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what to drop off at machine shop

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
ok so this thread is a bit diffrent then the n9ormal what to have done at the machine shop threads
i on the other hands dont know what to say to them should i just go down and give them my bare block or should i give them an assembled bottom end that needs rebuilding, also the same thing with the head..

my main question is will i pay alot more if they have to tear down the rest of the block, am i better off just tearing down the rest and bringing them every piece AND HAVE THEM INSPECT/CLEAN ALL THE PARTS( I CAN SEE THAT GETTING DAMN EXPENSIVE FOR a stock 6 bolt rebuild.) the pistons still look fine and same with the valves

ALS0 IM GOING TO READ THE MANUAL NOW ABOUT REBUILDING THE ENGINE.

should i teardown and inspect each part myself?
 

Barnes

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
What engine are you rebuilding? I thought your car was completely put together.
 

Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Looks like he tuned to far and his motor couldn't take it.
 

boostedinaz

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Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
^^^

So much for his "friend" that was going to tune it and all the advice that was given to him. I have no doubt this thread will meet the same fate and fall on deaf ears.
 
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yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
ahh u guys are mean!!!!!!!

damn son let me get a RESPONSE IN...


yes my car is working perfectly fine and ive been AlOT BETTER OFF TEACHING MY SELF TO TUNE AS I GET 0 KNOCK NOW AT WOT AT 14PSI I RUN 14* OF TIMING AT REDLINE OPPOSED TO THE 18* THE FACTORY MAPS ARE AT...( main reason i dont have my "friend" come teach me how to tune is because im broke, now fine tuning IS A different story,once im running e85 and 35psi THEN I WILL HAVE TUNED AT RRE BY SCOTT I JUST MET HIM AT MOD AND HE LOVES THE GVR4'S, and is a pretty cool dude

ALSO THOUGHT I SHOULD THROW IN THAT I BOUGHT THAT 1G AWHILE AGO FOR 500$ AND HAVE BEEN AFRAID TO SPEAK OF it on this website. but i bought it and the only thing wrong was a cracked oil filter housing causing coolant/oil to mix...

AND ive learned alot just being thrown into it but i learned most of it rebuilding my friends gsx( and this website of course), I have been rebuilding it since hes got work but hes paying me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif(ALSO I HEAR AND LISTEN AND RE-READ EVERYTHING ANYBODY SAYS ON THIS WEBSITE) BUT i am a visual learner and it takes me to read something over and over before the concept clicks in my head

ANYWAYS BACK TO THE THREAD i have a complete long-block in my room that i have torn down and i want to rebuild it for the KNOWLEDGE and for my 1g that will soon be a daily driver for my gf, also after the engines pulled out of my 1g and the fresh one is put in, ill be rebuilding that one to go into my GVR4 also i have a bare 6bolt block along with the long block chilling in my room.

thanks for any advice
Colin.
 

Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Not hassling you, Colin.

Take the bare block down to the shop, if its apart, have them Extrude hone and clean the walls of the block... crosshatches mean a lot of love.

Do the basics and you should be fine, if the head is going to be redone have it media blasted and cleaned out thoroughly with compressed air to get all the left over media out.

If its all bare it should be cheaper as their is less labor into the project to have it dismantled at the shop and pay their hourly.

Dont get discouraged. Its a part of life here.
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
so i can tell the machine shop to do all of the above and they wont look at me like i am retarded right? also would they know to do anything if i didnt tell them like could they examine the block and head for me and tell me what needs to be done? ( i would rather tell them but just asking )

ALSO SHOULD I REPLACE THE FREEZE PLUGS?
 
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Diego

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Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Always replace those... they can come loose and that would be a disaster...

Some people live for a regular valve job, some want a 3-angle some want a 5-angle... some shops say it isnt needed, some recommend doing it... its all on personal taste, style, functionality, and price.
 

belize1334

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Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,317
Location
Bozeman, MT
If it's a shop that mostly does older domestic engines they may not get it right but if they're used to imports you're probably fine.

But, just to be on the safe side,
* Buy a rebuild kit from a reputable vendor and then just deliver that with the engine when it's time to be built.
* Make sure they've prepped the block before you buy cylinders so that you know what size to get.
* If they tell you that your crank needs cut then tell them you'll find another instead 'cause the nitride coating doesn't take kindly to undercutting.
* Make sure they check the head and upper deck for flatness and give it a nice smooth mirror finish. It's not like an old chevy that wants a rough surface for the HG.
* And ask them specifically to tell you if they need to overbore the cylinders 'cause you'll want a torque plate in that case and unless they've done alot of these motors they won't have one.
* And if you're putting in non-OEM hardware (i.e. ARP rod or main bolts/studs) request that they line-hone the associated parts.
* It's probably also a good idea to lend them a copy of your service manual so that they can use it as a reference for tolerances.

Otherwise, if you're not shooting for big power, just have them clean it up and assemble it...
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
That's some good info.
The shops said to be very good with the 4g63 by everyone down here in san Diego its am import machine shop I'm pretty sure called hopsing.

Also I'm NOT SHOOTING for big power so could I go to the shop with both the head and block (block diassembled) and ask them to check every thing for spec. And then just pick it up and reassemble my self if that would be a lot cheaper I'm trying to do this rebuild with bare minimum $

But the machine shop will replace the freeze plug for free don't they?

But let me make a list of what to do since I can't totally comprehend that list yet.

*Have block cleaned and check to spec and then do the nescessary boring or whatever to get it to spec.

*have pistons and rods checked to spec
* get crank shaft check to spec

What about crank shaft journals and bearings do I just buy new bearings?
 
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toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
... don't use bongwater to clean any of the parts /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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Diego

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Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
^ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif it will definatly rust your stuff and give it a god awful smell of dirty nasty resin..
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
so i talked with a friend in PERSON and he told me i can literally take the assembled bottom end to the shop and tell him i'm building this motor WHAT DO YOU NEED (pistons,crank, etc.)

same with the head
is this correct the guy should know exactly what to do?
I just don't want to overpay or not pay enough and not have the right sh*t done.
sorry for the stupid questions just trying to clarify?

please don't flame my ass /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 
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