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Slave cylinder rod ???

Kenny_Kline

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I have an ACT 2600 with a 6puck sprung disc. I have the system properly bled and I adjusted the pedal as much as it will go. The clutch disengages when the pedal is all the way at the floor and starts to bite as soon as I let it up a little. I want the clutch to grab higher up. Will a longer rod fix this issue?
 

iLLeffeKt vr-4

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It should fix the issue but if all the other coponents (slave, master, ball, clutch pedal assembly, etc) are in good working condition you shouldn't need the longer slave rod.
 
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Kenny_Kline

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I did not shim it. I read about it after I swapped the clutch in. Something about using a washer. I refuse to drop the transmission to shim it. The slave cyl, clutch line, and master cylinder are all brand new.
 

prove_it

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If you have the stock slave in, pull it out and under the banjo fitting there is a small plate and spring. Take that out. It's there to help slow fluid movement for normal drivers. It does no good though. I did that along with a new master and slave which helped a lot, but it was still a bit too low so I used a longer clutch rod and now it's perfect. Clutch engages about 1 1/2" off the floor and feels great.
 

Kenny_Kline

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So where do I get this longer slave rod from?

I have a brand new slave cylinder, master cylinder, and SS clutch line from the master to the slave. I dont know what resrictor your talking about but if its in the slave, I will take a look for it again. Is it part of the stock line? Because I deleted the stock line and run a SS line from master to slave...
 

prove_it

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Here's how to do it:

Take your slave cylinder off and remove the banjo fitting from the slave.
Take the whole slave and hold it in your hand and look inside the hole where banjo fitting was.
You'll see a little silver piece with a hole in the middle.
Use a pick or something similiar to pull it out. It's really easy.
There is a spring behind the plate take that out too.

and reassemble and bleed the system and be amazed!

Once you see the plate and how small the hole is, you'll wonder how it can even work.
 
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4thStroke

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I just put a new slave in my car monday. I had no clue about that spring and plate, but when I removed the banjo fitting, it fell out. I looked at it for a while and decided it would be better off in the trash.

Did you adjust the clutch at the pedal? Its a pair to get to and small adjustments make a big difference. Crawl under the dash and check it out. I can get m clutch and engage at the floor or at the very top if I want. There is a lot of adjustment to be had right there.
 

boostedinaz

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My guess is that your ball and fork are worn causing the extra slop. If everything is srtup correctly then all these "fixes" like shimming the ball and exteneded rods won't be needed. They are simply badnaids to make up for other sections of the system that are lacking.
 

iLLeffeKt vr-4

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I'm with this guy ^^^^^^
 

atc250r

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Me too (pretty much) except for shimming the pivot ball. The reason that works is because it seems to improve the geometry of the forks travel. It sounds like you need more "throw" out of the slave. The only way to really do that is to go with a slave with a smaller diameter piston. Some GVR4's/1G's had a 3/4" piston, some had a 13/16" one. If you have a 13/16" then you need to go to a 3/4". If you already have a 3/4" then I would make sure the cruise control switch (the one that the clutch pedal arm hits on the top of the clutch bracket) is as far out as possible without preventing it from doing its job and I would get a 1 piece braided clutch line intended for a 2G DSM. Those two things should get you where you need to be.

John
 

Kenny_Kline

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I ordered a 2G slave cylinder and they all have 13/16" bores. Who makes them in 3/4" ???

Also, My clutch fork is fine. Its actually brand new. I didnt do anything to the pivot ball but it looked fine.
 
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Brianawd

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Last edited:

prove_it

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Some cars are different in ways no one can ever know. I had the same issue and was told to replace the pivot ball and fork, so I did and still didn't do any good. Longer clutch rods help to give the slave more possible extention thats all it does. Some aftermarket slaves have different mounting depths and a longer rod corrects this. Removing the spring and plate allow more fluid pressure to reach the cylinder faster which helps with the pedal feel. Properly adjusting the pedal will make it all come together.
 

boostedinaz

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So how did the millions of DSMs coming off the lot get away with not shimming the pivot or using the longer rods? Out of the 3 DSMs I have owned and the dozens I have done clutches on I have never used any of these "fixes" and every one has shifted perfectly fine as long as the flywheel was stepped correctly, the pivot ball was new, the fork was new, and they had all the bolts holding the trannt to the block proprly torqued.
 

atc250r

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Quoting Kenny_Kline:
Who makes them in 3/4" ???



Different year 1G's used different diameter ones. There is probably something in the "How-To" section on it.

John
 

prove_it

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Quoting boostedinaz:
So how did the millions of DSMs coming off the lot get away with not shimming the pivot or using the longer rods? Out of the 3 DSMs I have owned and the dozens I have done clutches on I have never used any of these "fixes" and every one has shifted perfectly fine as long as the flywheel was stepped correctly, the pivot ball was new, the fork was new, and they had all the bolts holding the trannt to the block proprly torqued.



Cause they had stock weak clutchs with brand new oem parts. start adding aftermarket parts and a 2600 lb clutch and that changes.
 

boostedinaz

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^^^^^^^

All the jobs I did were aftermarket clutches 2100, 2600, Center Force, and Spec not a single problem with engagment or release. The few cars that needed these "fixes" didn't want to spend the money to replace all the common wear items. Weird.
 
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