The Authoritative Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Shifting

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
Just recently I had this problem where if I were to do a WOT pull up to about 6k rpm in any gear, it would be extremely difficult if not impossible to get into the next up, or even lower gear until I let the car settle down for a while.

For example: I do a 2nd gear pull to 6k rpm, try to go into 3rd but it wont, next I try to go into any gear and it still wont til I start to slow down. And once I do get into a gear, it makes a weird whining whrrrr noise.

Could this mean my synchros are going out?
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
I bet it is your clutch that is dragging.

Since it is happening in every gear, it would mean all the syncros are dieing.

Put you car on a flat parking lot, stop, put tranny in 1st, clutch pedal to the floor, and rev engine to red line, if the car try's to move, clutch is not adjusted properly or you have a dieing slave/master or a problem with the fork/pivot ball.
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
UPDATE:

Just tried the clutch dragging thing (going on flat land and revving it in 1st gear), car did not move at all. So it cant be the clutch dragging, what else could it be?
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
When shifting, does the tranny come out of gear and just won't go into the next or is it locked in the original gear until the revs fall?

If you just replaced the slave, it may be air in the lines. It can be a pain to get the thing bleed 100%.

I use the two man method, I also use clear fish tank air hose to watch the fluid pump out to make sure it is clean and air free. I use the positive pressure method by having the person in the car put pedal to floor and hold while I quickly release the bleeder and re-close fast.

The clutch pedal will not come back off the floor by itself this way, tie a rope to the pedal to pull it back up after the bleeder is closed again.

I do this a ton of times, then drive a few stop-n-go, then bleed again.

By far the worst thing about doing tranny work.
 

turbofonz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
467
Location
Granby, MA
Check trans-to-block bolts.
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
Yeah about that clear hose thing, how do you fit a wrench on the slave cylinder?! Its impossible and the only way I can bleed it is if I put a socket on it.
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
That is a bitch isn't.

I took a cheap wrench and bent it to just the right angle to give a 15 deg (give or take) turn.

It is not fun.
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
When shifting it kind of locks into the gear but I rev matched it so itll come out easier, and its impossible to get into the next gear, almost like im not stepping on the clutch

EDIT: Ill order a speed bleeder valve for the slave and see how that goes...

DOUBLE EDIT!: In response to the checking for the transmission to block bolts, is this what you mean??



Also, I was checking my clutch pedal for play and it seems to react instantly between when I push, and when the MC rod moves. My pedal would go down just a tiny bit before I felt the clutch engage and the only play I saw was where that U bracket thing from the MC would wiggle a little.
 
Last edited:

turbofonz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
467
Location
Granby, MA
That one bolt is nothing. The one above the slave is what we're looking for. 14mm. Also the 2 top 14mm's and the rear 12mm above the tcase (goes in opposite direction)

If they were loose though, you'd see the trans seperate from the block when you press the clutch so I think you're alright there.
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
Yeah I figured that bolt had nothing, I also checked all the tranny bolts I could. All of them seemed tight.


I did an experiment on the way home from work today giving me valuable info you guys might need to know.

Since this only happens on a WOT pull in any gear, I decided to do one in 3rd gear and ONLY step on the clutch after that.

To my surprise, the rpms dropped SLOW, and I mean slower than usual. This would be indicating clutch drag wouldnt it?

Like I said earlier, it passed the "put it in 1st gear and redline it on flatland to see if it moves" test and it did not move one inch.

So Im gonna follow what Terry said and bleed the piss out of my clutch, and order a new MC since when I was adjusting today, it seemed a tad bit wet..

Will update more tomorrow!
 
Last edited:

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
While you are under the dash, inspect the clutch pedal arms and pivot points. Make sure everything is tight. Worn pivot points cause intermittant issues as well.
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
So on the way home from work, clutch decides to act up 5 miles away from home. I bled the clutch in the parking lot about 15 times, slave travel seems normal, clutch feel seems normal. Will wait for the new master cylinder to come in.

Worst case scenario, its probably my pressure plate.

Will update as I go!
 

FCR

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2008
Messages
121
Location
Orlando, FL
Something similar happen to me once and it was my PP i'm not saying that it's ur case but maybe something to consider
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
Just replaced the master cylinder, still the same. Wont go into gear with the car on and I bled the clutch until my knuckles started bleeding lol.

Anyone else have any input on what it is before I start ripping the tranny for a new clutch/pp?

Also, all the pivot points on my clutch pedal are as tight as a whistle, the only part thats somewhat loose is the big hole with the cotter pin in the U-bracket that goes into the MC. But its only side to side wiggle play, non going in and out of the MC.
 
Last edited:

turbofonz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
467
Location
Granby, MA
I'm going to say clutch disk popped a spring or your TOB blew up.
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
Problem has been solved, old clutch disc popped a spring and a small piece of metal got wedged in between the clutch and flywheel.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top