Racing Brake Duct Pics

I've had a few questions from various members on how I did the brake ducts...so here are some pics to work from. Remember this is a race car only so I'm not into show, only GO!

I used three 1" hoses on the driver's side, one 3" on the passenger's side ... with the engine in the way clearance is a problem on the driver's side.







And a NACA Duct I installed for my newest project... a Gear Oil cooler for the tranny, more pics to come on this project as the parts arrive.

 

[kartorium]

When you get the parts together on the tranny cooler setup can you give us a rundown on how you're making it? What parts, etc? Those NACA ducts are handy dandy eh...Looks like fun /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

I've ordered all the parts and got half of them...the rest show up this week. Once I've got it together and working I'll provide a parts list and pictures.

Just in case some of you are wondering what kinda brakes are on it:

TCE Wilwood 13.1" x 1.10" Rotors with BSL6n calipers and Porterfield R4-E Pads

 

[467]

Great looking NASA duct installation. Where did you get it from?

Thanks,

Ward

 

[kartorium]

check any racer supply house...... racerparts wholesale, pegasus racing, etc

 

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm

D105 is the model I used with some modification and should work good to get enough air to the gear oil cooler to be installed inside that fender well.

I ordered another one from Pegasus, but this one came first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

Very nice.

 

[467]

Thanks,

That will save me some time.

Ward

Quote:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/naca.htm

D105 is the model I used with some modification and should work good to get enough air to the gear oil cooler to be installed inside that fender well.

I ordered another one from Pegasus, but this one came first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[curtis]

How are you building the fuild cooler assembly?
what type of pump are you using to move the fuild?
What type of fuild are you running?
GIVE OUT SOME SPECS WHEN YOUR DONE.
Nice duct by the way.

 

[CP]

I've got a front rotor question.

I've currently got two sets of pads (P-field R4S for street, R4 for track) and one set of slotted Brembo rotors. I'm trying to decide if I need to spend $200 on a spare set of track-only rotors.

I used my 4000 mile old slotted Brembo street rotors the other weekend at the race track with newly bedded R4 pads. The rotors glazed over with the new pad material, and it's been a bitch to get off. I had next to no initial bite last weekend at the autocross with the street pads back on. Pad material needs to be transferred to the rotor in order for the brakes optimally bite. So I've got race pad material on the rotors, but am using the street pad compound. They're slowly turning nice and shiny silver again.

However I've got another track event at the end of the month. This track will require much heavier use of the brakes than the last track. I'm trying to determine if I need to use a spare set of rotors for track-only use. In other words, is there something I can do while swapping between pads to take old pad material off the rotor, like sanding them with a drill disc or something?

 

CP, check out this page:

Cornwell Tools Air Tool Accessories

Check out the Surface Preparation Kits - either MA-63328 or MA-63330. I used these last weekend to clean up an iron exhaust manifold, turbo flanges and aluminum thermostat housing. They work REALLY well. That'll probably take the transfer layer off of the rotors.

If you look on the right-hand column, you can buy the discs separately, but don't forget the holder (Power-Lock Disc Holder).

twkd

 

whered you get the brake parts from? what part numbers and how much? id ont like to do my own leg work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[CP]

Thanks twkd. Think an 18v drill will be enough to spin those effectively?

Is that question about the parts for me?

 

Ya, 18V drill should be fine.

twkd

 

Couple of thoughts:

Ducsting can be had from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. This is CAT or SCAT ducting which is better than most you'll get at other supply stores. They also sell trim or mounting rings which are rolled for the OD ducting required. Very nice part to clamp the hose to and then rivet to something.

With regard to the ducts shown however you'd be FAR better off to properly place the duct outlet where it will be more effective- down tight at the wheel bearing and rotor minor diameter. The use of air blowing openly on a caliper or rotor as this is now will lead to temperature inbalance and thus uneven pad wear, rotor wear and bite. Possibly cracking. By placing the outlet down at the rotor center the air is pumped into the vanes and better used to cool the entire package more evenly.

 

Todd...completely agree and actually advised another member of the same earlier this week. Only problem is fabricating the spindle ducts/brackets you speak off. You build them and I will buy them!!! So far these have been adequate to keep the fade away and keep the rotors from cracking. If you don't make them maybe someone else on the list can fab some up and sell me a set.

Thanks,
CJ

 

I posted to the How To section, awaiting Moderator approval for complete setup...but the Gear Oil cooler is done /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

LOL, oh I never said it was easy!

We went through a batch of ideas on the old Bondurant SHO's back about 15 years ago now. We never did hit on a final solution that really held its place. Between the suspension's ups and down, turning, and throw in an axle with a CV boot.... the whole thing's a pain in the ass.

 

Wouldn't it be possible to make some kind of small nozzle that would mount just his currect duct but direct the air down toward the bearing? Almost like a nozzle attachment for a shop vac?

 

[CP]

I'm about to bite on 20 feet of 1.5" hose, two lengths per side. I think I'll need around 3-4' per hose length. Now I need to figure out:

a) how to attach two hoses to the one duct in the front bumper, with some sort of splitter
b) how to route the hoses back towards the brakes.
c) how to attach the hoses near the hub and point them in a generally desireable direction.

I'm thinking more and more that I may butcher up my existing dust shields. Draw a circle where I want the hose to attach, drill out a little bit in the middle, and then make cuts/striations out to the edge. Then bend these flaps in, trim, and attach the hose flanges to those with rivets. Otherwise the dust shield needs to be completely removed, as it covers most of the rotor on the inside. Thoughts?

More close-ups of the hub and hose-end area would be very helpful. On the passenger side, did you do any cutting? There's a piece of metal that the bumper support bolts to, and maybe a horn or something (I didn't look too closely yesterday) that appears to be in the way for a direct route for the hose from the bumper to the wheelwell.