Need lot's of help..

Hi all.. New here and trying to help a buddy. He bought a VR4, some time ago.. Someone else took it aparts and I am going to be putting it back together which can make things real fun /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Motor and trans are out, so I'm hoping i can get some detailed pics of what this thing should look like under the hood (factory). Also will probably have some questions putting it back together. For now, this is what i could really use:

Pics (the more the better)

TQ numbers for flywheel and pressure plate?

Does the throwout bearing have some form of retaining pins?

Where does this heatshield go?
Also what do the upper 3 brackets attach to?

How about this bracket?

Any recomondations for this brocket flex exhaust? Aftermarket or where I should look for a used one?

Thanks a million in advance for the help!!!

 

[belize1334]

The top bracket is for the power-steering pump. The middle left is for your a/c compressor which bolts to the back of the engine. The middle right is an idler pulley but I'm not sure which belt it goes with...possibly something under the timing cover.

The flat plate w/ 5 holes in it is the "gusset plate" and connects the sub-frame to the chassis on the passenger side just behind the wheel-well. It is CRITICAL for structural support.

There is in fact a retainer pin for the throw-out bearing. Order it from the dealership 'cause in my experience you can't get them from parts stores. If you have a mitsubishi dealership it's easy. Otherwise find a Chrysler dealership and tell them you have a '92 Eagle Talon. It looks like this and you can see it goes half way around the throw-out bearing (on the side facing AWAY from the clutch fork) and then pokes through the holes in the fork to keep the TOB and fork properly mated. Here's another pic.

There are also SEVERAL How-To documents both on this board in the "Info Archive" and in "Tech Discussions" so I suggest you become acquainted with the search feature as you can teach yourself faster than we can teach you. Also, you'll want to do a lot of reading on www.vfaq.com. Many of the links there are broken but it is still an excellent resource. And pick up a Haynes manual for a 90-94 Eclipse/Talon/Laser. They're not exactly the same car but they have more parts in common than not, including pretty much everything engine related as well as things like subframe, suspension components etc.

 

Do yourself a favor and download the factory service manual click (89-93 Mitsubishi Galant, both CM & BE). It has all the info your looking for and much more. Check out the Member's showcase section for pics. There are tons of people on here with stock/lightly modded cars and most of them have pics there.

 

[Barnes]

Quote:
TQ numbers for flywheel and pressure plate?


Torque values

Quote:
Does the throwout bearing have some form of retaining pins?



Yes, there is a thin spring clip that goes over the top of the throwout bearing and pokes into the sides of the clutch fork through the little holes. This *should* come with a new throwout bearing when you buy them. I would recommend you clean up the contact surfaces of that clutch fork. I'd also inspect the fulcrum ball for wear. It is generally worth spending the ~$100 or so for a new fulcrum ball, clutch fork, and OEM throwout bearing. These have a tendency to cause trouble.

Quote:
Where does this heatshield go?



This goes around the exhaust housing of the turbo below the exhaust manifold and around the O2 housing.

Quote:
brackets etc...



The small one at the upper left of the picture is for the power steering pump. The larger one below it with the 4 holes goes on the rear of the engine block to hold the A/C compressor. The one with the pulley bolts to the front of the engine block for the A/C belt. The large one with the rubber bushing at the bottom bolts to the driver side of the engine and connects to the body of the car. It is an engine mount.

Quote:
what is this bracket??



This bracket connects to several sub frame pieces approximately under the passenger side front drive shaft. The two holes next to each other go towards the rear of the car.

Quote:
flex section is borked



If you just want to get the car running, I'm sure you could buy a stock downpipe (that is what that section is called) from a board member. OR take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld a new one in. IMO, get a used downpipe.

 

[MitchooO]

i have a stainless 3 inch downpipe for a galant, for the factory turbo housing.... and also have the stock turbo-muffler exhaust from an 90 awd eclipse, if your interested in either just pm me and ill work you a deal!

 

[CarRacer]

Quoting blue642:
Do yourself a favor and download the factory service manual click (89-93 Mitsubishi Galant, both CM & BE). It has all the info your looking for and much more. Check out the Member's showcase section for pics. There are tons of people on here with stock/lightly modded cars and most of them have pics there.




I think the manuals can now be found here in the Library link located at the top of the page now. Little Evo works too though.

 

[Hertz]

We do not host the FSM, but we do have other stuff.

 

Thanks guys for the help so far.. Mits ordered the clip for the throwout bearing for me and is now in stock.. I'll probably get the trans bolted to the motor today and if i'm lucky get it dropped in place today or tomorrow. Any suggestions before dropping it in? Anything I should be looking for or to avoid doing to make headaches?

 

[rgeier11]

Remove the sensor for reverse from the trans. It will help you wedge the trans in easier.

 

[GreenGSX]

Quoting Farmtruck:
Thanks guys for the help so far.. Mits ordered the clip for the throwout bearing for me and is now in stock.. I'll probably get the trans bolted to the motor today and if i'm lucky get it dropped in place today or tomorrow. Any suggestions before dropping it in? Anything I should be looking for or to avoid doing to make headaches?



Remove the front and rear motor mount bolts or "pins" and set the motor on the front/rear cross members. Use large pry bar or 2x4 to move the engine forward towards the radiator about an inch. That will make all the difference in the world. Then all you have to do is master the magic "grassy knoll" mid air maneuver and it will slip right in. Don't forget to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses so the motor will move forward and don't forget that little 12mm bolt that goes in from the drivers side to bolt the lower dowel pin mounting point on the firewall side of the transmission.

 

[fivestardsm]

Quoting Farmtruck:


Any recomondations for this brocket flex exhaust? Aftermarket or where I should look for a used one?

Thanks a million in advance for the help!!!



click

click

Or the complete downpipe in 3" click

click

These I belive are the cat delete pipes, so if you wanted to retain your cat, you would have to shorten it up a little. But then again, just look around and see what you can find from other sources for used like on dsmtuners and dsmtrader. I bought on from one of those sites for $70 shipped.

The 2G cat delete pipe is a very good fit for the VR4's by the way. It is what I have on mine, along with a few of the other members here. Mine is a Megan Racing, and is pretty decent quality also.