Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
I just bought the s16g new two months ago, so I don't plan on changing it out just yet.
Thanks for all the tips and info guys it sounds like I should be close to about 250-275 horse.
I like the quick spool,and dont really want/need more topend yet, I rarely rev it past 4k.
but I think knock is holding me back, Im gonna try some octane booster and see if thats the cause of knock.
plus it seems lately to be missing a little so Im gonna throw new plugs in it tommarrow,
I have the ngk bpres in it, changed about 3-4k ago, how often do you guys change them out.
Agreed, those octane boosters won't do squat for you, and as Jason said which plugs are they BPR6ES, BPR7ES,BPR8ES? 6s are stock and should be fine with your mods. Don't just replace your plugs, inspect them and post some pictures up, so we can better help you out. Actually inspecting the plugs can help diagnosing the problem.
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, plug wires, etc?
The plugs and wires were done with the engine rebuild, 1yr but only 3-4k miles.
It had the v-power plugs BPR6EY in it.
I put the BPR6ES in today, the ones that came out had light brown on the tips, that means good burn right.
Good call on the fuel filter I have'nt changed it out ever, Im going to the parts store now.
What is your timing at, out of curiousity. By chance have some logs you can post? Need to see whats causing the knock/etc. chances are youre getting whats known as phantom knock as well. With your mods and level of boost, you shouldnt be seeing detremental knock, unless something is wayyyy out f whack in the tune(which does happen from time to time with the keydiver programs).
Doublecheck your logs, im willing to bet you're seeing knock where the timing advance increases, and id also be willing to bet its more pre-ignition than knock. Post them up if you get a chance!
I understand your perspective on this but I think that you're underestimating this little turbo. Mine held 20psi to redline. Now I'm back to a 14b for autocross and even it will hold 18psi to redline. With a nice E3 7cm housing, the s16g is a very capable turbo for a street car. I agree, it won't make quite as much power. But time spent spooling is time spent being slow. And efficiency at lower boost is still important when you consider how it affects spool, throttle response, boost threshold, and the grandma-setting on your boost controller. My dyno run was taken with very conservative boost settings and next to no tuning. click
I dunno Belize...that little 16g would be working a LOT harder to hit his 300whp goal than a B16g/E16g, and be a touch out of its efficiency range, which means more heat, and therefore less consistent power....and let's be real. The s16g being more efficient below 15psi is entirely irrelevent, being as he wont be anywhere near that boost level. also, having a peaky, quick spooling turbo with next to no top end is extremely disappointing. Sure you're hitting 25lbs by 3500rpm, but what good does that do you when you're only making 12psi at redline....? Enjoy your s16g's all you want, but when you're getting pulled on because your call falls on it's face above 4500rpm by a E16g car, you'll see what I mean. Plus, come accross an E16g, and you've got at least an easy 60-75 more HP to play with when (yes, I said WHEN) you get bored of 300hp.
The main reason most of us suggested upgrading the turbo, was because it's ALWAYS easier to dial a setup down than it is to stretch a setups' capabilities. It's also safer for the engine, more reliable, and more efficient which therefore makes it more enjoyable, IMHO.
Going with a bigger turbo will not only alow you to hit your goals more easily, but also give you a bit of room to grow. It's the same eal if you're running larger injectors than you "need", a larger intercooler than you "need, and so-on. Then, when you get bored with your 300whp (Yes, WHEN again), you'll have some room to play with, and hopefully it'll be just another matter of a larger turbo and fuel/etc. Spend the $$ out of the gate on things you figure you'll want to do down the road, or have in the back of your mind, and it'll make it that much easier to acheive down the road. Just sayin'.
Wow I'm impressed with the cyclone intake. What were your other mods?
Also, this dyno chart compares the cyclone, and the non-functional cyclone. Are there any dyno graphs of a functioning cyclone compared to a non-cyclone? I'm considering buying one of these with my Christmas money.
Yesterday I put in a factory fuel filter, it was very clogged and dirty, car idles alot better and the 1-2 gear pulls i get almost no knock,
but just above 3500 rpm in 3-4-5 gear all still have knock, when my friend was over helping me he was pointing out that it is misfiring randomly.
figured it was the shitty autozone plug wires, yes I know they suck, but at the time I had just spent 2k on engine rebuild.
with New wires its still misfiring, knocking up top. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I also dont know how to post up logs, can I download them to my comp from the palm pliot?, or do I load the mmc program to the laptop and log with it?
sorry Im a noob at this stuff.
thanks for all the help.
You need to determine if it's real. Throw some 110 in there and see if it goes away. Until then you are blind. If for some reason you can find any 110, you can also try to roll your timing way back to see if the knock goes away.
Sounds like you got a great starting set up if your not going for 400hp you should be good with just installing an APEX SAFC its cheaper than a complete new engine management and will take care of your knocking when tuned correctly Im pulling 15psi on similar set up but can take up to 20psi without knocking and if you run at that you should be at your goal
The timing was holding me back big time, it runs amazing now on just 12psi with a little spikeing to 15.
I will probally turn up the boost a little and datalog for a bit and see what the chip can safely run.
Then I want to get a wideband and safc at the first of the year,and go from there, I think it should be close to 300 then.
Its ironic that my fuel filter was so clogged, Im always preaching to my friends to change them out every year or when the're complaining about how crappy there car is running. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif