Newbie needs Christmas miracle for new Vr4

[92GVR4num65]

Dang Sounds like if that owner had the car anylonger, it would b completely hopeless to do anything but a complete restoration....props on "saving" her....neway, most auto parts stores should have stock wheel studs and if the tires have that kind of wear from this car then it might be time to look into some new wheel bearings or ball joints....new wheel bearing sets will come w new studs. Im not sure if you can use 1g TEL ones....i wouldnt see why not.

Heres a Vacuum line Diagram

and i believe the vacuum line ur talking about (comes out of the valve cover side of the intake mani, about midway) goes to the BOV...Hope this helps.

 

[92GVR4num65]

Sorry, i fail...i realized pic included was for TEL....GVR4 had an extra T off the WG line....this one shows said extra T....

 

[iLLeffeKt vr-4]

Good job on rescuing her and trying to fix it up. But I want to know who the hell had that car before you?

 

A complete and total TOOL. The guy owned a back-ally "shop" in Philly that had crap everywhere, a stripped 1G DSM out in front, and a beautiful set of Harbor Freight tools in his toolbox. I think it was a legitimate business where people actually brought cars to him to repair.

I'll be helping out as best I can with this GVR-4 resurrection. Hopefully I can bring some of my knowledge over from my 3000GT VR-4 days...

 

[desant78]

Quoting iLLeffeKt vr-4:
Good job on rescuing her and trying to fix it up. But I want to know who the hell had that car before you?



Just like Wombat said...guy is a horrible man. When I picked up the car this "mechanic" asked if I had a 12mm socket because he didn't have one (we are at his "shop") to tighten a bolt on the fuel rail. Which upon inspection at home was now stripped out. This guy claimed my car as is was a 12 second car...only needing tires. Which i knew was not true. Also when I mentioned what he used to tune, he claimed that DSMLink or similar programs are for cars that want to 9s quarter miles and not necessary unless it's a race car for such speed. He was not a mechanic I'd recommend.

Today I am addressing the spindles trying to get them off so i can replace the studs. I have the ABS spindles so I need to remove them from the knuckle. Is this possible to do? It is not coming easily at all, and I am afraid they are one piece and not meant to separate. Any input on this?

thanks in advance!

 

yo man how did you make out with those studs?


also any word on that translator? if you want you can get my ## of Jon G. when you see him

 

[desant78]

Okay everyone....here's a long awaited update along with a cry for HELP.

I've got tires, correct rims! new front knuckles...cuz of the stripped studs. I'm so close to getting her on the road.....

Installed the stock intercooler, stock injectors, 1g MAF, stock intake, and stock intercooler piping. I plugged directly into the 1g plug and the car idled at 2k until it came down to 1500 rpm and would just die. I re-did the fitting for the elbow on the throttle body and found one more opening that needed to be plugged. Once I did this, the car idles at 800 to 900 rpm! Unfortunately it is misfiring very badly....

any input? would any leaks cause the misfiring? what should I be looking for next? try to get some brainstorming here..I do have an ungraded fuel pump, but not sure what one. I do want to point out when it idled at 2k it was firing very smooth. Now when I got up to 2k it was still misfiring.

help please!

 

[desant78]

checked plugs....which were soaked with fuel. Switched out plugs thanks to the abundance of parts Wombat gave me.

Now the car is idling at 2k...very rich. Car started up instantly though. Any suggestions? tried idle adjustment screw got down to 1.8k.

 

[desant78]

hello everyone

So I hooked up a pocket logger, and noticed that I was getting no coolant temp readings. Looked on the manual, and then the car (was not at all connected) and got the dash coolant gauge to work along with the logger to register the coolant temp. The car claims real fast that the engine is at 253 degrees, but the temperature gauge on the dash is at roughly 1/4 "hot". Also the timing is around 37 degrees. Car still idles at 2.1K.

Fuel pressure is at 30. Checked the ISC ( or IAC ) and the it gives a resistance of 40 ohms.

Tightened up and checked vacuums which seem fine.

Suggestions of where else to look?

Tomorrow will adjust timing....and keep trying from there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

once again help is greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

[desant78]

with the engine hot the lowest ISC value I got was 40. This was when the pocket logger was above 250 degF and the dash gauge was at 1/4.

thought more info might help my cause....

 

[desant78]

does anyone know what throttle position should be at idle? I am at 14%. Also what is the timing the comes stock?

 

Tps ideally should be at are close to zero when idling but I have never seen it my car idles perfectly at 850rpms tps@10% the more important thing is to make sure its @100% at wot and as far as your base timing goes you should be at 5 degrees it will show up as 8-10 degrees on your logger though so don't go crazy. As far as adjusting the biss screw make sure you did it the way it's recommended here click just turning it either way without grounding wont really affect anything as the ecu will fight you all the way and not set correctly.Good luck.
D

 

Looks like it's coming along nicely........

 

[desant78]

thank you for the suggestions....I will go through the procedure to make sure i adjust the screw properly.

almost ALL the factory wires were cut..so now I am piecing together the sensors back. I live in NJ and it is a 28 degF day. My temp sensor starts at 10ish and head up to 15. When I plug what seems to be the sensor for the dash gauge, i get 5degf (and also it shots up to 250degf very fast).

I am now trying to wire up the sensors...I tried using a 1g DSM manual but I think that led me down the wrong path.....next is to find the manual.

Also next is a very hardcore leak test, along with a IAC wombat is giving to compare with later today. And testing to see if my TPS is reading....if i touch the wire it goes to 3% randomly.


.....even the lights for the dash aren't working..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

any tips on a leak down test, TPS sensor test would be appreciated, and more info on idle too. I'm going to try and adjust the screw properly but I am open to all possible solutions.

Thanks in advance.

 

Gonna add some info. The engine has no lower timing cover, which has the timing degree marks, so currently can't put it into base timing mode and adjust the CAS. Have to go off of what the logger is reading, even though that's not the way it should be done. The wire on the TPS seems very sensitive and is not very secure. It's missing the metal clip that goes into the plastic connector to secure it. In fact, I think every metal clip is missing on this engine. I gave him some spare ones for the injectors and I'll see if I have a spare TPS one I can give to him when he gets the spare IAC.

I'm not convinced that all of the leaks have been plugged. A pressure test needs to be done as there still may be leaks around the TB and where the intake manifold bolts to the engine. Also, a lower timing belt cover would be nice so we can properly set the base timing, but we gotta work with what we've got.

Other than the high idle, the engine seems to be running pretty decent. Sounds like your typical Mitsubishi engine - lifter tap, throwout bearing chatter, and noisy injectors. Still lots of misc. issues to work out even when we get the engine to run and idle right.

 

[desant78]

Quoting Blown1:
Tps ideally should be at are close to zero when idling but I have never seen it my car idles perfectly at 850rpms tps@10% the more important thing is to make sure its @100% at wot and as far as your base timing goes you should be at 5 degrees it will show up as 8-10 degrees on your logger though so don't go crazy. As far as adjusting the biss screw make sure you did it the way it's recommended here click just turning it either way without grounding wont really affect anything as the ecu will fight you all the way and not set correctly.Good luck.
D




tried it...when I'm in base timing the rpm is still around 2k and the BISS can't adjust for that...also it is already at a minimum.
Still gather material for a pressure test of the intake.

 

[desant78]

Ok so with the new coolant temp sensor (and the old one) I idle at 2500 rpm....and get a reading of 5 degF when I start the car(15degF when the thermostat opens). I verified the wiring by the GVR4 manual...not the dsm one I was using.

Then if I unplug it...I'll idle close to 1.5k.

help?

 

hook up your coolant lines tot eh idle speed controller. the isc has no idea how hot the car is so it will resume fast idle thinking it is cold.

 

Quoting RichHenry:
hook up your coolant lines tot eh idle speed controller. the isc has no idea how hot the car is so it will resume fast idle thinking it is cold.



You cannot hook up coolant lines to the idle speed controller - perhaps you meant the throttle body?

The ISC/IAC does not have an internal temperature sensor that tells the computer when it is cold or hot - that is done by the coolant temperature sensor located on the coolant fill neck. The ECU take the coolant temperature reading and adjusts the ISC/IAC accordingly to bring the idle down as the car warms up.

 

[desant78]

does anyone know if i can use a 1g dsm ecu that is not eeprom in my car?

My vr4 is an eeprom ecu, but my friend will let me borrow his non-eeprom ecu to test my ecu. I want to switch them out..i will get the ecu tuesday.

any help as always is appreciated.