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Stock Upgrades

se7enine

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Reno, NV
So I was wondering what you more experienced techs think are some must have upgrades (if any) for anyone wanting to stay near stock or under 250 HP.

Are there any OEM parts that can be upgraded to be more reliable? Maybe a FP manifold? I already have a manual boost gauge and mbc set to 8 lbs. with the 14b and the ECU is chipped. I will be getting a Wideband to help monitor my A/F. I also have a logger.

My goal isn't really to improve HP but overall reliability. Would it be beneficial to upgrade the injectors to 560 cc or just rebuild the original injectors. I plan to rewire the fuel pump. I also have an EVO IX fmic that I will also be installing this summer. The bushings have been replaced already and so has the suspension.

I'm quite happy with the cars performance as is so that's why I'm asking about improving it's reliability. I also have ARP head studs that I plan on using once I rebuild if and when. Thanks in advance.
 

5OF2k

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Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
On a healthy car and 14b, you should have NO problem getting mid 13s out of it, and near 300hp. Doing things like EGR blockoffs and porting or replacing the manifold and o2 and turbine housing with free flowing units makes a huge difference.

Also, FWIW, you should be able to safely run 15-16lbs on the setup with no issues, provided everything is in good shape.

Head to Vfaq.com and look under the freemods section, go from there. Definitely take care of maintenance items first and foremost.

-Jake
 

mikus

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
2,763
Location
Aurora IL
most 14b's out there are on their last leg. Old injectors need cleaning. Those are maintenance as much as upgrades after 22 years. Those, a rewire, FMIC and definitely maintenance and you're a happy camper.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
FMIC really helps with a good exhaust. Both are highly restrictive. Turbo intake is restrictive too.
 

se7enine

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Reno, NV
I have already rebuilt the 14b and also plan to replace all my intake and fmic piping with custom stainless piping.
 

jnava

Staff member
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
2,066
Location
Arlington, Tx
I had my 14b at a safe 23lbs and it ran great with link and all the supporting mods. 950s, 255 wally, evo 9 fmic, 2600 act w/ street, rewire. The 14b did have a 7cm hotside with a ported 2g Mani and o2. Just have fun.
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
I would do aluminum, ss retains too much heat.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
If I were to start fresh with a 14b build that is to be kept mostly stock and for reliability, my mod list would look like this:

Barring all maintenance is good to go...

2gMaf
550cc injectors
Walbro 190 pump
2.5" turboback
2g exhaust manifold
FMIC and piping
Boost/oil pressure/Wideband gauges
balance shaft elimination
MBC at like 18psi

cheap tuning: eprom chip (possibly with an SAFC for fine tuning)
better, but more expensive option: ECMlink
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
^^ that's pretty much my build now except

20psi
255pump
AFPR
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Quoting G:
I would do aluminum, ss retains too much heat.



As a metal, stainless may retain more heat than aluminum. But for our purposes, it really makes zero difference. I have many logs showing ambient IAT temps at the throttle body through my stainless piping. And that's with a pipe that runs up and over the exhaust manifold. Stainless is also waaaay more durable.
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Do you have logs with alum piping to see the difference? Also alum is lighter.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
The difference? You can't get much cooler than ambient by using a different metal. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

And If I replaced my two pipes with aluminum, I might save one pound. Not worth it, IMO.
 
Last edited:

JNR

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
9,803
Location
ca
Aluminum does dissipate heat better than stainless, true...but the stainless steel can use a thinner wall than aluminum so your actual surface area (volume) with regard to heat starts to get closer, as does the weight.

Besides, the only true way to make a difference would mean to shape the wall in such a way as to resemble a heat sink, then you need some way of moving cooler air (or liquid) over that in order for it to move the hot air away. Obviously not practical, unless you could get a source of cold fluid circulating around the tube, so that it draws heat away...but we're getting carried away now, lol.
 
Last edited:

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Although I appreciate it requires an alternative method to activate if you don't have a JDM ECU, I think the addition of the cyclone intake manifold to a stock or mildly modified car is a great OEM upgrade.

With reference to the OPs question, if you are only looking to maintain stock power I don't think that there are many components you can add that will 'improve' reliability. Some perhaps, but not many. What you will however find is that there are a large number of OEM upgrades that will improve performance without sacrificing reliability, although it is advisable to tune for things like higher compression if using 2G pistons etc.

If you look at it from that perspective, there are a whole range of 'upgrades' from later model DSM, EVO and even 3KGT cars that can be used in the VR4 to get you close to 300 horsepower with pretty much stock OEM reliability.

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with stock cars, they drive great but up to around 300-350 horsepower they can drive just as great and be just as reliable if you choose the right parts.
 

Wizardawd

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,323
Location
Franklin, NC
FMIC will help performance and reliability.
2g exhaust manifold and o2 housings flow better and have a higher nickel contruction which is less prone to cracking.
Higher flow fuel pump rewired will give you a higher safety margin and room to grow, especially considering the stock stuff was a tad small anyways.

I'm sure there are others, but those are definite upgrades that are completely better in both areas.

Wiz
 

se7enine

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Reno, NV
Thanks for the replies guys, little more research and a lot more money and I may have this all figured out yet. Don't anybody go and post something new and exciting they did to their cars, I don't need anymore ideas in my head /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Dont overlook maintenance items. Be sure to have OEM timing components, also does your engine have good compression? I'm sure you got that all handled, but I always like to mention proper maintenance.
 

EHmotorsports

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
Most have already been swapped out. But first gear is weak in the galants. Swap to a 1g dsm unit.
 

BpuVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
806
Location
Chicago
Quoting turbowop:
If I were to start fresh with a 14b build that is to be kept mostly stock and for reliability, my mod list would look like this:

Barring all maintenance is good to go...

2gMaf
550cc injectors
Walbro 190 pump
2.5" turboback
2g exhaust manifold
FMIC and piping
Boost/oil pressure/Wideband gauges
balance shaft elimination
MBC at like 18psi

cheap tuning: eprom chip (possibly with an SAFC for fine tuning)
better, but more expensive option: ECMlink



what do you think this setup will put down dyno/strip? ive been getting more and more interested in simple setups lately.
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
I'm expecting to be around 260crank. I FEEL like its just as fast as my talon that dynoed at 245wheel.
 
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