Problem with new dealer key?

[scooter]

I somehow managed to lose my only key for the vr4 while it was down. Im back to working on it now, and cant get it pushed outside to spray off for the wheel being cut and locked. I searched around and found you could buy them new from the dealer. Well I picked one up today, for it to only work nothing. It will fit in everything, but works nothing. I know new keys suck, so was wondering if this is the only option? Im not wanting to have to fight with my key every time i go to start it or unlock something. I hate keys that you have to jiggle to make work. Can I buy a new oem one, or is the dealer made the only option you get? Anybody else ever have this problem? Thanks in advance.

 

[atc250r]

The dealer goes off of the key code that was assigned to that car from the factory (the factory original key actually has the code stamped into it). If someone changed the locks on the car then that code in Mitsu's system will be useless. You'll probably have to take a lock cylinder out and bring it to a locksmith to have a key made.

John

 

[scooter]

The car was bone stock when I got it. Original key fob and all. I dont think all locks and ignition have been changed. I think its because the dealer cut it just like ace hardware would cut it. Its just an oem key, with a normal average cutting. Ive never had good luck with cut keys. They never work as good as they original. I was just hoping I might could order an original for it. Its got me about totally frustrated though. They act like they might want to work, just dont work. I can even move the door lock with it, but im afraid ill bend the key trying to make it unlock. Thanks for the reply.

 

[G]

You could try hitting it with a wire brush to knock down some of the sharp edges, dealer should have done this. If that doesn't work take it back & have them make you another one.

 

[atc250r]

I worked in Mitsu dealers for about 8 years, I rarely had a problem with one of the keys made with the "key gun". Either they cut the key wrong or the locks have been changed. If the car was ever stolen it is very possible that the locks have been changed.

John

 

[scooter]

Well I went back out and tried it again. Somebody told me to try it both ways, so I gave it a shot. I tried the ignition first both ways, driver door lock both ways, and then the trunk lock both ways with nothing. I for some reason then went back to the ignition just for the hell of it. It acted as if it wanted to turn, so I kept messing with it and finally got it to turn the ignition on. It wasnt easy, but worked. I then went back to the door lock. After a minute or two I managed to get it to unlock the door. Once again, was not easy, but it unlocked. I still cant get it to lock the door no matter what. I cant get the trunk to open either with it. It might just need brushed.

When you say rarely, what was the outcome if you did? Did a new key have to be made, or did it just need a good brushing? Im just wondering if I should have them make me a new one, or just work with this. Thanks for the quick replies.

 

[atc250r]

I would first try a quick brushing or maybe even a quick filing but that was just because I worked at the place that made it. If I were a customer I would go in and tell them they need to cut me another one since they screwed it up the first time.

John

 

[dsmer06]

+1 on using a wire brush. I had to buy a new key for my 95 talon, and it would do the same thing as yours till I told my dad and he used the brush. From then on it worked perfect.

 

[Turbo4door1]

Also, lubricate the locks and ignition. Graphite powder is the best, but simply spraying WD-40 in the tumblers will work in a pinch. My new keys - way back when I bought the car - were very abrasive feeling in the tumblers too. Some shots of WD-40 in the cylinders smoothed it right out though.

Good luck.

 

[scooter]

Thanks for all the replies. Im going to get them to cut me one more, then ill start working with that one. Ill pick up some graphite powder also while im out. Thanks again.

 

[G]

Fyi the graphite i've seen usually is mixed with a carrier, some type of liquid that dries & leaves the graphite behind.

 

[Rausch]

I would imagine that the difference is just the wear on the key/cylinders. They have a habit of rounding out over time, and the tumbler and key kind of conform to each other in that respect.

You did have it cut from the VIN, yes? That would be the difference.

 

[Brunoboy]

from what I know, my homeboys Civic was the same, he lost his only key, the reason is that if you lose that key they have to remake it with a punch. and If you redue it, it may not fit because the lock itself may have worn out so the grooves are different.

 

I was going to suggest cylinder wear, but VRausch4 beat me to the punch. On this note though, I only have one key for my VR4, so I'm thinking of having a couple of keys cut using the "broken in" key as a template, think these might work a bit better?

 

[Brunoboy]

yup^^

 

[atc250r]

If you think about it logically, as the tumblers wear they actually need a key that has "higher" ridges than a new factory key would have in order to push them to where they need to go.

John

 

[iceman69510]

I have code-cut lots of new keys for my 5 Mitsus I have owned. It didn't happen everytime, but sometimes the keys were difficult to use immediately. A little break-in did help. I always wire brushed them too.

Lube never hurts either.

 

Yeah, I would suggest lightly running over the sharp edges with sand paper. That worked for me

 

The keys I had the dealer cut from my VIN were very hard to use as well, and I eventually went back to using the aftermarket key that came with the car. The OEM key blanks were made of some very shitty metal, despite their beefy heft and appearance. All the dealer keys I had eventually twisted themselves into a sort of spiral shape after using them. I think having keys cut to fit the lock cylinders in the car is the way to go.