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Some advice needed for Uber build

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
Ok, So sometime in the near future I am going to be picking up a clean rolling chassis and the plan is to build a ridiculous and amazing VR4. Its gonna be pretty much a complete restoration/build. I am looking for advice on how to go about making this the best VR4 possible. My main concern right now is at the engine. I cant decide what route to go, 2.0, 2.3 or 2.4. Im looking to make this car reliable as well as powerful. I also want this car to be streetable and smooth. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each engine? This is also going to be a pretty much unrestricted budget build taking place over the next few years. I would just like to know an approximate price for this build. Here is a very incomplete list of what I have planned:

Built motor(Most likely by Jack Mcgee)
Built head with cams (kelford 272s??)
Built trans by Jack (with the quaife front LSD and 10% taller 5th)
Twin disk clutch
(possible aluminum driveshaft)
4 bolt LSD rear
3000gt brakes (i believe it was cheekychimp who mentione a way to use the 3000gt rears to retain the e-brake /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif )
Hotbits suspension
SMIM (possible, Im not sure if I want to try a cyclone or extrude hone a stocker. Opinions?)

Im completley up in the air on turbo setups. I need help here too

Meth injection
Liquid to air IC (Opinions on this?)
Aluminized 3" TBE
All poly bushings everywhere
All SS lines
Front and rear swaybars
AEM EMS

Cosmetic stuff:
JDM front and rear bumpers(RS or AMG if I can find em)
93 headlights
Im undecided on wheels right now, but im pretty sure they will be 17s
Probably two tone paint, Im thinkin green on top and black on bottom
CF hood and trunk(but Im gonna paint em)
AMG 3 piece spoiler(maybe even in CF)
EvoVIII seats in the front

The underside of the car will be undercoated including subframes. (possibly powdercoated)

I know I have missed quite a bit, but it still gives yall a a glimpse of what Im planning.

Please give your input and advice. Im looking to make this the best car I can, any help is appreciated.

Tyler
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Tyler get the brakes on the car and hubs if your going to 5 lugs and take careful measurements before you start even looking for wheels. The 3000 calipers are thick and 95% of the wheels will not clear without spacers. Another alternative is the camaro/ws6/vette calipers with the cobra rotors and the brackets ron builds.
 

Ty,
If you run E85, there's no need for Meth injection. I'd go 2.4 due to less rpm needed for daily driving. For turbo I'd go with a billet 6262.
 

RA-DI-AT-OR/cooling system upgrades? These are hot cars, and need cooling. You can't run the meth all the time. Also, think about having your headers heattreated in some way to reduce under hood temps and add to the longevity of EVERYTHING. A header coating such as Jet Hot reduces the skin temp of your headers like 350-400 degrees, looks cool, and doesn't breed rust like header wrap. Unfortunately I wouldn't use the silver version, as it only holds 1700 degrees, whereas the darker extreme holds 2450. I don't know if a build like yours would reach those temps, anyone?

As far as liquid to air, I have been considering it for some time, and have learned the following things. Most people who don't have it think it sucks. People who do have it aren't sure if they would have been better off with a FMIC. Installing a Air/Liquid does not involve your bumper and a sawzall. They use it on high performance air planes, when they could just use a big FMIC. (The counter to the most frequent thing people say "just get a big FMIC") If you are not trying to run AC, I say go for it. If you are trying to run AC, you may have some issues with airflow with all those radiators up there (Coolant, Ac, Oil (assuming you go external cooler) and air/liquid.) If you are planning on replacing your radiator, you could get a high pro fan and a half-wide double-thick rad, leave the condenser where it is, and put the air/liquid intercooler next to it with the oil cooler in front, also with a strong fan. That way you would only ever have two radiators competing for flow. Any additional cooling would be accomplished with your water/meth. And your car would look semi stealth, without a giant FMIC up front.
 

ducttapeguy

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Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
Yes I definitely plan on upgrading the cooling. I just dont know what the best path would be. I would like to keep AC because this will be a DD and every once in a while being able to roll up the windows and get some cold air flowing is nice. Im probably just going to have to do a lot more research before I decide whether or not to go the liquid to air route. Who makes a good air to liquid kit? Or would I be better off having a custom one made?

That Jet Hot sounds like a great way to reduce under hood temps. Thanks for that info, I didnt even know that stuff existed.

Curtis, the main reasons I am looking at the 3000gt brakes are for a factory look(I know, sounds kinda dumb since Im modding pretty much everywhere else) and also because I think I have read that the 3000gt rears push the rear wheels out flush if you install them a certain way. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Any thoughts on this?

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the weights of the 2.0 and the 2.4 engine? Im curious as to how much more the 2.4 will weigh. Thanks for the input everyone. Keep it coming

Thanks again

Ty
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Quoting 687OF2000:
RA-DI-AT-OR/cooling system upgrades? These are hot cars, and need cooling. You can't run the meth all the time.



I run methanol injection everytime the car comes out of the garage. Stock radiator/cooling and AC to boot.
 

Interesting? How big is your tank and how fast do you go through it? I guess if I was going to spend 2-5k on motor/turbo/meth/air-liquid etc, I would at least replace the stock radiator, fan etc, even if it is with stock parts.

My reasoning is based on my own car and its 4-5 previous owners. The damage I keep finding to things and the money I keep spending to fix those things makes me trust NOTHING under the hood. Thus, fairly cheap insurance. almost 20 year old electric fans and radiators possibly filled with junk do not inspire my confidence.

A cheap alternative is to have your rad rodded out by a rad shop, should cost about $50.

I mean hell, this guy said he might POWDERCOAT his subframes. If he is spending $200 on that he can buy a blingtastic cooling system.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

christo

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2003
Messages
201
Location
Fairhope, AL
Quote:
would just like to know an approximate price for this build


I would say atleast 20k plus.

Quote:
3000gt brakes


Stoptechs.
 

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
Quote:
Built head with cams (kelford 272s??)


yay kelfords. I really like those guys.

We have a nice guy here who does Very nice things with cylinder heads- I'd get one over to him and tell him what your goals are. (BoostinHard BTW).
 

ducttapeguy

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Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
I am figuring its gonna cost at least 20k but probably closer to 30k to do it right and get it just how I want it. What else am I missing on my list?
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Quoting 687OF2000:




I mean hell, this guy said he might POWDERCOAT his subframes. If he is spending $200 on that he can buy a blingtastic cooling system.



It's funny you should mention that since all my subframes are powdercoated as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

How fast I go through my 3gal tank of meth depends on how often I get on it. Meth starts spraying at 10psi.
 

LOL! I guess I am just very paranoid, living in phoenix with 115+ temps for three months out of the year.
 

rgeier11

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Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Messages
726
Location
Chicago Suburbs, IL
I had my SFP manifold Jet Hot coated with the "silver" application. It has faded a little, but not flaked in the past 4 years. This is on a T3/T4 60-1 setup.
 

H05TYL

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
I didn't see anyone else mention a 4-spider centre diff, so I shall. (A cusco tarmac diff would of course be another option).
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
The transmission I am planning on having built is this one. Jack builds amazing transmissions and this one is pretty much the best one he makes. Im also planning on having him build either this 2.3 or this 2.4 I was also looking at this remote oil cooler kit What are anyones thoughts on this? I thought I might be able to tuck it away somewhere to allow more room up front for better airflow to the radiator AC condenser and the heat exchanger for the possible liquid to air IC or the FMIC.
 

4thStroke

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Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
1,864
Location
Vancouver, WA
As far as the 2.3 vs 2.0 goes, I will never fork out money for a 2.3.

I went for a ride in my buddies 2.3/6262 Evo. The off boost power still wasnt there and the stroker motors dont like to rev like the little 2.0, they sign off too early IMO to really put the 6262 to work like they are capable of.

Full spool was right around 4200 rpm.

You may want to consider skipping the AEM EMS. You can save a ton of money with ECMLink and even tuning it yourself is a possibility unless you know your way around the AEM EMS.
 
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