Priming motor that hasn't run in a while

[jepherz]

I'm putting the motor back together in a car that hasn't run in 5 years. I just put the head on after it got back from the machine shop and am HOPING that the bottom end is fine. I tried to run a cordless drill on the oil pump for a few minutes and there was no sight of oil at the top anywhere in the head.

Is this normal while priming the oil pump with a drill or should I expect to see some oil showing at the head? If so, what could the problem be? The oil pump pulley is rotating the balance shaft, etc. so I'm clueless!

 

[Terry Posten]

It took quite a while to get oil up to the lifters on my new motor. I just kept the drill running until I saw oil.

You may want to fill the oil filter up at least 1/2 way with oil before you spin it on.

The motor I put in Kevins car had sat for 1.5 years and I ended up removing one of the "allen head" plugs in the filter housing and used a large fluid pump to inject oil directly into the pump and filter to get it to prime.

Make sure you spin the oil pump clockwide.

Good luck.

 

[3rdstrikedsm]

^^ If you have a spare intake manifold unscrew the nipple that the brake booster line goes to and it will screw right in to the filter housing and then use a suction pump.

That will avoid removeal of the timing belt.

 

[jepherz]

I figured that may be the case, Terry, but how long are we talking? I probably ran the drill for a good 1.5-2 minutes (about 500 rpm) and saw nothing. I guess the good news is the oil came out the filter housing when I unscrewed it, so maybe it just needs more time?

 

[Brianawd]

Do what Terry said. If you are still having problems just squeeze some oil into the oil filter housing plug you took out. Now Run the drill in reverse. That will suck the oil you just squeezed in into the gears and will prime it. Then put the drill in forward and wait tell you see oil coming out that same hole. Once you see oil coming out put plug back in and finish priming the rest of the motor.

 

[Polish]

Only took mine about a minute or so to make pressure, I used a big drill though. 500rpm may not be enough to build sufficient pressure, what did the gauge show? (If you have one)

Did the idiot light at least go out?


I used a corded drill, the cordless didn't have enough balls.

 

[GVR4_1057]

I run my drill WFO which is more like 2 to 3000 RPM. It still takes a couple of minutes. You will have little oil fountains at the head when you are done.

 

[jepherz]

Quoting Polish:
Only took mine about a minute or so to make pressure, I used a big drill though. 500rpm may not be enough to build sufficient pressure, what did the gauge show? (If you have one)

Did the idiot light at least go out?


I used a corded drill, the cordless didn't have enough balls.



Not sure on the light as the car didn't have power. Looks like the car has a DSM oil filter housing, though, because it has an OEM pressure gauge sender. I wasn't reading any variance in resistance of either that or the dummy light sender though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

You guys are giving me hope, hopefully the drill just isn't fast enough to work quickly. I'll be trying the above mentioned suggestions tonight.

 

[Armitage]

One way to get the oil pump primed is to remove the stock idiot light pressure sender and screw in a threaded bung (1/8 BSPT IIRC). You can just remove the PCV port from the intake manifold and screw that sucker in there. Get out the Mityvac and apply suction till oil starts filling your bottle. Took me about 2 minutes of constant pumping the Mity... Put the idiot light sender back in with teflon tape then spin the pump, you'll have oil up in the head in no time.

 

[jepherz]

Well, everything I checked at the oil filter housing had oil. But, I kept the drill running for several minutes, probably closer to 5, and eventually saw oil! Thanks guys.

 

[iceman69510]

Revival time.

So, I tried getting my engine started today. I cranked it with no plugs and no injectors. Can't seem to get the oil light to extinguish. I didn't have this problem on the last engine I put together. What exactly is the problem, getting the oil pulled up the pickup to the pump?

I don't have a mityvac, but I have a vacuum brake bleeder. Think that will work in the oil light port like Armitage stated here?

 

[Terry Posten]

I would not trust the oil light.

Take the valve cover off and crank it while watching for oil to come out of the lifters.

Once you see oil, start her up.

 

[jepherz]

The oiling system should produce about what, 10 psi for every 1000 RPM, right? You're cranking the car at about 200 RPM? That would tell me you're only producing a few PSI which is probably expected to trigger the oil light? Just a thought.

 

[iceman69510]

Update today. Warm enough to tolerate working outside, so I hooked up my Vacula brake bleeder and attached it to the filter housing with a fitting in the oil pressure light sender hole. I pulled on it a few minutes til I had some oil present in the tube. Pulled the fitting out and reinstalled the light sender. Cranked it over for a few seconds more and I had oil pressure and the light was out.

Put everything back together and cranked it with compression but still no fuel or spark, til I had good oil pressure.

Then, it started right up. I am so relieved. Now I can put the rest of the bottom of the car (t/c, exhaust, axles, etc.) back together.

That is all.

 

[Barnes]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif