Rear brake question(fixed) and fixed again!

[MMorgan]

I was changing rotors and pads today and noticed my right rear caliper slider was bent. It causes the inside pad to wear at an angle and dig into the rotor and cause a bad grinding noise. I don't have any spare calipers or brackets so I was just going to bolt it back together until I could fix it. Unfortunately, the bolt that holds the caliper to the bracket broke off so now I can't bolt the caliper down. I hate catching the bus...

My question:

will a 1g TSI AWD rear caliper and bracket fit on the galant? are they the same? my brother has a 91 tsi awd chassis that he can take the part off of and give to me tomorrow. any assistance is appreciated!

 

[autobahntom]

1g awd and GVR4 rear calipers are the same.

 

[MMorgan]

what about the bracket?

 

same.
they are practically the same car, just different bodies

 

[MMorgan]

rear brakes fixed, problem not solved. My right rear rotor was very bad and the pad was digging into it but it wasn't the cause of the noise coming from the right rear of the car.


***SAME PROBLEM***

Needs a different solution since its not the brakes. the noise sounds like a bad grinding sound. it happens on beat, but it doesn't sound like it happens once every rotation, maybe 1 time every 2 or 3 tire rotations. Sounds like the wheel is going to fall off. It obviously something that moves in the back since it happens on beat only when the car is moving and speeds up with the car. you can also feel it in the car.

Can the rear wheel bearing get this bad? the brakes(rotors, pads and RR caliper) are new in the rear now so the only things i can think it would be are the axle or wheel bearing. It definitely on the right rear though. any ideas? suggestion? experiences?

 

Dust shield isnt hitting the rotor, is it?

 

[MMorgan]

no, i took the wheel back off and made sure the dust shield wasn't hitting.

 

[Ted Andkilde]

Put her on stands in neutral -- or (better) lift the corner you want to check, unbolt the outer end of the axle and spin and rock the wheel, any play or "rocks in a garbage can" sounds and it's time to change the wheel bearings.

Did mine a couple of months back -- you need a slide hammer and an impact wrench, hammer & big punch. If you have access to a press to remove the cremains of the old bearings and install the new ones its cake -- if not there's a bit of swearing and fiddling with a vice. About an hour a side with the right tools.


Cheers, Ted

 

[MMorgan]

is it safe to drive with messed up wheel bearings? I work at goodyear and the mechanics might be able to tackle this. I know there is a press against the wall, not sure if it is the right one for the job.

i work about 5 miles from my house. the noise is pretty bad. bad enough that it threw me into action to change my brakes. I just don't want it to lock up or have the wheel fall off. If its safe to drive with this terrible noise, then i will drive to work tomorrow and see what they can do for me.

opinions on driving it like this?

 

[atc250r]

5 miles should be fine. I've driven some cars with really f'ed up wheel bearings for a lot more than that.

John

 

[marvinmadman]

I have seen some where the bearing welds itself inside the hub and on the axle and sh*t! New hub equals more problems.

 

[MMorgan]

took it to work today and got it on the lift, its the wheel bearing in the right rear. We ordered them today and they will be there tomorrow. 1.5 hours labor for them to get put in, i should get a discount on labor though.

withing the last few day, new rear brakes and test drive... grinding there = new wheel bearings. on the way to work today the clutch slipped! DAMN IT!

i hate my life.

 

heh, life in vr4's isnt too bad.
In a month i had to get a new turbo, new tires, new brakes, my windscreen cracked, found rust on my floorpan, remapped ecu for turbo, then my clutch went, pulled gearbox off, found flywheel was rooted, found ALL my front cv boots were rooted, and then more family issues to top it all off.
Just look at the bright side, your still here! and you have a primo car to play with.

 

[MMorgan]

right rear wheel bearings fixed. I let the mechanics at my shop do it. Now that i've seen it done, I didn't look to bad. If I ever need it done again, i'll do it myself. the 2 wheel bearings(inner/outer) were $35 using the shops discount and labor was 1.5 hours but i got a 15% discount on that so it was only $103. If someone wrote a vfaq up on this, it would save a lot of people money because its definitely not too hard to do.

the inner bearing wasn't bad but the outer bearing was missing a few of them and it was bad. I will take pictures when i can.

 

[Nijasan]

I could use a vfaq on it. I cussed at a hub for an hour or two a few weekends ago and gave up. I don't have any access to any special tools though.

 

[Ted Andkilde]

Quote:
I could use a vfaq on it. I cussed at a hub for an hour or two a few weekends ago and gave up. I don't have any access to any special tools though.



No pictures to back it up but here goes...

1) Remove brake caliper, pad carrier and rotor (AllData also says to remove wheel speed sensor -- my ABS is is disabled and my sensor wouldn't come out so I left it).

2) Unbolt outer CV from the axle cup (the three three or four bolts that make your rear-end a three or four bolt).

3) Push axle out of the way, remove the large nut & washer that holds the axle cup (22mm?) with an impact wrench.

4) Attach a slide hammer (be sure to tighten the wheel nuts well or it won't work) to the outer stub-axle face. (If you don't have a slide hammer they're about $40 at Harbor Freight).

5) Beat the thing until you're blue in the face, take a breather, beat on it some more, get a drink, keep beating on it til it comes out, collapse in a heap.

6) Get a big drift or punch and pound out the inner bearing, then the outer race of the outer bearing if it didn't come out with the stub-axle.

7) Knock the outer bearing and ABS ring off in the press.

8) Press the new outer bearing and the ABS ring back onto the stub-axle in the press (always push on the inner race -- you'll toast the bearing before you install it if you press on the outer race) they each have their own shoulder to press up to.

9) Clean up the hub with some emery cloth and slip the inner bearing in place (it won't fully seat by hand) slip the stub-axle back in place and if the washer and locknut will start, smoothly but firmly tighten it until the bearings are drawn fully into place.

10) Remove the nut and washer.

11) Pry the old seal out the axle cup and install the new one, carefully, with a big socket and a hammer.

12) Fit the axle cup in place and replace the big locknut and washer. I fully tightened mine with an impact on medium -- I recommend you find the torque spec and tighten it by hand with a torque wrench -- you'll have to put the wheel back on and set the car on the ground for this, I was up on a lift and lazy.

13) Refit the axle, refit the brakes and you're done.

Cheers, Ted