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oil filter housing woes (leaks)


ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631262 posted 04/07/08 12:49 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok so I had a leak at the oil cooler lines right by the filter housing. I bought a new B&M cooler with AN fittings per this thread.

Parts arrived and I began to disasemble the old stock oil cooler. I figured while I was under there I would take care of any other leaks so I removed a AN fitting with an elbow that wasn't in use, port 3 seen in this photo. After removing it I noticed pieces of some material breaking off of the filter housing threads.

Is this material teflon paste? Its breaking up and in small pieces which I'd rather not have mixed in with my oil.

Is there any way I can get the rest of this crap out cause I'm close to just buying a new filter housing and redoing all the lines.

I've never worked with this "teflon paste" before. Edit: Actually I have but it was long ago. I figured this stuff was jb weld but wasn't absolutely psotive.

What is the consensus on regular old teflon tape for sealing up oil ports? Are there different thickness tapes? What would you guys recommend to seal up all the ports on the oil filter housing? I don't want a drop of oil on my garage floor.

Heres a photo of what I'm dealing with.



Thanks


Edited by Mike_1101 (04/15/08 01:31 AM)

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brisvr4
Oceania Distict Enforcer for the Galant VR4 Mafia


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631307 posted 04/07/08 03:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That does look like thread paste.
I don't use thread tape at all anymore, thread paste is much easier and more reliable IMHO.
If it was me I would pull the oil filter housing off the car and then clean the threads up.
That way you can port the relief valve area too



Tim
1992 Auspec
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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631604 posted 04/07/08 10:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks, I spent a lot of time today researching oil filter housing threads and found these:

click

click

Now I just need to figure out how to remove the crank pulley. Any help is greatly appreciated. Yes I searched but didn't find any specific threads on crank pulley removal. It seems that a lot of people like the fluidamper pulley but I don't think I really need one of those right now.

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BKatter
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631622 posted 04/07/08 11:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What problems are you having removing the crank pulley? As I recall, just remove the belts and the 4 bolts and it comes off.

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VR4rocks
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631641 posted 04/08/08 12:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
if it is stick use a small pry bar with gentle pressure and it should just pop off.

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boostedinaz
Fatty McButterpants
1101/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631653 posted 04/08/08 01:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If the crank pulley doesn't come off with just the 4 bolts removed you can try to pry it off, but I am not a big fan of that method and is it can help the crank pulley separate. I would just get an impact and loosen the large center bolt as the washer usually holds the pulley on.

Keep in mind you will need to remove the timing cover to get the oil filter housing on. One stupid bolt is hidden behind that cover.



Michael
The rebuild of 1101

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631712 posted 04/08/08 08:55 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Crank pulley is 4 bolts.



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631828 posted 04/08/08 01:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting UtahGalant:

What problems are you having removing the crank pulley? As I recall, just remove the belts and the 4 bolts and it comes off.




No real problems yet but I see the tdc marks on the pulley and that makes me nervous. I just want to make sure that by removing the pulley I am not disrupting timing or anything like that.

I've never had to do any crank pulley or timing work before so I am new to that part of the 4g63. I've done trans swap, head removal (but not install), replaced turbo, suspension/brakes, radiator and thermo housing, 4ws removal and other basic stuff. No real engine internal work.

Thanks for the help thus far guys. I originally intended to just upgrade the oil cooler and now I'm not feeling safe with the thread paste in the oil filter housing so I am removing that to port the relief valve and clean the thread paste out.

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Polish
Dr. Pilosh Haagenscodyberger


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631831 posted 04/08/08 01:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I doubt the paste would hurt anything.

The pulley comes on/off easy. It has a mounting dowel, you can't really do it wrong. Timing is not affected since the timing belt stays on, you are only pulling the accessory belts.



My car site
Old GVR4 #1186/2000

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number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631837 posted 04/08/08 02:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If it the port I think it is that is not thread paste. (again I am guessing here) It might be JB Weld. It never needed to come out ever again so I used a little to "glue" in the fitting so that I would be sure it would not back out. I would clean it out to be safe.

I used only white teflon tape to seal any fitting that would need to be removed in the future.

The OEM 1G air oil cooler on the car was brand new when I installed it. Why are you 'upgrading' it? The oil temps were never a problem, even on the track.

You can paint the car neon green if you want to. Just curious?



Harry
Three-speed.com
---------------------------
Pictures here

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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 631920 posted 04/08/08 05:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Polish, thanks.

Harry,

From what I can see there is an oil leak coming from the oil cooler lines. The actual oil cooler itself seemed to be fine.

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grocery_getter
Senior Crab
836/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632002 posted 04/08/08 09:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Teflon tape is for plumbing pipes and threads at home, for automotive use please use teflon paste. Teflon tape will break into little pieces and get stuck everywhere.

Use a piece of teflon tape on your fuel system and have a piece of it came off and get stuck INSIDE your fuel injector.

Use a piece of teflon ape on your fuel system and have a piece of it came off and get stuck in your main or rod bearing.

PLEASE dont use teflon tape on any of the critical oil, fuel or water connection on your car.

I use Staybond S592 for this purposes. It is pipe sealant with teflon. It also resists oil and solvent. click

AN fittings will need no sealant, because it seals on the taper of the fitting.
NPT or other taper thread fittings seals on the tapers and will usually benefit from pipe sealant on threads.
Metric or Standard straight thread will seal on the face of the fitting and will need a washers.

Please use the right way of sealing the different fittings and connections.



Andre
836/2000
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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632025 posted 04/08/08 10:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks Andre.

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Qship
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632140 posted 04/09/08 06:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^^ +1. I left my fuel fittings bare due to what I'd heard about the tape, but had to really torque them to stop them from leaking (no one I asked knew what else to use besides tape). Now I know better and can do the job right.

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number3
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632367 posted 04/09/08 05:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
He is right, however, the key to tape is which direction and how far up the thread it is applied.

Yes, paste is more foolproof and 'more correct' for EVERYONE to use, just like you shouldn't use you mouth to syphon gas either.



Harry
Three-speed.com
---------------------------
Pictures here

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grocery_getter
Senior Crab
836/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632371 posted 04/09/08 05:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Harry, I bought my brake cleaner fluid by the drums and used to have to suck the hose it with mouth as well. It burns your mouth inner skin when you have a mouthful of brake cleaner. That is until I finally rigged a fuel pump on a long metal rod and use that to lower the pump down the barrel and use it to pump the fluid out from the drum.

It burns your mouth worse than gasoline.



Andre
836/2000
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Brianawd
Higher Launch RPM
439/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632398 posted 04/09/08 06:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

It burns your mouth worse than gasoline.






Think thats bad. Spray some on your balls. Shit burns so bad. When I was working at the dealer ship, we used to spray each other in the ball with brake cleaner when your were not looking.



1992 Gaylant vr4 #439/1000
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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632446 posted 04/09/08 08:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You guys worked at the dealer naked?

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632490 posted 04/09/08 11:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
wat



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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toybreaker Galant VR4.org Moderator
it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus
1990/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632686 posted 04/10/08 01:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

When I was working at the dealer ship, we used to spray each other in the ball with brake cleaner when your were not looking.




I used to drill a very small hole on the backside of the spray nozzle...

That put an end to that kind of horseplay.

We then moved on to other shenanigans...



the bitterness of low quality remains long after the temporary joy of a low price has faded


Edited by Toybreaker (04/10/08 01:57 PM)

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toybreaker Galant VR4.org Moderator
it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus
1990/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 632693 posted 04/10/08 02:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
On Topic,

I like to use a drop of purple (extra low strength) loctite on the banjo bolts, to keep them up and tight.

A single drop on the copper washers doesn't hurt either.

The purple lock tite is the shit for sealing up fluid systems. It will seal irregularaties, and will still allow you to remove the fittings easily if you need to service the system again.

On the tapered plugs that go into the housing, I like teflon paste.

If you stick the plug on an allen wrench (socket style), and then paint the plug thoroughtly, leaving the end threads (towards the housing) dry. That way, no paste will go into the housing, and they'll be some where you need it to seal any irregularities in the threads.

Wipe off the excess when you get the plug in and tight, and you should be good to go.

Please note: the teflon in the paste will make the plug easier to turn, and you can crack the housing (with the taper on the plug) by overtightening things.

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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 638412 posted 04/23/08 10:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok guys I'm having some trouble with the oil pressure gauge fitting that screws into the oil filter housing. Port 2 seen here.

I went to the auto parts store yesterday and picked up two of these fittings. The guy said they are tapered. Whatever that means. These little suckers will not screw into the housing. What am I doing wrong? Is there a coarse thread version and a fine thread version of these things? FWIW they are not autometer brand even though the gauge and other fittings are autometer.

You can see in this photo how I rounded the old one off trying to get it out. I take it they are not meant to come out once they are in.



Heres the fittings, I'm using the paste that you recommended, Andre.



Heres the new OFH on:



Yes I used red loctite on the oil light sending unit. Let me know if this will be a problem but it went in pretty tight.

I just need to get this fitting in and put together the AN fittings and SS lines and then the bumper can go back on.

I also ported the relief valve. I didn't go crazy on it, just enough to make a bit of difference. After I ported it I filed it smooth with 1500 grit sandpaper wrapped around a bic pen.



If you guys see anything that looks out of place, please let me know. Sorry for the long post, just wanna make sure I cover everything.

Thanks

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number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 638423 posted 04/23/08 10:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Do you like how I highlighted the timing marks with white-out. CUSTOM baby!



Harry
Three-speed.com
---------------------------
Pictures here

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Qship
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 638528 posted 04/24/08 08:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sorry for thread jacking, Mike, but damn that's awesome, Harry! I'm going to have to do that; reading that thing is a pain in the @$$. Do you just fill in all the marks w/the white out and then sand the rest of the surface clean, or did you use one of those whiteout pens?

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
855/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 638537 posted 04/24/08 09:13 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
The portion he marked is raised, not recessed. I have done this for years on my cars, both painting the timing marks and the groove in the pulley with silver or white paint.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
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