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Question on removal of 2 exhaust hanger bolts

PJGross

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2002
Messages
1,561
Location
Lake Orion, MI
So I'm getting #490/1000 back on the road. Its been on jackstands for 8 years or so in my garage.
Just finished going through oil, coolant, all plumbing, IC piping, put on the front bumper and closed the hood for the first time in that long.
Brakes are bled, new rotors/pads, and front wheels on.
I borrowed several gas cans from neighbor and a pump. Will pump out old gas, fill up with premium fresh gas.

I am re-doing the exhaust myself as the one that was "built" for me years ago was crap.

Have Megan DP that I fit to my oldschool T3/T04E FP turbo and custom O2 housing. I just fabbed a center section with a straight through muffler, and now I am going to mate it with a second hand catback pipe and Vibrant dual tip muffler.

Well, guy who worked on this car liked to rip off bolts. The very back exhaust hanger was no exception.

Both bolts are sheared flush with the frame holes.

I have a harbor freight flux core 110A welder, so it isn't very pretty and I don't think I can built up a puddle upside down to weld onto the sheared off bolts.

EZ-outs: I have snapped off too many and don't like that approach as I have never had success.

I was going to drill out the bolts through the center and use bigger bits until I just barely hit the existing threads, then retap with a 8M x 1.25 tap. Would this work?

I figured I would ask first before starting to drill. Of course I will go slow and use lots of lube...

Ideas are welcome,

-PJ
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,202
Location
central Indiana
Can't answer your exhaust question, but the tank has a drain bolt. Don't need to pump it out.
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,202
Location
central Indiana
I used mine a few years ago after it sat awhile. Just don't force anything. It should come off.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
PJ, your suggested method for removal of the old bolt and re-tapping is how I often do them. Keeping it straight down the middle is the trick. I sometimes grind the bolt remnant flatter if possible where it is, and then use a center punch to start the drill bit.

I live in your area now and work in Farmington Hills.
 
Last edited:

PJGross

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2002
Messages
1,561
Location
Lake Orion, MI
Wow, that's cool that there is someone else around here! We've been in Lake Orion since 2003.

I will center punch them, good call! It seems like I will have enough room to drill 'em and then retap.
I was surprised at how big the drill bit is for the 8mm 1.25 tap... I will try to use a size or two down and get the old crap out of there.


I have been really absent the board the last 12 years or so. Coincidentally my oldest is 12....

I've just decided its time to get her back on the road and do something with it. I've said it several times before, but never got this far with it!

-PJ
 

Dan D

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2001
Messages
1,171
Location
Brownsburg, IN
Broken M8 bolt for something that can't get out and up on to the Bridgeport - my typical approach:

1. Spray with penetrant oil - let sit, spray again
2. Die grinder or dremel with a burr/stone/diamond depending on what's left sticking out - shooting for a flatish surface
3. Prick punch, use a light, scale, and magnifier to check if your on center - adjust your prick mark until centered
4. Center punch you located prick punch mark
5. Heat it
6. For M8 (minor diam = ~.262") use a 1/4" left hand drill and drill through - maybe you get lucky and comes out
7. Go up to 17/64 and drill through - barely kisses the threads - see if you can pick out what left without drilling any more
8. If not - re-drill M8x1.25 tap size for a 75% thread (letter H); tap with a high quality HSS tap and move on with your day /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

(HF left hand drill bits work pretty well for the minor cost of them)
Drills and taps - look elsewhere. Buy quality HSS for hand drilling. For through holes - gun taps (spiral point taps) are where it's at.
 

PJGross

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2002
Messages
1,561
Location
Lake Orion, MI
So I cleaned up the exposed part, punched it, and drilled it.
Regular bits, worked way up to the size that comes with the dewalt M8 1.25 tap.

I almost grabbed the tap marked M8 1.25 that was much bigger: This is for M8 helicoils. I put red tape on that one and put it back in the box...

Anyway, drilled out the old bolts, and tapped and I think for the application it will be just fine.

However, I like the idea of using left handed drill bits for next time.

I will have to look up all the language on taps. I didn't know there were differences. Thank you for the info!

-PJ
 
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