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ULTRA RACING 3 PTS FENDER BAR

Sounds like the ractive pedals get a bad rap because of how they hold to the oem pedals. If all they have are some tabs that you bend around the pedals then that is a huge fail IMO. Once the tabs get weak and break the aftermarket pedal is no longer "attached" to the oem pedal.

Imagine having to brake hard and your foot and aftermarket pedal slide off the actual brake pedal. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

Here is some mazda 3 member's review:

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click

And here are some pics of assembly on some random retail site:

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I will never put a pedal on my car that does not require drilling the oem pedal, I want a pedal that I know is secure.
 

DR1665

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Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,640
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Quoting Nabeel:



What do u think?



I've actually been thinking about picking up a set of these for the rally car, since my cage will not be going through the firewall to the front turrets. Galants are nose-heavy bitches and prone to hard landings. My concern is that I'll start bending the nose upward over time. A set of these (or similar, probably have Kent make them), combined with proper triangulation from the turrets to the center of the firewall would be a nice compromise, imo.
 

AnotherNewb

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Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,471
Location
Orlando, FL
On a rally car I would definitely weld a 1/8 plate in and bolt to that rather than drill and nut it on. Im sure that just bolting it in will lead to oval holes after just a jumps.
 

cheekychimp

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Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quoting brunoboy:
how do you order from the site anyways???



I ordered off eBay, shipped the same day and here in three but obviously Malaysia is much closer to me.


Quoting GVR40:
Something you would recommended for a track car Paul?



Definitely! There is a noticeable difference in handling which surprised me and it has quite obviously eliminated chassis flex in my car and for any car used in motorsport, chassis stiffening can only be a good thing. Again I would take the time to reinforce the area you are bolting the front support to, the same goes for Brian with a rally car so I'll address this below as well.


Quoting DR1665:
I've actually been thinking about picking up a set of these for the rally car, since my cage will not be going through the firewall to the front turrets. Galants are nose-heavy bitches and prone to hard landings. My concern is that I'll start bending the nose upward over time. A set of these (or similar, probably have Kent make them), combined with proper triangulation from the turrets to the center of the firewall would be a nice compromise, imo.



That was pretty much what I did on my other car welding in supports between the strut towers and firewall since I only have a half cage/roll bar. I also welded some flat stock vertically onto the chassis in front of the hinges and some 1/2 inch metal rod horizontally along the top of those rails that run parallel to the edge of the hood under the fender, but I didn't triangulate the two so I may fit a pair of these onto that car in the future. I think welding in a plate would work for a street car, in fact it may already be overkill for a daily driver but for the sort of abuse that you are suggesting, I am really not sure it is enough. The box section that the front support attaches to just seems very thin to me and even if you weld a plate in I would be concerned about the thinner metal on either side of it deforming. That was why when I did my other car I didn't use Curtis' nice lightweight subframe connectors but used really thick heavy angle iron instead. Once the car is running I will have mounting plates made for my roll bar that I can weld between the subframe connector and the pinch rail under the door sill and add triangular supports on each side.

For the rally car I'd be inclined (weight permitting) to weld 1/4 inch plates to both sides of that rail. One inside the engine bay with one edge welded right into the crease where the strut tower meets the edge of the engine bay. The one on the outside I would make rectangular extending forward at least as far as the forward support point of this fender bar. Then I would drill a hole right through both plates and the rail, run a bar through it and tie that into the other bar you intend to weld between the strut tower and the firewall. I would also weld right around the circumference of the bar where it passes through the plates. When you build your own fender bars, tie them into your door hinges but use all three bolts on the upper hinge (not just two as with this design) and in addition to making one forward support point just behind the strut tower as with these, tie in a 4th attachment point where your support bar goes through the rail. Depending on how far you want to go you could do the same at the bottom in front of the bottom hinge and weld in a vertical support bar between the two. The next airtime you get you'll probably bend the planet.


Quoting 3of1000:
Sounds like the ractive pedals get a bad rap because of how they hold to the oem pedals. If all they have are some tabs that you bend around the pedals then that is a huge fail IMO. Once the tabs get weak and break the aftermarket pedal is no longer "attached" to the oem pedal.



Actually, point taken. This is exactly the problem I encountered fitting these initially and had to get a bit creative. Over the summer I may do exactly as you suggest and 'bolt' some mounting plates onto the oem metal pedals that these can attach to better.
 
Last edited:

Nabeel

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Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
I just install the fender bar. here are some photos. I pointed to the bolts for removing the fender. it will guide some of you if ever plan to do the same.










You may needs to jack up the door little before you bolt it back. If you didn't' it will be hard to close the door.
 

curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
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11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Report back on how it does.
 

Nabeel

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Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
The car launch better now. It was jumping like bunny at launch before. I did not got the chance to test hard cornering.
 

kumfasa

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Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
Tauranga, New Zealand
Back from the dead.
Cheekychimp how did the panel hold up with just two bolt holes and no re-inforcing?
I see Cuttlassjim made a couple of re-inforcing plates for his which seems like a good idea but if its not needed I'd rather save myself the hassle.

I am about to install the full set of front and rear strut tower braces and the fender braces.
 

kumfasa

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
Tauranga, New Zealand
Hey Bazeng, after installing my kit the car was noticeably improved, turn in and steering inputs were much sharper and the overall feel of the car was “tighter”. I can’t comment on whether this change came from the fender braces or the strut bars as I installed them all at the time but the overall effect was great.
I used some reinforcing plates on the inner fender. Two bolts on sheet metal just didn’t seem sufficient to me.

 

tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
I haven't had my fenders off yet, so I have a question about possible install methods.

Does it seem feasible to use some pieces of pipe fit inside between the piece of sheet metal visible and the other inside the fender well? Then use some longer bolts and washers to sandwich everything together? How far apart are these to layers?
 
Last edited:

CutlassJim

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Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,694
Location
Manchester, NH
No the upper compartment is completely sealed off from the lower. Look at any new factory car and they all do it this way with an external brace.
 

CutlassJim

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Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,694
Location
Manchester, NH
Here's the factory CT9A brace under the Ultra racing one.

P1010900.JPG
 

tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
It's probably too far apart, but when I had a snow plow on my wrangler there were sleeves that went inside the frame rails so the clamping force of the bolts didn't crush the frame. Also it distributed the weight between the front and back. I was wondering if something like that could work here however it doesn't seem likely. Some local seam welds and a reinforcement plate seems in order.
 
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