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Re: 4 bolt install/4ws removal, w/ pics


GVR-4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 232915 posted 07/03/05 09:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just did the AWS removal about a week ago and I wanted to point out that the oil pan plugs used to plug the front rack don't work. Or at least they didn't work for me. Even with copper crush washers, they leaked like mad. That connection is not designed to seal on the face where the copper crush washer makes contact.



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Dave Peter

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Muskrat
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 234121 posted 07/07/05 09:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think it's hit or miss with this, as some people swear by it, others have problems. Myself, I'm using one oil dran plug and one I had welded shut because the plug wouldn't fit. I'd say welding it would be the bes bet, and it's so small a job if you go to an industrial place they'll probably do it for free.



Brian L.
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Sidewayz
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 265050 posted 10/07/05 04:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My question, as newb as it is... When the rear rack is removed, how come the wheels dont wander back in forth, im assuming that tey arent locked in place, basically a scaled down version of the front.

I blew a rear p.s line, so will be doing this job soon

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 266083 posted 10/11/05 03:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
With the rear rack removed, the rear suspension converts to the T/E/L style "active toe" and allows it to flex. Essentially, the rack only puts pressure against rubber bushings for the 1.5* worth of angle.

If that answers the question.



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sleepyvr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 282289 posted 12/05/05 10:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was told you needed to cut some threads off one of the bolts to make them work, and you do if you are relying on the crush washer making contact to seal the hole, as the bolt that needs cut bottoms out before the crush washer and head of the bolt make contact. Some members of the board have not had luck trying to seal it like this.

I didn't cut the threads down, i simply gobbed up both bolts with 5 minute JB weld and it is leak free.

Easiest successful block:

Use oil pan bolts and JB Weld to block off 4ws lines

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liquidgvr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 290326 posted 01/02/06 04:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've recently decided to switch to the 4 bolt rear and eliminate the rear steering. I took my rack out the front and had it rebuilt when I installed that group buy frt & rear sway bars because it was leaking. I can't remember (I'd assume so) but I thought the inside of the ports going to the lines for the aws were inverted flare inside the openings. Has anyone tried a Hydraulic supplier to see if they have a plug that will match the inverted flare to seal properly?

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GolfBall
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 951967 posted 11/23/10 11:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting slugsgomoo:

With the rear rack removed, the rear suspension converts to the T/E/L style "active toe" and allows it to flex. Essentially, the rack only puts pressure against rubber bushings for the 1.5* worth of angle.

If that answers the question.




so you with the rear steer removed the rear wheels are still moving 1.5 worth of angle. that seems bad to me. cant you lock it down somehow?



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moduleunknown
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 965935 posted 01/27/11 05:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Yes, you can eliminate the active rear toe.

click



'91 GVR4 777/2000

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