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Re: Battery Relocation to Trunk


blacksheep
Baraqsheep
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109062 posted 03/15/04 07:30 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hertz, pull the seat back off and go down the bottom side of it...There is a hole back there that is a pass-thru covered with factory sound-deadening as well.

Fine - I will post a pic for ya tonite !

I havent run wires yet. I need to run wires for my amp and speakers and do some sound deadening stuff. I want the car to be as quite as a church.

Check car stereo places for the terminals.

I got a 120A breaker and 2 gold-plated battery terminals from ebay. The + side of the terminal has a 1/2 gauge input and a 2 8 gauge outputs from my fuel pump and amp.

I may put a distribution block up front for the proposed HID's and the under-hood crap! [Big Grin]

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109063 posted 03/15/04 07:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Hertz:
Okay, I got the wire threaded through into the car, and I follow that nice little passthough in the forward seat rail -- now, how do I get around the seatbelt (auto) behind the passenger seat? I want to go over it (easy) but it looks like it could interfere with the belt. Anyone go under it? [Wink]

Ryan,

I actually snaked mine under the seatbelt, and if I remember correctly, between the where the B-pillar attaches to the floor and the rocker panel. May have had to unbolt the belt lower section to make that happen. I also used that plastic cover under the rear seat to route the cable under for protection at the rear seat ledge.

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DarkDevilMMM
if I want a potential headache, I rather just get another GVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109064 posted 03/15/04 08:15 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
there is a cover on the seat belt, you can pull the cover off and go around from there....

but I got another question for u guys, for the battery holder in the trunk, did u guys weld the holder to the trunk? or bolt it? which bolt? did u guys drill holes for the bolt? and what kind of battery holder are u guys using? easy to install? part number? thanks.

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
OneTitle to rule them all.
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109065 posted 03/15/04 09:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm going (for now) the non-track-legal way. I've got a heavy plywood perch (glued, screwed and lagged) and then bolted to the trunk at the bumper mounts. The perch is cut-to-fit for that area, so it is also snugged in. It cantalevers over the bottomless pit above the muffler -- sitting on the housing for the side marker.

Imagine this battery tucked back more towards the fender. (this is Marks car, just as a reference)
 -

The box is of the heavy PVC variety and is unfortunately only held down by the usual nylon strapping. The whole box also wedges into position, but could use some more lateral holding. The two plastic "bridges" for the nylon strap is not quite engineered enough for me, however the wood base is very stout. Eventually I'll go the sealed metal box route, perhaps like Mark's though the wood probably isn't regulation it will make a good template to fab up a metal version.

I got the zero gauge cabling (welding), grommets and clips, split loom, battery connectors, 4 terminals (attached on ends), and box for something like $40 on eBay.

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109066 posted 03/15/04 01:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
DarkDevilMMM:

My tray is held down to the floor of the trunk where you see it with four bolts. There are washers and nuts on the underside of the car. From there J-bolts hold the battery down to the tray. It's not NHRA legal as it sits. I just need to fab up a box, hold it down the same way I have the current tray held down and then use 3/8" rod to secure the battery to the box. So far the tech guys at my local track have let me slide but that was last year. They told me that by this year I better have something more legal. [Smile]

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Northern
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109067 posted 03/15/04 02:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I actually have gone without a battery box. I scrapped the plastic one in my pictures and replaced it with an Optima Red Top (same as turbowop's). The positive battery cable I ran is the right size where it holds the battery in place, close to the back of the rear seats. Hasn't moved around on me yet.

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forgottenvr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109068 posted 03/16/04 10:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey Hertz or Turbowap, could one of you guys post a pic of how the cables are connected to the original harnesses in the engine area and how you secured them? Appreciate it. Thanks.

Aaron
[We're Not Worthy] [We're Not Worthy] [We're Not Worthy]

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bob in chicago
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109069 posted 03/16/04 04:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here's a photo of how I did it. the red cable is the one from the battery. The cable is secured with a big black tie-wrap to something under the fuses/relay box.
 -

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Minjin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109070 posted 03/16/04 05:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My setup looks similar and I've never been happy with it. I'd like to replace that black battery post fuse box with a distribution block and fuses. However, with the range of fuses, I can't find one size that can do it all. For instance, we have a high one (100 amp for alt I think) and one around 15 or so. There simply isn't any one fuse size that has that kind of range. I've love to use the standard blade type, but they only go up to 35 or so. The next size bigger, those maxi ones, still won't do it all. And when you get to the next size bigger, it won't do the low amp sizes. I don't remember numbers and details but you get the idea.

If someone comes up with a good clean setup, let me know as I'd like to see it. It would be nice if it had a charging post too.

Mark

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number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109071 posted 03/16/04 06:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
From above...



From the side...



Wider top shot...



Please click on each shot for a bigger image.

I hope this helps.

Harry


Edited by Hertz (03/09/07 03:42 PM)

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Minjin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109072 posted 03/16/04 06:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Harry, the bolt method is exactly how mine is as well. Only difference is that I have black electrical tape around mine so that errant tools don't burn my car down... [Wink]

Mark

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
OneTitle to rule them all.
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109073 posted 03/16/04 09:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
In that middle picture:
clicky


the middle wire (to alternator?) I broke the terminal off... the copper end was very thin and had a crack across the bend (which came all the way off).

It looks like Harry may have redone his. I bought a 0 gauge terminal end (set-screw type)... am I correct in thinking I can just peel back the boot, maybe pry off the existing crimp-on and re-attach this terminal?

The end on the fuse box (also looks to me like Harry replaced his, unless 92's are different) is about to suffer the same fate, it is missing the tabs on the sides of the terminal, the material is copper, edges are rounded and it looks like it is getting thinner!


Edited by Hertz (03/09/07 03:41 PM)

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blacksheep
Baraqsheep
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109074 posted 03/17/04 01:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hertz - where exactly did it break off? If the seperate wire that goes to the battery terminal broke off, yeah you could just replace the end connector. If its At the bottom of the fuse box, You can take that fuse box fully apart, read below! You need to buy yourself a digital camera, fou! [Wink]

Mark - I am with you here. I wanna use an inline fuse as well.

I tried to re-do this auxillary fuse box in vain when I was re-wiring the battery to trunk. I dont have manual seat belts or ABS, so I pulled 3 of the 4 fuses out. All that remains is a 100A fuse under alternator.

So, for shits and giggles, I took that fuse box apart and unscrewed the terminals on the ABS (red positive and white negative). The car would not start. Basically, without the red and white connected although it was marked ABS. No fuse there. No idea why? anyone?

On the 100A middle one, there is a mess of wires running to it including another red,white and blue wire, I didnt wanna mess with it. I will have someone who can tell me help me do this better.

IMHO, the whole harness will need taken apart to figure out exactly where each wire goes unless someone can decipher what all those wires are.

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BoostedVR4
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109075 posted 03/24/04 01:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
i also relocated my battery to the trunk. used a fused block in the front but had to also use a breaker 100amp for alt. i used 3 60amp fuses (best i could do) at first i had the alt with a 60 amp fuse but once winter hit i kept blowing the fuse. i have been having problems with the starting of the car and i suspected that the bumper bolt i am using is no good, and a previous post confirms it. i will use the strut bolt. good thing i searched and found this thread. Thanks guys for you help. poked a hole through the rubber part of the steering column (couldn't find a better route at the time). and ran the wire underneath the seat belt pillar. and have a 120 amp breaker near the battery. hope this helped a bit. Thanks again

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109076 posted 03/24/04 07:46 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I replaced my broken alt wire terminal (I mentioned above) with a new 0-gauge terminal. First I hacked off the end (-3 inches) with a coping saw... I was surprised to find that the corrosion (or whatever it is called) had made its way down that far. You know, that white powdery mess. The copper strands of the wire looked good, but a little discolored. I spent a few minutes trying to clean up the wire. I have not yet started the car, so I don't know if I'm going to get charging voltage or not. I assume so. [Smile]

I took some pics of my install and will post when I get them developed.

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109077 posted 04/08/04 07:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So here it is. Months of planning, measuring, tweaking cardboard mock-ups and parts gathering. The ultimate goal was to keep a stock appearance (minus the ricer blue wire loom) and to maximize the limited trunk space by utilizing that void. Solution? Build a bridge. It may not look it in the pics, but the battery mount is very, very stout... just not NHRA legal. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="images/graemlins/smile.gif" />

Mounting platform tucked back to the fender wall. Lots of screws, bolts and wood.

underhood wiring and some fresh paint. Ignore the MAFT, I decided to wait for my upgrade chip and may wire it in-cabin.

Put together in a semi-stock configuration. (Note the rewire on the coolant temp sensor plug!)

Circuit breaker mounted and ground attached, fuel pump wire attached, battery in box and strapped in.

All tucked in, carpet and panel are held in place with velcro.

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G Galant VR4.org Moderator
JDM Unit
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109078 posted 04/08/04 08:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
www.partsexpress.com

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
Senior Ricer
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109079 posted 04/08/04 09:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
quote:
Originally posted by G-UNIT:
www.partsexpress.com

Please, tell us what that link is for specifically. I don't get it and I NEED to make mine NHRA legal or at least appear to be before e-town in two weeks.

John

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