running without a drive shaft?

I just got it back on the road and its making some knocking noises. I figure it must be the propeller shaft, a bearing probably. I dropped the rear subframe and replaced all the bushings with poly, new ball joints, and wheel bearings. I was warned that if there was any problem with my driveshaft that it would be more noticeable with poly bushings. I went with boostx softer bushings hoping for a good compromise. I'm at the point of buying the dss aluminum shaft and replacing the one carrier bearing left and using the solid bearing mounts. It's a few hundred more than a completely rebuilt factory shaft. Being there are three yolks 2 bearings, and that thing with grease in it I can't recall atm.
What problems will I encounter not running a d shaft while I save up and decide which route to go? Im thinking the t case might leak without a yoke to help seal it?

 

[yeti]

dumping fluid out your transfercase

 

[rdomeck]

You can't do this. It will burn up your viscous coupler in the transmission.......

 

[turbowop]

Unless he has a welded center diff.

 

I thought stock was open? But I imagine I will lose the little fluid that is in the t case...

 

Oh, and I'm fairly certain its a dsm powertrain...

 

[toybreaker]

Quoting rdomeck:
You can't do this. It will burn up your viscous coupler in the transmission.......



^^^ This

In addition, you'll put a hurting on the center diff thrustwashers.

I would strongly recommend you don't try it.

 

Ok, I won't do it, can anyone confirm running poly bushings and not having noises? I don't mind a slight harshness increase, but the un nerving noises aren't cool. Never had them before the bushes

 

[yeti]

Why not take off transfercase??

I think you can run that, but then again dont quote me on it because im /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[desant78]

^Its late, but same problems as mentioned so no just removing t case wont help, still a really bad move.

 

ok guys, I'll do it right, I found another drive shaft, I hope it's good. If not, f*** this car! Sorry, I've put a ridiculous amount of time and money into this car. As I imagine most of you have as well, but damn, I feel like I'm failing...

 

[Barnes]

If you *really* want to rule out the rear drive train you could buy a VCE (Viscous Coupler Eliminator) install it, remove the t-case, and propeller shaft. Only THEN could you drive the car around to diagnose the noises in the fashion it appears you want to.

 

again, I'm not sure I have a viscous front. Wasn't the stock an open?

 

[yeti]

Quoting yeti:
Why not take off transfercase??

I think you can run that, but then again dont quote me on it because im /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif



click

google finds everything..

 

[yeti]

Quoting 1971:
ok guys, I'll do it right, I found another drive shaft, I hope it's good. If not, f*** this car! Sorry, I've put a ridiculous amount of time and money into this car. As I imagine most of you have as well, but damn, I feel like I'm failing...



please don't f*** this car, trust me it will be worth it, especially dont let it go when all it needs is a driveshaft, sh*t theres one at the junkyard if the one you get doesent work, but then again shipping will be a bitch

 

[Jason G.]

Quoting Barnes:
If you *really* want to rule out the rear drive train you could buy a VCE (Viscous Coupler Eliminator) install it, remove the t-case, and propeller shaft. Only THEN could you drive the car around to diagnose the noises in the fashion it appears you want to.




+1

 

[Barnes]

Quoting 1971:
again, I'm not sure I have a viscous front. Wasn't the stock an open?



No no no. The viscous coupler (VC) has nothing to do with the front or rear differentials. The VC is part of the AWD system inside the transmission. It tries to ensure that the front and rear wheels are turning the same total speed. I.E. if the rear wheels slip, it makes sure that the fronts are still getting power. The VC works by using various layers of plates inside a housing with very thick viscous fluid. It is a hydraulic coupler. The problem is that if you try to force it to work too hard (e.g. removing your propeller shaft) it will get hot and ruin the fluid inside. Additionally as Toybreaker rightfully pointed out, your *center* differential (open) starts spinning way too fast. Normally the spider gears inside the center diff are static relative to each other. However when you are in a situation where the front and rear wheels are spinning at different total speeds, the spider gears inside the center diff will spin (slowly) as needed to allow for this. This is essentially the same exact way your front or rear diff acts in a turn. But when you disconnect the rear drive shaft, and the VC can't stay 100% locked up, those gears inside the center diff start to spin VERY fast. It's not designed for it, and you end up ruining the center diff and perhaps your entire transmission.

What the VCE does is remove the VC and provide 100% lockup therefore ensuring that the center diff spider gears don't spin. It effectively turns your car into FWD. At that point you can remove the transfer case and propeller shaft to eliminate it as a culprit for noise if you want to take extreme measures.

 

I swapped the d shaft, with one that looks much more worn out. The noises are still there. I'm thinking its just something I have to deal with running the poly rear subframe bushings. Im running the softer version from boostx. But o was warned that they would make the drivetrain louder.
Who's running poly subframe bushings? Tell me about your experiences?

 

What about the carrier bearing mounts? They are rubber and look fine, but... Could that cause noise?

 

[donkeylips]

I once received a transmission from a car that had been flat towed with the front axles in but no transfer case. I haven't had a problem with it yet. And it even shifts better than all of my others. Of course I still wouldn't recommend doing this on purpose.