coyotes
Well-known member
Mine is hot as hell. One of the warmest heaters of any car I've owned.
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Vent Temps
- Thread starterBoostedAWD91
- Start date
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
yeah pretty much the radiator is my last option, its the only thing that i haven't replaced and it needs replaced anyways. I wouldnt think it would make that much of a difference but who knows. I currently have the Afco Scirocco radiator which has given me nothing but problems since i bought it so i really don't wanna get another one.
Since i have my intercooler piping all setup for the afco radiator which sits back in flush under the support, I just have to figure out another radiator with the same dimensions and no radiator cap.
Since i have my intercooler piping all setup for the afco radiator which sits back in flush under the support, I just have to figure out another radiator with the same dimensions and no radiator cap.
Last edited:
coyotes
Well-known member
maybe your cooling system is TOO efficient.
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
Yea that's definitely not the case
FlyingEagle
Staff member
If the radiator is leaking, you have air in the system. Only a matter of time before it sits in the core.
Rev the motor to 3000+ RPM and hold it, does the air get hot and stay hot?
Bring it back down to idle, and it gets cooler, considerably?
There is a great kit available at a very low price that can help with bleeding your coolant system.
click
Don't leave home without it!
Either way, you have to fix your leak, and also be sure to use a 195 degree or "whatever stock degree" thermostat, as indicated by the OEM.
I bleed like 3 cars a week in this season (along with exchanging the coolant), and the only way to eliminate the air bubbles is to surge the system by keeping your revs up in the area beyond normal driving operation; 2500/3000RPM+. I keep the motor revved for 30 seconds at a time, and then idle, I go back to the engine, squeeze rad hoses and watch the air come bubbling up.
You have to be careful as you get the engine hotter, because once the thermostat opens, it can be a mini-geyser inside the yellow bucket!!!! Be Warned!!! Scolding coolant is bad!!!
So, cycle the engine once it gets up near warm and even keep the revs at a minimum 3000 RPM, and pulse the throttle up to 4000 RPM, and let it back down to 3000 RPM. You get the system pulsing the coolant and from what I figure, creating "waves" in the system. Once you notice that no more bubbles are coming out, and the thermostat has opened a few times, cooling fans are operating at proper temps too, then you should have scolding heat at the vents. If you do not, you have mode door issues, or something is not right in the heater core supply department I figure.
I have bled OEM's where they clearly state this similar type of process, to bleed their system of air in the heater core. You would not believe how high the mount the heater core hoses compared to the height of the rad caps in some systems. Ease of repair is good, but you have to know why you have no flow. You've replaced the parts likely to fail or clog, now you have to confirm mode door operation - see if recirc mode helps, and change the leaky part/s. Coolant out, means air in, means bubbles in the high points of low flow areas.
Here's a little Youtube of Ericthecarguy showing you a procedure for bleeding.
click
The video is a little basic, but shows you the procedure in question.
I should have mentioned keeping the heat on the "high" setting, and I usually have the fan on full blast so I know the vehicle is getting heat and keeping heat in the interior with the driver window down.
Do this outside for obvious reasons, and please don't leave your pliers on the throttle cable keeping the RPM up, just too dangerous with standard shift cars. Keep the bucket at about the 1/3 marked full, and you should be fine!
Rev the motor to 3000+ RPM and hold it, does the air get hot and stay hot?
Bring it back down to idle, and it gets cooler, considerably?
There is a great kit available at a very low price that can help with bleeding your coolant system.
click
Don't leave home without it!
Either way, you have to fix your leak, and also be sure to use a 195 degree or "whatever stock degree" thermostat, as indicated by the OEM.
I bleed like 3 cars a week in this season (along with exchanging the coolant), and the only way to eliminate the air bubbles is to surge the system by keeping your revs up in the area beyond normal driving operation; 2500/3000RPM+. I keep the motor revved for 30 seconds at a time, and then idle, I go back to the engine, squeeze rad hoses and watch the air come bubbling up.
You have to be careful as you get the engine hotter, because once the thermostat opens, it can be a mini-geyser inside the yellow bucket!!!! Be Warned!!! Scolding coolant is bad!!!
So, cycle the engine once it gets up near warm and even keep the revs at a minimum 3000 RPM, and pulse the throttle up to 4000 RPM, and let it back down to 3000 RPM. You get the system pulsing the coolant and from what I figure, creating "waves" in the system. Once you notice that no more bubbles are coming out, and the thermostat has opened a few times, cooling fans are operating at proper temps too, then you should have scolding heat at the vents. If you do not, you have mode door issues, or something is not right in the heater core supply department I figure.
I have bled OEM's where they clearly state this similar type of process, to bleed their system of air in the heater core. You would not believe how high the mount the heater core hoses compared to the height of the rad caps in some systems. Ease of repair is good, but you have to know why you have no flow. You've replaced the parts likely to fail or clog, now you have to confirm mode door operation - see if recirc mode helps, and change the leaky part/s. Coolant out, means air in, means bubbles in the high points of low flow areas.
Here's a little Youtube of Ericthecarguy showing you a procedure for bleeding.
click
The video is a little basic, but shows you the procedure in question.
I should have mentioned keeping the heat on the "high" setting, and I usually have the fan on full blast so I know the vehicle is getting heat and keeping heat in the interior with the driver window down.
Do this outside for obvious reasons, and please don't leave your pliers on the throttle cable keeping the RPM up, just too dangerous with standard shift cars. Keep the bucket at about the 1/3 marked full, and you should be fine!
Last edited:
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
^^^ really nice post /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
Been using that same funnel set forever
... think it was less than fifteen bux when I bought it back in the day /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I learned to place a red rag over the top to catch the worst of the overflow / geyser action during the burping proccess.
One trick a saavy guy showed me to minimise the mess when you remove the funnel is to squeeze the upper radiator hose, then insert the plug and remove the funnel.
(This displaces a small amount of coolant out of the system and into the funnel. It's enough that when you pull the funnel, nothing spills out of the radiator.)
Just take what's left in the funnel over to the coolant reservoir, pull the plug and fill it to the full line.
Do that on a warm engine, and you'll have a reference to check each time the engine reaches operating temperature.
... no "guessing" on whether you're loosing coolant.
Thanks again for your post, Tim!
Lots of good information and experience in there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Been using that same funnel set forever
... think it was less than fifteen bux when I bought it back in the day /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I learned to place a red rag over the top to catch the worst of the overflow / geyser action during the burping proccess.
One trick a saavy guy showed me to minimise the mess when you remove the funnel is to squeeze the upper radiator hose, then insert the plug and remove the funnel.
(This displaces a small amount of coolant out of the system and into the funnel. It's enough that when you pull the funnel, nothing spills out of the radiator.)
Just take what's left in the funnel over to the coolant reservoir, pull the plug and fill it to the full line.
Do that on a warm engine, and you'll have a reference to check each time the engine reaches operating temperature.
... no "guessing" on whether you're loosing coolant.
Thanks again for your post, Tim!
Lots of good information and experience in there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Thanks toy, been taking some pointers from your posts.
When I am not posting so late I am seeing double/sideways, I hope to get a across a decent point. Never know what the OP might find, but we all like getting a handle on what makes certain systems tick. I've been trying to wrap my head around the cooling system for a while. I rag on my co-workers if they don't use an air purge model like we're discussing.
It should be said that I use a vacuum tool, to pull down the system and collapse the hoses in the process. I re-open the system with the pickup tube in a fresh bottle of coolant; in my shops case the pre-mix bulk coolant. It uses the vacuum to pull the system down to about 25". Gotta drain a minimum of the rad, or as the system decreases in volume as the hoses collapse, you don't want to be sucking up fluid or the syphon effect is nullified.
Anywho, I forgot to mention the rag in my haste to get my thoughts out. Guys, you gotta be on the rag thing!
Saves, a great deal of mess when the geyser hits. Much worse on Chev 3.8L's and Caravan motors. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Great tip on the rad hose squeeze, plug and pull. I'll put that to good use!
Now, we await the OP and his findings!
Did you know that depending upon your end tank materials, you can plastic weld some types! The original rads have some crazy bakelite stuff that was never meant to be reheated, and sealed as a result.
You can braze any alum pinholes shut, and or plastic weld the end tanks, without ever removing them from the core. Youtube has some great videos on plastic welding, Eastwood Company even sells one; but you can get away with a soldering iron. Bakelite won't shut or re-seal very well ..... I tried .... so, there are some kits that seal as a heat activated epoxy, possibly a short term cheat. Food for thought.
When I am not posting so late I am seeing double/sideways, I hope to get a across a decent point. Never know what the OP might find, but we all like getting a handle on what makes certain systems tick. I've been trying to wrap my head around the cooling system for a while. I rag on my co-workers if they don't use an air purge model like we're discussing.
It should be said that I use a vacuum tool, to pull down the system and collapse the hoses in the process. I re-open the system with the pickup tube in a fresh bottle of coolant; in my shops case the pre-mix bulk coolant. It uses the vacuum to pull the system down to about 25". Gotta drain a minimum of the rad, or as the system decreases in volume as the hoses collapse, you don't want to be sucking up fluid or the syphon effect is nullified.
Anywho, I forgot to mention the rag in my haste to get my thoughts out. Guys, you gotta be on the rag thing!
Saves, a great deal of mess when the geyser hits. Much worse on Chev 3.8L's and Caravan motors. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Great tip on the rad hose squeeze, plug and pull. I'll put that to good use!
Now, we await the OP and his findings!
Did you know that depending upon your end tank materials, you can plastic weld some types! The original rads have some crazy bakelite stuff that was never meant to be reheated, and sealed as a result.
You can braze any alum pinholes shut, and or plastic weld the end tanks, without ever removing them from the core. Youtube has some great videos on plastic welding, Eastwood Company even sells one; but you can get away with a soldering iron. Bakelite won't shut or re-seal very well ..... I tried .... so, there are some kits that seal as a heat activated epoxy, possibly a short term cheat. Food for thought.
Last edited:
coyotes
Well-known member
your coolant trick should be in the how-to archive as its own post, great information
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
Thanks for the good info. Ill give that a try, but yea the radiator is a must fix before i can properly figure out where my problems lies. Ill have to order one of those funnels as well. I know i do have air in the system as the temp will go up to 195-200 and then drop off to 180 and then go back up. I did have the radiator sealed with BG leak stop which works really good, but i wasnt able to get all the air out of the system. Ill see if i can get that big air pocket out of the system tomorrow and see if the heat improves at all and go from there.
DynastyLCD
Well-known member
I'm just curious, what cooling issues have you had with the AFCO scirocco style radiator?
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
Never had any cooling issues with it, it just started leaking about a year after i got it. I know a lot of people that have never had any problems with them, im not sure if i just got a bad one, but it didn't last long at all.
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
the core is leaking and around the welds for both the upper and lower outlets. It's been a couple years since i bought it so they wouldn't do anything now most likely
MRmeeTooxD
Well-known member
My heat is horrible also... seems like whether I switch the knob from left to right my heat is cold. Did u fix theheat??
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
Not yet, im gonna put in a new radiator first before I finish everything up
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