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Fuel Line fitting


mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932855 posted 09/20/10 12:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Does anybody know what sort of fitting/adaptor i'd want to obtain in order to convert the end of the under hood fuel hardline so that i can put a fuelab (AN fitting) filter on the end of said line? I've tried google searches, to no avail. I didn't get much help here, either. All i can find is fittings that go into the top of the STOCK fuel filter. bleh.
Basically, i want to eliminate the stock, obtrusive, ugly black fuel filter, and stick a nice canister style fuelab filter in there. There are "fuel line upgrade" kits on ebay, which come with a filter that looks much like an inline turbo oil filter, but it definitely seems on the small side of things.
I have a tubing flaring tool. I'm considering buying an Earl's -6AN fitting, and drilling out or cutting off the flared part of the tube, then doing the same to the stock fuel line, and re-flaring it once i've slipped the earl's piece onto the line.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932860 posted 09/20/10 12:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not suggesting that you buy the whole kit but FFWDs fuel line upgrade makes no mention of modifying the fuel lab fuel filter that they use so that would be a straight -6AN fitting if that is what you are asking. For reference the web page is here

Fuel Line Upgrade

As for the fitting to convert the stock line to -6AN, I can't think of a better one than you have suggested but are you only adding the fuel filter for aesthetics? I realize the stock fuel filter is a major restriction but if you are going to go to all that trouble, why not just run a -6AN line from the tank to the rail?



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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TylerAdamson
circles method
934/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932867 posted 09/20/10 01:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I doubt you'll find a metric to an coupling that you're looking for. The line going into the fuel filter is a male metric fitting and the inlet/outlet on the Fuelab filters are also male fittings so you'd need a coupler fitting that doesn't exist. Your best bet as suggested was to either stick with the stock filter or change out your entire feed line to -6 line. Several companies now sell kits to do just that and include all the necessary fittings to make up with the sending unit.



1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD FP3565 Powered
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 934/1000

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932870 posted 09/20/10 01:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I don't know that i'd gain much for my setup by going to a "full" -6 setup, given that i have little (zero) desire to ever go faster than 11.5 on 93 octane. I'd just like to have the extra bit of overhead that an aftermarket filter and filter to rail setup would give; eliminating any question if problems do arise. Yes, a big part of this is due to the under hood "aesthetics" as well. I want my bay to look SUPER clean, and i want it to be easy to inspect/change the fuel filter. None of this "guessing" nonsense for as to whether or not a fuel filter is the cause of any possible restriction. If it's clogged, i'd be able to inspect it!
It sounds like the way to go would be to get a -6 AN fitting, take the ferrule type fastener off of it, and re-flare the stock fuel line. This is an easy procedure. I think this is what i shall do.

Any other suggestions are VERY welcome.
I thought about buying the ebay kit for this, but the goodridge/earl's filter just seems too small, IMO. I have the same thing on my turbo feed line. I can't justify an extra $60 for a filter i won't use, just to get the fitting they're including, given that i can just flare the line myself.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
Director of Housing and Urban Development, and carbon/kevlar balls


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932887 posted 09/20/10 06:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

I'd just like to have the extra bit of overhead that an aftermarket filter and filter to rail setup would give; eliminating any question if problems do arise. Yes, a big part of this is due to the under hood "aesthetics" as well. I want my bay to look SUPER clean, and I want it to be easy to inspect/change the fuel filter. None of this "guessing" nonsense for as to whether or not a fuel filter is the cause of any possible restriction. If it's clogged, I'd be able to inspect it!




I think someone is trying to justify their need for some bling in the engine bay. Actually that's cool. Most bling has no real practical function but as you stated this does have some potential to ease the hassle of checking a potentially contaminated/blocked OEM filter. For myself, looking at doing some changes to my second car, I'm not sure I would contemplate doing it the way that you are, I'd be inclined to either leave it all stock or fit a -6AN fuel line tank to rail. To me it isn't simply about the extra flow from a larger bore, but rather that if I did that as I did with the other car, I would pull the tank and completely clean/flush and restore it to be sure I had a near as possible uncontaminated fuel line. I have no idea what my fuel lines are like after 20 years!

In some ways, I am much worse than you. I have been trying to persuade myself that buying Magnus' mechanical fuel pump drive to install on the stock car would be a good idea, just so that I don't have to change out an in tank pump ever again. A 2000 hp capable pump on a car that will never see more than 350hp? ... perhaps a little OTT?



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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Adorsey
Member +
1942/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932890 posted 09/20/10 06:55 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok, I had just did my fuel line from tank to rail. With -6an fittings and line.
I joined the AN line with the hard line from the pump with a Earls fitting from Summit, (Female M14 1.5 thread, to male -6an) And it threads on like a glove.
I've seen -6an line coming from the top of the stock filter, where the bango bolt is used. I heard the banjo is the most restricted part of the system.
But the threads underneath could be the same as on top, so you could get the fitting to make it convert to -6an.
If you like that idea find the thread size and I can almost promise you that Summit has got it.
I have an extra fitting for the job I did at the tank, I had thought the return line was the same but no.
$10 and its yours click




*Just checked it with my old stock filter and line, and the fitting goes on perfect with no adjustment or change to the stock line.



1942/2000 DD
[email protected]
93oct b16g


Edited by Adorsey (09/20/10 09:46 AM)

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Struc
Not all filled in


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932909 posted 09/20/10 09:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Pushloc connector with rubber hose over the hard line tightened down with clamps.




Previous owner did it when he replaced the hard line from the tank to the engine bay. Don't mind where it's currently sitting - I have everything pulled apart to replace my intake manifold and replace my rear brake hard lines. Needless to say, it works just fine this way. I'll probably clean it up since I have everything apart again, but leave it functionally the same.



Curt Shambeau
92 GVR4 56/1000 (SOLD)
09 Lancer Ralliart (SOLD)
96 Spyder GS(t) (SOLD) - My 4G64 Spyder Website
1987 Montero SWB (Wideblock 4g64 build in progress)


Edited by Struc (09/20/10 09:16 AM)

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 932920 posted 09/20/10 10:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^^^ That's not exactly the look i'm going for. I know i can cut the line and slip a rubber hose over it. This is going into the "clean" gvr4 i just picked up. If it were going into 1411, maybe i'd do it like that.

Adorsey.. i'll give ya $10 as soon as i have a paypal address to send it to. Thanks!



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933052 posted 09/20/10 06:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've got this metric to -6AN fitting that will convert our factory line pre-filter to a -6 AN. You can then attach a -6 AN filter to it. This is for those that don't want to upgrade the entire line from the tank to the rail. The problem is they're $20. Still a lot cheaper than upgrading the entire line to -6 AN.




Edited by Garfield Wright (09/20/10 06:11 PM)

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
855/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933104 posted 09/20/10 09:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's what you need right thur.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

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TylerAdamson
circles method
934/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933107 posted 09/20/10 09:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You'll also need this.



1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD FP3565 Powered
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 934/1000

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Adorsey
Member +
1942/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933138 posted 09/20/10 11:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I HAVE THAT TOO!



1942/2000 DD
[email protected]
93oct b16g

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933150 posted 09/20/10 11:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Damn. I'd rather have given the money to adorsey, but i already ordered the fingercuffs fitting today.

Thanks adorsey. I've sent you the funds. I appreciate it!

Now i just have to buy the filter i want.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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Kenny_Kline
belligerent idiot
1370/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933154 posted 09/21/10 12:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      


The most serious restriction in the stock fuel system is the banjo fitting on top of the fuel filter. Convert that over to a straight fitting and you good to go support 500+hp.

But....

I wanted to be a cool kid and converted my sending unit over to a 6AN bulkhead to a 6AN teflon SS line to a fuel lap fuel filter then 6AN lines to the Fpr retaining the stock return line




Kenny @ Dynotech Tuning
[email protected]







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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933171 posted 09/21/10 02:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The 2nd photo there is pretty much what i'm doing, but with stock hardline to the filter, for now. I'll be using russell pro classic hose, though.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933221 posted 09/21/10 11:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The fitting Kenny posted will also work by converting the pinhole factory fitting to a -6AN fitting. Then all you'd need is the a -6AN pushloc fitting, ~1' -6AN pushloc hose, -6AN pushloc fitting & a -6AN rail adaptor.

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933232 posted 09/21/10 11:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It's not that much more for me to go with nicer hose and fittings. I'm not really a huge fan of "pushlock" parts. The filter i'm getting isn't as big as that one in the 2nd pic, either. That thing is huge. I'll be running the 3" filter. That looks like the 5". Seeing as how the 3" filter is rated at 200GPH, i think it should suffice. I'm also going to replace my Stillen AFPR with a Fuelab unit, for the sake of continuity and appearance.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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SleepinGVR4
What are we going to do today Ferb?
629/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933284 posted 09/21/10 03:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Garfield Wright:

I've got this metric to -6AN fitting that will convert our factory line pre-filter to a -6 AN. You can then attach a -6 AN filter to it. This is for those that don't want to upgrade the entire line from the tank to the rail. The problem is they're $20. Still a lot cheaper than upgrading the entire line to -6 AN.







Garfield,
Does the fitting you have shown have an inverted flare inside the end with the female threads?



Sean


Edited by SleepinGVR4 (09/21/10 03:10 PM)

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933302 posted 09/21/10 04:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes.

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SleepinGVR4
What are we going to do today Ferb?
629/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933309 posted 09/21/10 05:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Really?... Thats interesting. I just had to buy a Russel fitting from summit racing. Only on the inside of the end with the female threads, it didn't have an inverted flare. It was just flat on the inside. So I just used an O-ring, not the most ideal thing but it doesn't leak.

So since you are selling one of these fittings that in fact does have the inverted flare on the female thread side everyone should get their fitting from you. Because summit doesn't sell one that does, or anywhere else for that matter.

On a side note for anyone wondering this fitting will also connect to your factory sending unit and allow you to connect braided line with a female hose end on it. Granted that its -6 AN.



Sean


Edited by SleepinGVR4 (09/21/10 06:28 PM)

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933327 posted 09/21/10 06:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sean,
No one sells it because I had it made

Yes it will bolt-on to the line directly on top of the factory sending unit as well

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933332 posted 09/21/10 06:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting mitsuturbo:

It's not that much more for me to go with nicer hose and fittings. I'm not really a huge fan of "pushlock" parts. The filter i'm getting isn't as big as that one in the 2nd pic, either. That thing is huge. I'll be running the 3" filter. That looks like the 5". Seeing as how the 3" filter is rated at 200GPH, i think it should suffice. I'm also going to replace my Stillen AFPR with a Fuelab unit, for the sake of continuity and appearance.




Anthony,
We use pushlock on all the cars we do in addition to our Evo 8 999 awd hp Drag Car & don't have a problem. The nice things about them is that they're lighter than SS lines, easier to work with (i.e. you don't get poked by the ss in the tip of your fingers), no tape needed (additional cost if using ss) & the hose ends are waaaay cheaper. Once you slip the hose onto the fitting you cannot pull it off. You have to cut it off the fitting. We use them for all types of fuel, oil & air lines (valve cover breather to catch can).

They also have a nice factory look.

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SleepinGVR4
What are we going to do today Ferb?
629/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933342 posted 09/21/10 06:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Garfield Wright:

Sean,
No one sells it because I had it made

Yes it will bolt-on to the line directly on top of the factory sending unit as well




You've out done yourself!



Sean

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933390 posted 09/21/10 07:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Garfield Wright:

Quoting mitsuturbo:

It's not that much more for me to go with nicer hose and fittings. I'm not really a huge fan of "pushlock" parts. The filter i'm getting isn't as big as that one in the 2nd pic, either. That thing is huge. I'll be running the 3" filter. That looks like the 5". Seeing as how the 3" filter is rated at 200GPH, i think it should suffice. I'm also going to replace my Stillen AFPR with a Fuelab unit, for the sake of continuity and appearance.




Anthony,
We use pushlock on all the cars we do in addition to our Evo 8 999 awd hp Drag Car & don't have a problem. The nice things about them is that they're lighter than SS lines, easier to work with (i.e. you don't get poked by the ss in the tip of your fingers), no tape needed (additional cost if using ss) & the hose ends are waaaay cheaper. Once you slip the hose onto the fitting you cannot pull it off. You have to cut it off the fitting. We use them for all types of fuel, oil & air lines (valve cover breather to catch can).

They also have a nice factory look.




I realize, and concur that the SS braided lines are heavy, and totally suck. If they ever rub up against anything and part of them frays... OUCH! any time you handle said line. I've gone the pushlock route on things before, and after getting a full Russell ProClassic setup for my oil cooler lines, there's no way i'm ever going back. ABSOLUTELY the lightest lines EVER. Incredibly flexible, and incredibly strong. Sure, they cost a bit more, but i think they'll be well worth it in the long run. I do know that the pushlock hoses "work fine". I have no "complaints" with them. I just think i found something i like better, personally.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933398 posted 09/21/10 08:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I hear you bro. I was just pointing out why we use pushlock. There's a lot of options out there to choose from & obviously if you prefer one over the other go for it. That's what makes each build so unique. Everyone does it their way

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