Do you hear any air coming out the exhaust or from your breather? DO LIKE THEY TOLD YOU, BACK THE MBC ALL THE WAY OUT BEFORE YOU BLOW YOUR ENGINE. Or just take the mbc out of the system like someone else said. Just hook up full pressure to your turbo and have someone inside the cab and let you know what is happening. If it spikes and goes up like crazy just unhook it real fast and then use your regulator, but at first get rid of that regulator, its not letting the air in fast enough. If it still isn't going up bump your engine over and try again, if that doesn't work you have a massive boost leak or big problems.
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sorry im a noob, what do you mean by backing the boost controller out all the way? and how do I eliminate the mbc? if I am not going over 30ppsi on aircompressor how can I still blow the motor? sorry for all the uestions
When it sounds like the engine is throwing rocks at the hood, that is called detonation. That is an uncontrolled burn of fuel. Your fuel is igniting when the sparkplug hasn't fired and is trying to push the rods out of the bottom of your block( not a good thing and ruins your engine very fast).
To take the MBC out of the system take the hose that goes from the intake manifold to your MBC and hook that hose directly to the manifold to your wastegate.
To take the MBC out of the system take the hose that goes from the intake manifold to your MBC and hook that hose directly to the manifold to your wastegate.
Quoting 2DAMAX:
sorry im a noob, what do you mean by backing the boost controller out all the way? and how do I eliminate the mbc? if I am not going over 30ppsi on aircompressor how can I still blow the motor? sorry for all the uestions
Im not talking about blowing your engine with your air compressor, thats not possible. Im talking when the rocks are starting to fly at your hood. AKA to much boost, it only takes a split second of detonation to distroy an engine with to much boost and not enough fuel.
By backing out the boost controller screw it will lower your boost.
sorry im a noob, what do you mean by backing the boost controller out all the way? and how do I eliminate the mbc? if I am not going over 30ppsi on aircompressor how can I still blow the motor? sorry for all the uestions
Im not talking about blowing your engine with your air compressor, thats not possible. Im talking when the rocks are starting to fly at your hood. AKA to much boost, it only takes a split second of detonation to distroy an engine with to much boost and not enough fuel.
By backing out the boost controller screw it will lower your boost.
Thanks, so unplug the hose from the boost controller to wastegate, and then use the hose from the IM to the Waste gate, correct?
BTW that detonation sound, wouldnt that be the car hitting fuel cut and hitting my rev limiter? Im just assuming so, because it would be the same type of noise[backfire] i would hear if i was to rev it in nuetral.
BTW that detonation sound, wouldnt that be the car hitting fuel cut and hitting my rev limiter? Im just assuming so, because it would be the same type of noise[backfire] i would hear if i was to rev it in nuetral.
Yes thats the hose, and for the noise, its hard to tell without hearing it. Its not worth risking it though.
So tommorrow I will swap the hoses, and then feed air into the system. I just do not understand why the car is not recieving any air in the pipes/system??? This is probably the 10th time ive tried within 2 days. I hear going in, boost guage goes up to zero, and thats it??? Nothing At all, no his no leaks, i do not feel or see any air blowing out the couplers, nothing, not even by TB or BOV.
I know you mentioned earlier it could be a major leak, or a big problem, what would the big problem be?
I know you mentioned earlier it could be a major leak, or a big problem, what would the big problem be?
If you burned a valve or cracked a land in a piston. I dought that happened though since it still starts and runs fine at idle.
You need to get rid of that regulator, its letting air into the system too slow. You need to go straight from the compressor to the test pipe. Just unplug your compressor and hook a blow gun up to it and bleed the main pressure into the tank to 20psi and hook the hose staight to your test pipe.
You need to get rid of that regulator, its letting air into the system too slow. You need to go straight from the compressor to the test pipe. Just unplug your compressor and hook a blow gun up to it and bleed the main pressure into the tank to 20psi and hook the hose staight to your test pipe.
Well my idle still jumps from 1500-1800, now the new thing for it is to idle to about 2000 now.
It almost sounds like the hose from your intake manifold to your boost controller came off or something. Make sure that hose doesn't have any cracks in it or make sure its not split. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere. You have to do a boost leak test and get the system up to 10psi at least. Let me know what you come up with.
Hertz
Staff member
Quoting 2DAMAX:
Im just assuming so, because it would be the same type of noise[backfire] i would hear if i was to rev it in nuetral.
Your car shouldn't backfire.
Everything sounds like a massive leak to me.
Im just assuming so, because it would be the same type of noise[backfire] i would hear if i was to rev it in nuetral.
Your car shouldn't backfire.
Everything sounds like a massive leak to me.
OK I did the boost leak test again, I Raised the regulator up to about 40-45psi. I hear the air going in, but my BOOST GAUGE STILL READS ZERO!
Again, my boost gauage is tapped off of the INTAKE MANIFOLD, wouldnt it read zero since the throttle body is closed?
Again, my boost gauage is tapped off of the INTAKE MANIFOLD, wouldnt it read zero since the throttle body is closed?
No, air still gets by it. PLEASE Get rid of your regulator and hook your hose straight to your test piece. Have someone in the car and let you know when you reach 10 psi, then unhook. Bleed the air out of your compressor until you have about 20psi in your tank and hook it up and leave it there and find your leak.
Also make sure your boost gauge line doesn't have a hole or a crack in it.
Also make sure your boost gauge line doesn't have a hole or a crack in it.
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So, you want me to max out my air compressor? I cant get rid of the regulator on my air compressor, should i set it to the maximum? maybe at a 100 psi for starters??
Yes, you need volume. Just have someone in the cab to let you know so you don't go to high. Or just max it out your regulator, turn your compressor off, hook up a blow gun or something to bleed air down to 20 psi and just hook it up. Then you don't have to have anyone in the cab.
turbowop
Well-known member
Why can't he use the regulator? I always set my regulator down to 20psi and then hook it up to my tester on the car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Im thinking that he's not getting enough volume through his regulator and his leak is leaking the air too fast for him to find it. Im just trying to get him to get a rush of volume into the system so he can find the leak.
In theory
In theory
Bro, if im going to put my bleed my compressor down to 20 psi, Then my regulator is not going to exceed 20 psi???
Wouldnt this be the same thing if i had my regulator set to 20psi??? I was setting the regulator 45psi and the boost gauge is at zero??
Should I just raise the compressor to the max then???
Wouldnt this be the same thing if i had my regulator set to 20psi??? I was setting the regulator 45psi and the boost gauge is at zero??
Should I just raise the compressor to the max then???
turbowop
Well-known member
Ah. I see. Still, 20psi flowing through the piping should pinpoint the leak, even if it's big. That's a lot of air rushing out of somewhere.
Maybe there's a burned valve or hole in a piston? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/noes.gif
Maybe there's a burned valve or hole in a piston? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/noes.gif
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Its hard to troubleshoot something over the internet and not having it in front of me.
When you unhook the air hose from your test piece is there a rush of air coming out of your test piece?
If that doesn't work take a 1/2" rachet and stick in the dampner and turn it a bit, see if it will hold air then. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE RACHET BEFORE YOU START YOUR CAR THOUGH!!!
When you unhook the air hose from your test piece is there a rush of air coming out of your test piece?
If that doesn't work take a 1/2" rachet and stick in the dampner and turn it a bit, see if it will hold air then. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE RACHET BEFORE YOU START YOUR CAR THOUGH!!!
