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Re: Crankwalk?


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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1212597 posted 07/17/15 10:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I might still have a set of ARP factory rod bolts if your interested. BNIB. You'd have to have them pressed out and pressed in, but wouldn't be a bad idea for less than 100 bucks total.

PM if interested and I'll check my stash.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1212606 posted 07/17/15 11:41 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You have to resize the rods in that case. At least old school motors were that way. I am assuming they would at the very least have to be checked,
but I can almost guarantee a machinist will say they have to be resized when the bolts are changed out to non-factory types.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1212607 posted 07/17/15 11:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you go to ARPS, you have to have the line honed to size once torqued to spec as they will be oblong as they compress



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1212636 posted 07/17/15 04:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not pulling the pistons out of the bores. The rod bolts stay.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1212786 posted 07/20/15 06:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I wouldn't worry about stretching the rod bolts either. Rod bolts are pretty resilient, and would be the last likely cause IMO to cause a spun rod bearing.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213026 posted 07/22/15 12:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just an update on 631:
Crank #2 is polished, I have another new lower gasket "conversion" set as they call it, and the Sealed Power main and rod bearings arrived on Monday. All I need to get for it now is the time. It has the ultra plush, smooth running, noise free, helical cut oil pump in there. Maybe that's why it tore up the bearing. LOL
I'm also thinking that I should take a closer look at the oil filter housing to make sure it wasn't ported for some stupid reason.



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Edited by Coltsfan (07/22/15 12:35 PM)

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213027 posted 07/22/15 12:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Why would you say some dumb reason? If it's ported that's great news. Stock wise they have issues with OVER pressurization. If it's ported, it's not going to lower the pressure to unsafe levels. The regulating spring controls that, if the spring is bad or been cut, then that's an issue, but not porting it.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213029 posted 07/22/15 01:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ported filter housing are bad news. As well as cut springs. We do everything we can to get as much oil pressure as we can. Why that fad ever took of I don't know. We have never had over oiling issues in anything that we do. We have different needs as all of ours cars tend to live most of their time under heavy loads and high rpms.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213031 posted 07/22/15 01:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thus the difference. On a BSE car I have seen the resulting high cold oil pressure blow off an oil filter on a street car.

Pained me to do mine when I did, but I didn't like 110 psi either, as extremely high oil pressure can wash out bearings.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213033 posted 07/22/15 01:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
A ported housing will still hold 90psi at redline, how is it bad news? That's like saying too big of a fuel return line will drop fuel pressure.

Cut regulator springs, yes, very bad. Ported housing, good, allows for proper oiling in the system. You CAN have too high of pressure without a BSE, pending on oil weight and bearing clearances.

BSE or not, a ported housing can only aid in proper oil pressure control.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213038 posted 07/22/15 02:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
We run looser oil clearances than anyone here ever would.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213040 posted 07/22/15 02:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What kind of clearances and why?



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donniekak
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213056 posted 07/22/15 07:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Larger bearing clearance supports more power up to a point. The .0008"-.002" called for in the manual is to tight for a race engine. It's one of the reasons acl sells bearings with .001" extra clearance.

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213057 posted 07/22/15 07:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
At what power levels do you consider it a "race" engine? When I used the ACL bearings with the extra .001", my clearances came out to a perfect .002" on all mains and rods. I'm only hitting 400 crank, so I know it's fine, but at what point do you consider it necessary to go bigger?

At .002" with and BSE, I had to port the OFH due to seeing around 120psi at redline. Now it's a good 90psi max.

Other thing I've been thinking about is the use of revised lifters and how much more oil the flow. Does this drop oil pressure?


Sorry for Hi-jacking, I just love chatting about this stuff. Plus it is related....



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213083 posted 07/23/15 08:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oil flow increases(to the rockers), pressure drops(everywhere) with the revised lifters. Depending on the cars needs, we run .0025-.003" on the mains and .0025-.0035" on the rod bearings. We accomplish this by machining the crank.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213085 posted 07/23/15 08:15 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What's your thought on the newish debate that using small port lifters is better as they allow more oil to be kept in the oil pan, since less oil it being dumped into the head?



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213089 posted 07/23/15 09:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I am not afraid to run either lifter. If a lifter is causing you to have oiling issues you have bigger problems. I run 8.5qts of oil in my engine, so I don't really have those issues. Homemade oil pan and large oil cooler. I have large lifters in my current engine.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213091 posted 07/23/15 09:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's one thing been working on figuring out. I burned a couple bearings from starvation after some long high rpm driving. Theory is that oil wasn't returning fast enough to the pan. I want to pull the head and clean up the drains. Been finding info on ways to get oil back to the pan faster.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213093 posted 07/23/15 09:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
We run more rpms longer than anyone around. We never have any issues. A baffled pan and a whole lot of oil has cured any issues. If your machine work is right, that is most of the battle. A road course car could have more issues. If you keep the pan full and the oil cool, I don't see how it could fail.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213265 posted 07/26/15 02:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If your worried about excess oil dumping in the head wouldn't the kiggly hla regulator be more effective?



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213309 posted 07/27/15 08:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's one option. Just be reading back and forth arguements about using the 1mm hole lifters for race engines to limit the amount of oil that's dumped in the head.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213338 posted 07/27/15 11:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Most of our cars run the stock regulator withthout any issue.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213493 posted 07/29/15 10:14 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think the lifter debate is interesting, and wonder if they hurt oil pressure much at idle speed. You would think some testing must have gone into developing the revised lifters.
Anyways, I've been driving 631 for a couple days now and a funny thing happened on the first drive. It was about 89 degrees out at the time, and I drove it into the city to buy parts at a local chain for another vehicle. It was about a 15-20 minute drive, almost all thruway. I had forgotten to set the base ignition timing, and the pusher fan was not functioning, so I was forced to pump the refrigerant back into the system with a compressor.

On the way there cruising at 65 the A/C was reasonably cool for such a hot and humid day. When I got off the thruway and stopped at a light, the dreaded oil lamp started flickering. At this point I thought, splendid! I looked at the temp gauge and it was at 3/4 at least.

Oh, my customer just pulled up. more later...



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90 AWD Colt Hatchback ----------Fun car
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213520 posted 07/29/15 03:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That was with synthetic 10W30. I let the engine cool for a half hour or so, drove it back with he A/C off, fixed the fan, set the timing, and installed a mechanical pressure gauge. Since then, the temp has stayed in the center, and the oil pressure has never dropped below 12psi while idling hot. Not sure if 10W40 would be a better match, or maybe 15W40, or maybe it's okay how it is.



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tektic
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213530 posted 07/29/15 06:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I had the large port lifters last build, this time i now have double revised lifters with a slightly smaller than the huge ones. I currently have my oil cooler ports pluged, but otherwise its the exact same oil and setup. 10w-30 Joe gibbs hotrod oil. My pressure at idle now is about 23psi before it was around 11.

Now that I think about it I smoothed out the oil ports on the block and pump housing. I'm using a new Hyundai oil pump and gears too.

The idle pressure is much higher now than it was.

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