. That will cause the pressure plate to possibly not have as much clamping force to the clutch initially, and it may actually allow the clutch to disengage. This is maladjusting the clutch and will possibly reduce the torque capacity of the clutch and pressure plate, while increasing dramatically the wear of the throwout bearing. So you might be able to get the clutch to disengage with the extended rod, but you cause other problems likely to bite you down the road. The extended rod just covers up the real problem by allowing a greater misadjustment of the clutch which will cause other issues.

From Road Race Engineering: click "If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing."

Quoting yeti:

---

Quoting 467:

---

Slave cylinder extended length rod doesn't help much as that distance gets adjusted out during the setup process.
.

---

After re reading this 10 times, your saying what I think I comprehend.

After installing extended slave rod I have to adjust master cylinder rod so that the gain from lever stroke is minimal, but in fact it’s there?

So it’s possible to adjust the master to a sweet spot that utilizes the extended slave rod without over throwing PP into clutch disc? I mean I’m guessing I need like .5mm of extra throw.

Or am I better of using a 2g master cylinder rod? click

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Here’s a pic before I changed the slave cylinder, I’d imagine it’s in the same place now.

Ya really bummed.

Is there a way to test what your asking? Like pump the pedal 5-10 times then hold down and check if drags?

Using a brand new OEm master cylinder btw.

The rod is adjusted fully all the way out and I can still push slave in by hand, would using a longer master cylinder rod adjusted out until I can’t push slave in work?

Or is that the same idea as the extended slave rod.

Ok so pedal height is adjusted to the Max that still pushes switch,

I’ve adjusted the rod all the way to the last threads and I can still push the slave in by hand, that’s the weird thing, in jacks video you get to a point where you close off the valve in the slave and can no longer push it in by hand.

I can’t get to that point in my master as I run out of thread.

Nothing that I can see looks worn in the linkage but I don’t really know what I’m looking for to be honest. I’ve followed the links but the test say my pedal is good.

I’ll try the test your mentioning tomorrow, I drove up my driveway ( extremely steep ) and it didn’t want to come out of 1st after getting to the top, I pushed down on the pedal as hard as I could but didn’t change anything. I just applied slight pressure and it popped out ( as I’m typing this I’m sure that’s a bad thing to do and won’t be doing it anymore, I could of alternatively turned off the car.)

Is that essentially the same test, foot down for while and the car is locked in gear now? How would I go about testing the master cylinder? It’s brand new oem.

I checked the slave as I put it in for proper casting marks.

I’ve done the test but it’s solid as a rock when i let go, am I supposed to lower the clutch switch so the switch isn’t stopping it?

I wouldn’t say it’s getting worse, I’m daily driving the car right now.

I guess I’ll try an extended master cylinder rod

I had a somewhat similar problem recently except it DID get worse. I decided to bleed it again for the 3rd time, except this time, when my buddy pressed the clutch pedal in, I noticed the whole trans moved just a little. There's a bolt that goes through the trans into the block right next to the slave and that puppy was hand-tight. I torqued it to spec and now it shifts great as the slave isn't moving the entire transmission... lol

check it and see if its loose or missing?