those who have lost clutch pedal pressure

[steve]

Trying to get an idea of what is most likely the culprit. If you've lost pedal pressure, was it the master, slave, hard line, something else? Wont be able to get to this thing maybe til Monday. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Trying to get an idea of what I might be in for. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Forgot to mention, theres plenty of fluid in the master, and i did see a small amount of fluid on the ground when I rolled the car back. Wont go into gear when running, but goes in fine when the car is off.

 

[Jason G.]

All 3 places really. If there is still fluid in the master, then I bet it's the slave. Have someone push the pedal in while you look at the slave, fluid should squirt out. It may only leak when pressurized, which is why you have fluid in the reservoir.

 

[steve]

Yeah I've got to get back there with another person to really check it out. Plus, today it was pouring and I was in work clothes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[vapid]

replaced the master(which was leaky), slave(to a tel fwd), put in longer clutch rod, and welded the pedal assembly(which helped, but didnt solve it)

what finally solved it was welding a nut behind the pedal assembly where the master rod attaches! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

oh, and the clutch fork and pivot ball are new too!

 

[steve]

Did it fail suddenly (like mine) or over time?

 

[vapid]

during upgrade

 

[steve]

Ah ok. I'm talking about a failure, not upgrade "issues". Not to say that you can't share your experience. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Mines got soft recently. I believe its the slave cylinder. I'm gunna replace is when i pull my motor out. Along with a bunch of other things.

 

Take a line clamp and put it on the rubber clutch line (if you haven't already put a stainless line in) then try to push the clutch in. If it is rock solid, your master is fine. Good luck with everything.

 

[Rausch]

mine sent the pedal to the floor, over about 4 shifts, ended up being the master....but then again a few months earlier, i replaced the slave when i did the clutch... it was a small leak, part inside, part outside, as i found a small amount of fluid under the car and on the floor inside...maybe take a look on both sides of the firewall to see if there is any fluid.

 

[steve]

Thanks for the tips. The pedal still comes back up.

 

[atc250r]

A lot of times when one goes bad the other is right behind it in failing. When we used to do them on the 3KGT's a lot at the Mitsu dealer I would always recommend doing both so that I wouldn't be the "crappy tech" who couldn't look into a crystal ball and see that the other part was about to go. If one is bad I'd recommend doing both.

John

 

[Turbo4door1]

When it happened to me, it was the slave cylinder on the trans. The seal went out on it. I drove for about 10 minutes after I started noticing it, then shifting got progressively worse, until it got to the point I couldn't get the car in gear with the engine running. No lead up to it really, it just went out.

 

[steve]

Whats involved in doing the clutch fork, if it turns out the master and slave cylinders are OK? Another member PM'ed me about the same symptom, but the rod is being actuated properly and a new slave didn't help.

 

You have to seperate the trans and the motor to change the clutch fork. Put a new fulcrum ball in and shim it about the thickness of a quarter while you're in there.

 

That sucks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif My slave cylinder went out a couple weeks ago and I replaced it with a "Pink" T/E/L one. The symptoms before going out were sluggish and sloppy engage of gears while shifting until it went out entirely. When it did let go out the pedal went straight to the floor after pumping it and getting all the fluid out a couple times then it never came back up. The slave cylinder is an easy fix (10 mins tops). But if it's a clutch fork, good luck man. The steps are pretty much the same as if you were replacing the entire clutch.


Oh yea and if you have to drain the clutch fluid it's just Brake fluid. Dot3 I think

 

[steve]

I'll keep my fingers crossed. Gonna get to work early tomorrow, push the car out of my Director's parking spot where I was parking last week since he was out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif Then start wrenching in the work parking lot. I'm gonna get some strange looks and questions.

 

[steve]

Slave cyl is out (that was easy!) but I think its probably OK. It holds pressure (cover the fitting hole with my thumb and push on the rod). The slave pushes on an arm/fulcrum. Theres no provision for it to PULL on that arm, only push. Based on that I'd expect the arm to pop back by itself when you push it. Its not. I can click the arm to the left, or to the right, and it stays there. Am I right that it should pop back by itself?

edit: Why does CAPS show the rod with a notch at the end? I think its just a bad diagram.

 

[steve]

Quote:
Based on that I'd expect the arm to pop back by itself when you push it. Its not. I can click the arm to the left, or to the right, and it stays there. Am I right that it should pop back by itself?



*crickets*

Anyone? Should the arm push back against the slave cylinder by itself, with the car turned off?

Nevermind, the arm wouldn't push back unless I actually pressed in the clutch by hand using that arm. I'm just feeling the dead play in the arm.

 

[s_firestone]

The slave cylinder is a one way hydraulic push. It has no pull of its own(much like a brake cylinder). The return is provided by the spring from the clutch fingers imparted to the clutch arm. The clutch wants to be engaged. The slave cylinder pushes to oppose the tension and moves the arm against the spring tension. The clutch fingers provide the push which in turn depresses the slave cylinder arm back to its inner travel.

You are correct in that it is a lever. But pushing against a spring loaded clutch. It turns an inch of travel into several hundred pounds of force using an incompressible liquid. That in turn is actuating a lever which turns 1" of travel into thousands of pounds of friction holding surface area.

Think of it like a solenoid. It actuates. A solenoid has to have an independent force to return it whether by spring, magnetic, pressure, ect.