Wiseco Spirolox
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Brianawd Higher Launch RPM 439/1000
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posted 05/10/10 09:06 PM
Quote:
We all have different goals and the stock rods will be fine for mine. What can they handle? >500 whp? I won't be close to that. Using the stock rods is not a "wrong" choice.
The 2g pistons would have been more than enough in your case then, as the 1g rod is still the weak link in a 1g/2g combo.
1992 Gaylant vr4 #439/1000 11.1at131 562awhp/484awtq
E85 FP3052 parted out
05 EB EVO SSL 11.48at124mph
450awhp/400awtq New 2.3 e85 hks 7460r
05 JEEP liberty CRD DD/ski slut
200hp/385tq
Posts: 2117 | From: Portland OR, | Member Since: 04/18/05 | IP: (32.177.61.236) |
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GVR-4 Creative Name Huh? 77/1000
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posted 05/11/10 08:02 PM
Brianawd: You're right. If I were building a 2.0, I would have used 2g pistons. But as you can see in the 2nd photo, these are stroker pistons. prove_it: I'm not sure if that was directed at me, but I have Wiseco pistons and they came with wrist pins. They fit into the stock rods properly and I have already pressed them in. I just need to take the time to center each one now. This setup will be just like the stock setup with the wrist pin pressing into the rod and floating within the piston. This is a low budget build, but don't think it isn't being done properly. For example, I had a friend of mine measure the pistons on a Zeiss CMM for roundness and diameter. He took 500 data points on the skirts. Then I took the largest diameter and added the piston-to-wall clearance and told the machinist what size to machine the block bores (3.36633"). Next week I'll have a bore gage set up to confirm the bores are the correct diameter. I did not come up with my plan for the engine build hastily. My choices are perfectly adequate for my goals.
Posts: 2599 | From: Asheville, NC USA | Member Since: 04/22/02 | IP: (66.169.85.24) |
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toybreaker  it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus 1990/2000
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posted 05/12/10 08:27 AM
Most machine shops have a little oven that we use to heat the little end of the rod. The piston is put in a fixture with an adjustable stop for the pin. The rod is heated, laid into postition against the bottom of the pin opening of the piston. The pin is dipped in oil and then the it goes in with a light push untill it bottoms against the stop.. Doing it this way ensures the pin is centered and the piston won't be subjected to the force of pressing the pin into the rod. The press fit is pretty tight, and substantial force can be required to install the pin. Doing it cold can result in distorting or even cracking the piston. In addition, the pin can get scratched/gouged as it passes thru the rod bore. Those scratches/gouges will chew up the pin bore in the piston once the engine is fired up, resulting in all sorts of problems. We also have another fixture the pistons are laid in to press the pins out at the beginning of the machining operations. It cradles the piston, spreading the load out to minumise flattening the backside of the piston pin bore, which will increase the amount of force required to drive the pin out. That's why it's best to let the machine shop to install/remove the pins when using press fit style pistons. I realise that doesn't help you now, but, Muskrat has a pretty solid idea. Quoting Muskrat:
Have you considered making a jig with a hard stop for the press?
That's good thinking right there. 
Combined with a curved fixture to lay the piston in, you should be able to reposition things slightly without any major carnage.
Posts: 3533 | From: Never Summer Ranch, Colorado | Member Since: 04/30/06 | IP: (208.54.7.141) |
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donniekak Member ++
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posted 05/12/10 10:49 AM
Quoting Muskrat:
Have you considered making a jig with a hard stop for the press?
The dimensions for this are in the 4g63 rebuild manual.
Do not use the clips with a press fit rod. If you actually pressed the pins into the rods, instead of heating the small end of the rod, you probably damaged the pistons.
Posts: 747 | From: surprise az | Member Since: 01/01/09 | IP: (72.201.136.139) |
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