need to set timing

ok iam gonna try to just put the old belt back in time. So i can see if it runs. It had no compression after a new flywheel was put in for somereason it is off time now. but iam flat broke right now and my teacher recomended to do that to see if the valves are bent. cause if it runs then there not the car did jump time when at idle i guess. I was not there whats the easyiest way to just put the old belt back in time whats this specal tool can i get around using that thanks for any info ive read all the vfaq on changing the belt but i dont get it at all.

 

[Diego]

Omg..... :facepalm:

Never use the old belt...
This special tool can be made/bought.... look at vfaq

There is no "Easy" way, you just do it.

 

Check your private messages

 

[beaner]

i just used some needle nose pliers instead of that tool. it's more a matter of knowing how that tensioner is to be clocked than anything else. before tightening that bolt, the two holes in the tensioner should be at like 11 and 1 o'clock, or 10 and 12... something like that.

doing the belt can be a huge pain while in the car, especially the first time around. are you sure you don't have like 35 bucks for a new one? it just seems silly. if everything's fine, you'll wish a new belt was there. if not, youll have to pull the head and get a new headgasket and belt anyways.

you can probably pull the plugs and look into the cylinder while strategically hand cranking the engine with a good light to see if the valves are destroyed or kissed the piston. just an idea, not really sure on that.

 

[AnotherNewb]

If your school is worth a damn they will have a bore scope.

Click me to solve your timing problems and save some typing

 

Quoting Beaner:


are you sure you don't have like 35 bucks for a new one? it just seems silly. if everything's fine, you'll wish a new belt was there.





I would not suggest spending 35 dollars on a timing belt. If you are going to replace it go OEM. The 35 dollar Ebay belts are not a good idea. The P.O. of my car used one and about 15 teeth literally stripped off the belt...... bye bye valves. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif The OEM ones have a metal mesh woven into the teeth that prevents just what happened to my car.

 

[beaner]

the gatorback belts are fine, you dont need OEM. i don't remember exactly what they cost. don't get too hung up on the '35 bucks'.

 

[TRBODSM]

They are about 40 and I have ran them before with no problems. I think they are even a little thicker but I have started using OEM ones and will use the parts store brand for a cheap build I am doing.

 

OEM are ridiculous ($130) but well worth it in my opinion. If all you are trying to do is verify the conditions of the internals and you have the timing belt off, talking the head off is probably the best idea. You don't spend any money, and you get a definative diagnosis of what is wrong. Sure you will have to buy a head gasket to put it together, but then at least you know your spending money on something that works...... Thats what i would do.

 

[Barnes]

If the only thing you want to do is figure out if the valves are bent, here is another option:

Take the engine apart to the point where you can take the t-belt on and off. List of parts to get to that point; driver side engine mount, crank pulley, water pump/PS pulley, AC belt tensioner, timing cover.

Now you have full access to the belt. Take your current t-belt (assuming it is in okay condition, I.e., not ready to fall apart in 30secs) and redo your t-belt job. Triple check you have it 'timed' correctly. Do not reinstall everything! Now with everything off, but the now reinstalled belt, do a compression test. You should be able to tell if you bent valves at this point.

If at this point you have good compression, purchase new replacement parts if needed (t-belt, tensioner, b-shaft belt etc), and continue. Again, if you install a new belt, triple check the timing, and maybe perform a compression test just to confirm.

If your compression is still bad, then pull the head. You probably bent valves.

You have to pull the t-belt off no matter what you do, so you might as well check your compression while you are there. No sense in pulley off the head unless you absolutely have to.

EDIT: Also, OEM t-belt is only $63 from JNZ LINKY

 

[BrandonEchols]

I've heard good things about contitech...they are the OEM supplier for lots of high-end cars, and a whole kit from them is like $100-$150 with all the pulleys...I don't think that includes a new tensioner though.

 

[The_Big_Weave]

click
I buy all of mine here