The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

trying to keep the gvr4 warm in 5 degree weather..

It pulls like a bastard but heat sucks. I would not budge over 199.. and during pulls it went to like 175 lol! getting heat with 175 coolent temp sucks! I was thinking about putin some cardboard in front of the radiator but thats to much of a project or maybe a space heater inside? I dunno. The stock shocks hate this weather, the oil in em is like goo and it takes about 20mins for the shocks to warm up, its a quite a nice ride with 111k oem frozen shocks.


Here is a lil data i logged mmcd is not wanting to sync up now so i couldnt post the actual logs.. but im working on it.

6218 rpms
coolnt was 199
air temp was 34
injector duty cycle was 63% for the 750cc's
and had 8 degree's of timing. All on 93 and 20psi.

I wish i could monitor IAT's but oh well. Frozen shocks have there own unique sound for sure. But i do need a warm day to come to do the battery relocate and fuel pump rewire, but i dont think that is coming soon.
 

CP

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
You hit 34* today? We never got above 15* up around Boston. The stock GVR4 t-stat is a 190* unit. I wouldn't mess with anything other than to make sure your coolant isn't freezing after the car sits. I'm babying my car (no boost over 15psi) until it warms up a bit on Monday.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
I think he's saying that the air temp hitting the maf sensor was 34 degrees, which would seem like a normal underhood temp considering the ambient temps outside.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
You might have some blockage in your heater core. My GVR4 always had kicking heat, even when it was single digits out and I was running a 180* stat.

John
 

CarRacer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
4,371
Location
Shakopee, MN
I put cardboard in front of the radiator on my GTI. If I didn't, it got to temp when I got to work.

I didn't use any tape or anything. I just cut it to size and shoved it in front of the radiator. Works great. I can't wait to fire up the Galant and let it breathe some of this cold air.
 

gtluke

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2001
Messages
4,210
Location
dirty jersey
the heat in my galant is slowly getting crappier the last few years. I have a new heater core for it but yeah, it's 0 out so i'll think about that during the summer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Last edited:

i mean once it is fully warmed up to 199-200 where it seemed to stay the heat was good. But watching the logger and doing hard 3 gear pulls to the limiter the coolent would drop to 175 on the logger, it would take a while to back up to 198-200. I was getting heat but the motor dropped 20-30 degrees it took a lil bit to get the heat back to full temp. The car was sitting all day in the subzero temps and didnt fire her up until 8pm, and 1/2 crank start ftw! I just need to do the alt re-wire, and battery relocation but im not doing it in this weather.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

icurunnin

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
1,668
Location
Fort Worth Tx
Only reason it would drop to 175 under hard pulls is from the t-stat opening along with the water that had already sat in the radiator that is cold. I just slapped a 180 in mine and it will roast your feet after about 5 minutes of warming up parked. I know everyone I have owned has heated up really quick and that was with 20-30 degree weather out.
Try doing a coolant flush and see what happens from there. I had the same problem with my Comanche and I relaced the water and thermostat with no help. I decided to flush the coolant and a lot of dirty water came out but still did not help with heat. What worked for me was cutting the end of the water hose off and connecting it directly to the heater core and crank the water on high.
I did that probably 10-12 times (turned the water off and on) and to my surprise a bunch of rusty water came shooting out of the heater core. What I did next since I was already there was hooked the pistol blower with rubber tip up to my air compressor at 130psi and blew threw it (not smart btw) and that when a majority of the rust and crap came flying at me. So I proceeded to switch between the water and air till nothing came out and all is good now. It has great heat and just took a little work to get it there.

Sorry for the story but I hope it helps someone else.
 

werd... i totaly forgot to it has a bottle of water wetter in it along with a nice thick C&r radiator. I dont have the head liner in it yet so im probbly also getting leaks from the sunroof making the car cooler inside.
 

CP

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
Sounds like your cooling system is too efficient (thick radiator) in this cold weather. Blocking the radiator a bit with some cardboard might help, but watch your coolant temps in the beginning. This is the same principle that big rigs use in the cold weather. Ever notice the tarps they all have up front on the grill that snap into place?
 
Last edited:

yea ive been seeing alot of people putting cardboard in front of there grills. But it will pay off in the summer time i bet.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top