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AFPR testing

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
I'd like to run this by everyone to make sure I'm doing this right.

I just finished installing my Full Throttle AFPR... I ran the fuel pump with the logger and adjusted the reg until I could get it to hold at 43psi with the pump running. When I stop the pump pressure bleeds off every second like: 26,13,8,6,5,4... Does that seem right or am I leaking somewhere? (AFPR is clean, no leaks)

Will I be okay with 43psi base, having 450cc injectors, stock intake (screw not backed out), rewired stock pump (for tonight at least). My trims used to be 105,110,110 or thereabouts and I routinely could hit 100%+ duty cycle.

Thanks in advance!
 

leak at the stock o-ring (tank fuel pump) is my guess. Mine drops after you shut it off but very slowly over an hour or so
 

KenGVR4

Well-known member
Joined
May 13, 2001
Messages
278
Location
Seattle, WA
Most aftermarket fuel pressure regulators will bleed off pressure fairly quickly. It's not a big deal, you'll probably notice it takes a bit more cranking to get the motor started though.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
quote:Originally posted by KenGVR4:
Most aftermarket fuel pressure regulators will bleed off pressure fairly quickly. It's not a big deal, you'll probably notice it takes a bit more cranking to get the motor started though. Same here, I am using a Kirban Billet AFPR.

John

[ 03-28-2004, 10:44 AM: Message edited by: atc250r ]
 

a_santos

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2002
Messages
2,057
Location
San Diego, CA, USA
I had my fuel pressure at 43 with the car running. My car was running rich, so I turned it down to 37-38. My car takes a bit more cranking to start, since I installed the Aeromotive FPR. No big deal though.
 

You need to set the base with the vacuum hose disconnected, if the car is running, the vaccum will lower the pressure.
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
It could very well be leaking at the pump, but the good news is I'm replacing it, perhaps tonight. It's my second attempt at this (first pump was DOA) so it should go really fast. I imagine that removing the stock pump and then putting it back in didn't help much.
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Yes, I know the vac line needs to be disconnected (if the engine is running), see I ran the pump with the car off. No need to remove the line.
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quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
I ran the fuel pump with the logger...It might be the AFPR releasing fast, but it didn't always seem consistent, almost like the more pressure, the faster it would release. Though it did pressurize failry quickly... before the AFPR I never really had any priming issues. I haven't started the car yet.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
Finally started the car after nearly 2 weeks. She fired right up... was running a little lean, but nothing crazy. This is all after a battery relocate, coolant temp sensor rewire and AFPR install.
grin.gif
There did not seem to be any pressure problems and the pressure subsided much slower than when I was testing it initially.

...still much more on the to-do list.
 

You guys know I have the Kirban for which the Full Throttle is familiar. One of the first things I noticed is that it bleeds off fuel pressure. The stock FPR would hold the pressure for many hours. No worries, what it does when running is what is important.
 

The fix for the slow starting is a timed relay running off switched ignition like every other normal vehicle on the planet.
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
I was looking for Paul Mc's post on his install, but I guess my own is a good place to put these...

Funky adapter plate installed
after having lost one screw and purchasing a new set. Minor grinding was required for a good fit. The sparking dust is some aluminum particles. The rag is a must if you don't want to lose any more screws. (Duh) Yes, the spark plug boot is a little close.

AFPR installed, no gauge.
I only needed to buy one extra elbow to get a good angle on the gauge. Used PTFE tape... The supplied elbow was used to angle the supply nipple towards the hose. It honestly took me 15 minutes to figure out how this thing should be set up.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

AFPR installed w/ Jeg's gauge
which was $20 plus $10 shipping, for which I now have two Jeg's decals and receive a catalog of parts I can't use every month.

Oh yeah, I also replaced my ground wires with some stuff I had laying around. (right-hand side, off back of manifold)
 
Last edited:

quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
My trims used to be 105,110,110 or thereabouts and I routinely could hit 100%+ duty cycle.

Thanks in advance!
100% IDC, but what software were you logging with? I have found that DSM Logger has a glitch in the IDC % and will spike sometimes up to 30% more than actual IDC
MMCD does not have this problem
 

quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
I was looking for Paul Mc's post on his install, but I guess my own is a good place to put these...Selfish bastard.
tongue.gif


quote:The rag is a must if you don't want to lose any more screws. (Duh) Great idea...wish I thought of it.
applause.gif
I hate that hole.

quote:I only needed to buy one extra elbow to get a good angle on the gauge.Others have done it with one as well. I just couldn't make my gauge clear the regulator without two.
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quote:It honestly took me 15 minutes to figure out how this thing should be set up.
ugh.gif
Stupid bastard.
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quote:AFPR installed w/ Jeg's gauge which was $20 plus $10 shipping, for which I now have two Jeg's decals
confused.gif
and receive a catalog of parts I can't use every month.
No, no, no, Jegs has FREE shipping. That was a $10 handeling fee. Just read there weekly e-mail, it will tell you.
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I'm glad to see you got it up and running. Good work. I hope I was at least a little help. It was nice to give a little knowledge back for a change.
worthy.gif
 
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