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starts normal then sputters and dies, unable to drive.

Vr4door

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Messages
14
Location
AZ
Ok so I have an issue and have tried to do research but can't find another thread on my problem exactly. So about 2 nights ago I was driving home from work, pulled out of the parking lot and drove normally through the gears until I hit about 2500rpm in 5th gear and within 1 mile from work the car sputtered like crazy, lost all power and it died. Tried starting it up and it started ok and idled ok for about 4 seconds then started sputtering and died at idle. Started it again and tried to give it some gas but as soon as I pressed the pedal it was a slow response and sputtered even worse and died. Towed it back to work and tried starting it again because I was unable to drive it. Tried messing with it a little bit at work but the same thing keeps happening, it starts normal, idles normal for about 4-7seconds and sputters then sputtering gets worse until finally it dies.

So here is a list of what is going on to make diagnosing a little easier:
-No cel
- very rich smell
-tank is full of gas
-car is almost stock, just has a afpr and 16g.
-fuel pressure is 43psi
-car starts normally and starts up every time.
-it is a 91 gallant vr4
-car idles ok for about 4-7seconds then starts to sputter and sputtering gets worse and dies within 30-60seconds.
-whenever the gas pedal is touched the response is very slow and the car sputters even worse and dies but will sometimes "catch" it's self and keep rough sputter idling.
-the only way I could get the car to move was to put it in first and let out the clutch slowly and let it roll with a slight sputter idle roll but as soon as the gas pedal is pushed the car will sputter like crazy and die.
-sounds like right after start up it is running all 4 cylinders and everything is normal but after the 4 -7 seconds the car sounds like it dropped down to running off of 2 cylinders or something.


Any help will be very appreciated! Thanks.
 
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GSTwithPSI

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Ever had the fuel pump out of the tank? My immediate thought would be a clogged fuel filter, or pump sock. Sounds like the car isn't getting the volume of fuel it needs. Open the trunk, pull the pump access cover off and remove the sending unit from the tank (takes 10 min). Peek in and see if there is a bunch of sh*t in the tank. If so, there's a good chance you've got a flow restriction somewhere in the system.
 

Vr4door

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Messages
14
Location
AZ
I also thought that but since the fuel pressure is 43psi at the fuel rail wouldn't it be ok?
No harm in checking any ways so I will look into it.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Well, that's a pretty common misconception. Pressure can remain constant even when flow is seriously restricted. Hence, your fuel pressure gauge will almost never allude to a major obstruction to flow in the fuel system. The line would pretty much have to be completely blocked for it to effect pressure. Here's a good visual representation and explanation of what I'm talking about: click
 

Vr4door

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Sep 13, 2013
Messages
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Location
AZ
I added 2 things to the list that I forgot to mention.
It smells very rich and it sound like it goes from running on 4 cyl to 2 cyl or something.
 

Fiascoxl

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Jan 25, 2013
Messages
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Stuarts Draft, Va
This almost sounds like a ECU on its way out. Thats the first thing I would start with, pull it out and see what it looks like or if it smells.
 

G

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Feb 24, 2004
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zompton
Did you check the fuel pump strainer yet?
 

Vr4door

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Sep 13, 2013
Messages
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Location
AZ
Problem solved. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I was the MAF sensor. Went to work today, started the car and it kept dying off then unplugged the MAF and it was a much better idle and stayed alive. Took the sensor off and cleaned it with brake cleaner, put it back on, plugged it in and it ran great again!
 

Fiascoxl

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Stuarts Draft, Va
Brake Cleaner? Um I wouldn't rely on that maf for too much longer, I am amazed it is still working. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
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I've used brakleen to clean up a MAF before. No ill effects. Just don't soak the hell out of it, and blow it out with air so the liquid will rapidly evaporate. It's not really that different than the sh*t they market as cleaner dedicated to such a purpose anyway.
 

EHmotorsports

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maybe only on gvr4 Mafs? but definitely not on BMW mafs or anything newer then 95.
 

mitsuturbo

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Quoting EHmotorsports:
maybe only on gvr4 Mafs? but definitely not on BMW mafs or anything newer then 95.



I can't agree with that. I've used it on 1g as well as 2g MAFs. 2g being 95 and newer. Also, i've used it on GM MAFs.
 

EHmotorsports

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then you have been lucky as it takes the coating off of most honeycombs. I know this from experience as a BMW/MINI tech for 8 years and working on cars a total of 15. maybe you are using cali recommended cleaner that takes hardly anything off anyways.

If you are talking about hot wire style Mafs then yes you can clean them with almost anything. just not the part that makes the static charge.
 
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Fiascoxl

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Well you learn something new everyday, and I have payed for the way more expensive maf cleaner in the past. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

Hertz

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Chicago, IL
Quoting EHmotorsports:
then you have been lucky as it takes the coating off of most honeycombs. I know this from experience as a BMW/MINI tech for 8 years and working on cars a total of 15. maybe you are using cali recommended cleaner that takes hardly anything off anyways.

If you are talking about hot wire style Mafs then yes you can clean them with almost anything. just not the part that makes the static charge.



Coating? The honeycomb is just there to straighten the airflow. The sensor is an ultrasonic pressure sensor, which should be sealed. (Karman Vortex type sensor). There isn't any coating on them and if there is it is from oil vapors and environmental stuff that is sucked into the intake. You could probably paint it and it wouldn't alter the functionality significantly. (Don't do this)

My source: I have one and know how it works.
 

EHmotorsports

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think what you want. you don't have to take my advice and when it fails you will know.
click

also note that silicone is dissolved by brake cleaner.
 
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EHmotorsports

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almost all electronic component use silicone. and is why brake cleaner is not good to use on sensors.
 
Last edited:

mitsuturbo

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Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting EHmotorsports:
then you have been lucky as it takes the coating off of most honeycombs.



Awesome. Since i'm apparently so lucky, i think i'll go buy some lotto tickets today!
 
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