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Rear steering rack repair (Finally)


Well-known member
Dec 1, 2010
Brisbane, QLD

As most vr4 owners are aware if there is a problem with the rear rack (Leaking or doesn't work, etc) the first option is to delete the system. Some people will argue that the car will handle better with or without. In my instance i never have felt AWS and now after this simple fix, i will understand why it works. For some, deleting may not be an option or don't want to go through the hassle of cutting/blocking lines or swapping to a DSM rack, some find a replacement from a donor vr4. Now i did my research on this and went through pros and cons for days until deciding keeping the AWS is what i want. While installing my new swaybar i squeezed the boot on one end of the rack and out came Power steering fluid. This instantly told me why i never had felt the AWS or the reason it felt loose and unpredictable over sweeping corners.

My options were:
1. Buy a new rack from Mitsubishi (japan import) $1200
2. See what a power steering shop could do (they have no listing for it and when shown, was told it was a throw away item)
3. Rebuild the rack with no information on how to disassemble or a repair kit available.
4. AWS delete

I did not get pictures of the tie rod ends and boot disassemble because that's all pretty straight forward. This fix is ONLY to fix the fluid from leaking out of the rack, this doesn't include where to find rack ends and the clips to hold the rack ends in place. Boots can be found universally, same with tie rod ends.

Once you have reached the stage where you have both rack ends off, on the fluid side of the rack, at the end you will see 2 holes to fit a tool into. There would be a Mitsubishi tool for this but i don't have one. Confused on how this end came off please excuse the marks on the case now, my loss your gain. The end is threaded on, you can use a vice and turn the rack or find/make a tool to fit these holes. One UN-threaded you will see an o-ring, nothing special about it, go down to your local store and buy it out of a kit.

Once off the rack can slide out from that side. Inside the piece you have taken off there will be a seal inside, this is the seal you will need to replace, look down inside the housing and you will see the same seal down the bottom. This one is tricky and is exactly the same, use a pick to try and pry it out. On the rack you will see the piston seal. These seals are not readily available and can't be ordered/matched easily. I left mine, it will only mean that fluid can pass through to the other side but will still be contained in that part of the rack because of the two seals you are replacing. Once those are replaced, no more leaks! this will stop fluid running down the rack out the other side too (where my leak was) at both ends of the rack you will see rubber bushings as such *DO NOT REMOVE THESE* I doubt there is a replacement out there for these but because the rear rack doesn't have a way of setting load on the rack like the front, these bushings are put there to keep the rack from wobbling around. Replace the seals and the o-ring, assemble and your done! this will stop your leak. For others wanting to go further and try to replace rack ends, bushings, boots etc that's at your risk but i don't think its necessary as the rear rack does not see as much movement as the front rack and wear on the rack is minimal.

These seals were matched at a power steering shop, they cost me $60. This is all the rack consists of to stop the leaks (minus the piston seal)

Hope this helps! i haven't seen anything on the rear rack to date.
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