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money in da bank

mountaineerjeff

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
just got my check in, now the galant gets to have a treatment.
This is kinda a WTB thread, but is also a what to buy, so I thought it should go here instead WTB

current mods
ACT street disk
ACt2600 pp
fidanza wheel
Iridium plugs
NGK wires
3" intake 1g mas K&N
16g turbo
3" o2 and DP
palm with mmcd
battery in trunk

I have a torn CV boot, should be easier to just replace the whole axel, are there bigger over sized axels? I dont need them now, but Im only buying things once, what about a lightweight set? like a carbon composite? will the dsm ones work? will they work when I do a 5-lug swap?

Im also getting new master and slave cylinders, anything special or will OEM be fine?

I want new rims, but Im just gonna wait until I do the swap.

Anyone do a 4bolt with 4ws?

also am gonna go ahead and get ecm link, because it is better to be able to tune first then to have the go fast parts and not be able to use them. any other tuning stuff required? looking to eventually go with a gm blow through, but I dont need a translator with the new ecm link.

my mod list/ wtb list

SS everything, clutch line, brake lines, coolant lines, everything
new exhaust manifold with EGT bung
front axels
maybe an intercooler.

I should have enough to buy the best of everything on that list.
all suggestions are appreciated as well as anything that might be money better spent
If i do an intercooler set up, I want to be able to do a blow through with a vented blowoff, which means all have to compensate, hence getting the dsmlink first

thanks I have ideas but nothing is for sure
if anybody has anything to get rid of hit me up.
 

mountaineerjeff

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
would newbies be a better section? I know whats goin on, but I want your guys feedback.

the exhaust manifold should fit under the SS heatshields that a member was making.
so I gues a ported evo3?
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
Quoting mountaineerjeff:

I have a torn CV boot, should be easier to just replace the whole axel, are there bigger over sized axels? I dont need them now, but Im only buying things once, what about a lightweight set? like a carbon composite? will the dsm ones work? will they work when I do a 5-lug swap?

Im also getting new master and slave cylinders, anything special or will OEM be fine?

I want new rims, but Im just gonna wait until I do the swap.

Anyone do a 4bolt with 4ws?

also am gonna go ahead and get ecm link, because it is better to be able to tune first then to have the go fast parts and not be able to use them. any other tuning stuff required? looking to eventually go with a gm blow through, but I dont need a translator with the new ecm link.

my mod list/ wtb list

SS everything, clutch line, brake lines, coolant lines, everything
new exhaust manifold with EGT bung
front axels
maybe an intercooler.

I should have enough to buy the best of everything on that list.
all suggestions are appreciated as well as anything that might be money better spent
If i do an intercooler set up, I want to be able to do a blow through with a vented blowoff, which means all have to compensate, hence getting the dsmlink first

thanks I have ideas but nothing is for sure
if anybody has anything to get rid of hit me up.



I'd either buy a reman'd axle or just tear it apart and replace the CV boot if your axle isn't clicking. New boots can be had for less than $10 and reman'd axles can be had for around $60 with core. DSM axles are the same, but if it's rear, make sure you get the correct part (lsd vs. non-lsd). 5-lug swap is not a problem with axles.

Master and slave clutch, I assume? OEM is probably best, but the same OEM brands can be found on ebay for cheap. That's how I got my master, anyways.

Keydiver as well as others have done the 4 bolt 4ws swap. You can search on this.
 

mountaineerjeff

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
ok i guess Ill just get some OEM axels
are there no upgraded axels? lightwieght or higher strength?
Ive seen people throw wheels down the track due to broken axels, but thats from my V8 RWD experience. I KNOW ive seen I pick with bigger axels here somewhere.....
 

mountaineerjeff

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
ss clutch Ebay is normally cheap stuff, but what could go wrong with a ss line?
 

belize1334

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Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
I think the best modification order is the bang-for-your-buck approach. Deal with the biggest restriction first. That is, before you go to a 4-bolt I recommend that you upgrade springs/struts/sway bars. Next to getting an intercooler that won't heat soak I think that handling mods make the biggest difference in the "fun to drive" department.

If it were me I'd do it this way.

1) MAINTENANCE: Never mod unless the vehicle is sound to begin with. My only exception to this rule is when modding MAKES the vehicle sound. So for instance, you might go to ECMLink if your ECU is already fried but if the ECU is fine, don't buy ECMLink if your transmission is on the way out. Spend the money where it's needed first. Clutch lines, slave cylinder, CV-joint, all of these fall into this category. Along those lines, if it's your rear CV joint that is shot then you might consider doing a 4-bolt swap if that's about the same cost as a new axle. But if the upgrade isn't FIXING a problem, postpone it until there aren't any problems to fix. And just get OE replacement axles. CF is a waste of money in this department.

2) Intercooling: Even with the stock turbo at 11psi the stock intercooler is totally worthless. I'd upgrade that before I did anything else. (Again maintenance not withstanding).

3) Choose your own adventure: With a good intercooler and stock (rewired) fuel pump / injectors you're probably safe turning the boost up to say 14psi but not more. At this point you have to decide if you want more power or better handling. Personally, I think that better handling does more for the "fun factor" at this point and I'd drop some h&r springs in there with an RM rear sway bar. I'd also disable the 4WS (by disconnecting the rack from the rear trailing arms) because I think it's lousy. Then I'd throw some bigger injectors, a bigger fuel pump, and Evo/3G mas, and an AFPR on there. You'll also need either ECMLink or a DSMChip at this point. Which one will depend on your ultimate goals but I think that DSMChip is more than adequate for a 16g powered car.

4) Now you're off to the races and you just have to decide how far you want to go. Also, as per your blow through dream, I think it's over-rated. Speed density or blow-through can be made to run very well but I think that using an AFM and recirculating just works so WELL and is so much less of a hassle that the payoff just isn't there. Especially when ECMLink doesn't actually support speed density so that you're either stuck with a GM maf or you're looking for a much more expensive stand-alone unit.
 
Last edited:

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
Quoting mountaineerjeff:
ss clutch Ebay is normally cheap stuff, but what could go wrong with a ss line?



I've seen brand new ebay lines leak at the fittings, so there is stuff to go wrong with a brand new SS line! A clutch may be alright to deal with as it isn't necessarily dangerous, but brake lines are just a ticket to hurt you and/or someone else.
 

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
Suspension is KYB AGX with eibach with new mounts
plenty enough for me

the only thing left as far as maintenance is the cv boot, which didnt wear a tore it changing the suspension. The slave and master were Ideas for preventative maintenence, while I have the cash. Everything else has been changed. car is above stock new alt, new ps pump, new timing belt new waterpump.

Ive earned some getup and go
 

icurunnin

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Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
1,668
Location
Fort Worth Tx
I have a set of 2.5" ETS intercooler pipes up for grabs. they are powder coated black and ready to be put on. You could buy a intercooler off ebay thats close in deminsions for about $150 and be good to go. This way you wont have to worry about the stock rubber/junk pipes leaking or tearing.
 

belize1334

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Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
Sounds good then. Get up and Go!

Yeah I think that KYB AGX and eibachs are fine. I would look into a rear sway bar though. Next to tires it's probably the best thing you can do for handling. If the CV is good but the boot is just torn than order a replacement boot. It'll cost you $10 - $20.

That aside, I reiterate my suggestion. Intercooler, then injectors/pump/AFPR/3G Maf/DSMChip. The injectors and pump and AFPR you'll need anyway and the 3G maf and DSMChip are CHEAP compared to ECMLink. You can go far with them and they're resellable if you decide that they're not doing it for you.
 

mountaineerjeff

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Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
once I get injectors and fuel, ill have to be able to tune it right?
so why not but it first?
I plan on keeping my setup for good, im not a buy rebuild kinda guy, so as far software goes id rather have what is new, because in 8 years dsmlink will be long gone, and ecm will be being replaced.

660s
walboro 255
this?

how hard is it to just change the boot?
if they make light weight components I would buy them. I want power and reliability.
one good way to do that is dropping drivetrain weight. gain power to the wheels, without working the motor any harder
 

belize1334

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Nov 18, 2003
Messages
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Location
Bozeman, MT
I don't mean DSMLink. I mean DSMChip . There is no tuning involved. You specify injector size and the AFM that you want to use and you get a chip burned. It uses the stock ECU with a modified code. It's like reflashing an Evo chip and because we own GVR-4s we get the hookup. You don't get the on the fly tuning that ECMLink gives you but you also don't pay anywhere near the price. It's an easy plug and play deal and your vehicle will drive beautifully and make good power. For me it went like this. I bought a 482 mas and a set of Evo 560cc injectors. I ordered a chip for that configuration plus a few goodies. I installed it (takes about 15min to swap the chip) and drove away. It is the most painless modification I have done to my vehicle to date.

If you want ECMLink then get it. I wouldn't mind having it myself. But I think that my money is better spent elsewhere unless I'm looking for that last 5%. On a 16g car I just don't see it paying off.
 
Last edited:

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
well tpg tuning is here local to me, so the amount of power they can get out of it is garanteed to be substaintial. A chip might be a way for me to go ahead and start getting some goodies installed though. then after I get settled then look into strong tuning with ecm.
 

CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
Messages
4,371
Location
Shakopee, MN
I'd stick with OEM style axles. Lighter ones will have issues with a launch I'd imagine. V8's just spin tires, saving their axels.

I'd recommend the intercooler and hard pipes, fuel pump/injectors, and ditch the stock MAS. A Keydiver chip is highly reccomemded. Mine worked flawless.
 

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
Quoting belize1334:
I would look into a rear sway bar though. Next to tires it's probably the best thing you can do for handling.



tjz06 has a 26mm from whiteline is that too big?
what is a fair price for whiteline strut bars and sway bars?
 

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
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Location
west virginia
found a maf from an 04 gm truck for $30 is there a difference between the gm maf? all the others were like 200? I dont know why this is 30, no translator? are the translators really so costly? if so that alone will compesate for get ecm, because you dont need a translator
 

mountaineerjeff

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Oct 21, 2008
Messages
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Location
west virginia
looked into aftermarket axels, those shits are expensive!!!!
ill prolly still get the driveshaft, but not yet
 

Dialcaliper

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Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
1,287
Location
Mountain View, CA
Except for the rear axles (upgrade to OEM 4-bolt), the stock ones will take plenty of abuse. No need to blow thousands of dollars on aluminum driveshafts and 300M steel axles unless you are building a serious monster. All of the stock parts are already made of forged 4340 chromoly from the factory and are quite stout (even the 3-bolt axles are).

RockAuto has replacement CV Boots on sale for < $10

Your ACT street disc and stock transmission will fail well before the stock driveshaft - invest in a built transmission instead. In fact, unless you are producing enough power to need a a puck disc or a twin-disc clutch, you are unlikely to need aftermarket shafts.

Before you even need that though, Maintainance - fix your clutch cylinders and anything else that's wrong

Suspension (Sway bars, dampers, springs, in that order. Front camber bolts and an alignment are highly recommended). Get some decent performance tires (205 to 215 for 15"), or rims and tires (16" and 225/50 is the most economical performance combo)

After suspension is brakes. Good pads (Porterfield R4-S, Hawk, Axxis, etc) and Stainless lines. Rotors if yours aren't in good shape.

Then start worrying about power.
 

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
Quoting Dialcaliper:
No need to blow thousands of dollars on aluminum driveshafts and 300M steel axles unless you are building a serious monster.



Im gonna switch to lightwieght to be more efficient and to lose weight. im keepin all my 'luxuries' plus adding a few, so I need to lose weight any other way
Quoting Dialcaliper:


RockAuto has replacement CV Boots on sale for < $10


Wont I have to tear apart the joint? if so then that work isnt worth it, ill buy a set of reman. if they can then the local store has em cheaper

Quoting Dialcaliper:


Your ACT street disc and stock transmission will fail well before the stock driveshaft - invest in a built transmission instead. In fact, unless you are producing enough power to need a a puck disc or a twin-disc clutch, you are unlikely to need aftermarket shafts.



loud and clear, I just figured that is I had to change the axel I only wanted to do it once.

Quoting Dialcaliper:


Before you even need that though, Maintainance - fix your clutch cylinders and anything else that's wrong



the cylinders are still good, no leaks anywhere, and I was just being preventative, plus rockauto has them for sale. the car has all items brand new.
the only thing that need redone is the 4ws which the previous owner semi deleted/blocked
Quoting Dialcaliper:


Suspension (Sway bars, dampers, springs, in that order. Front camber bolts and an alignment are highly recommended). Get some decent performance tires (205 to 215 for 15"), or rims and tires (16" and 225/50 is the most economical performance combo)




I have KYB AGX with eibach. as far as sway bars are there any options? dont they have to be vr4 specific? can you replace the endlinks and bushings?

tires: I have new tires, not good enough for racing, but the stick for now. rims and good tires will come after a 5lug 4bolt swap
Quoting Dialcaliper:

After suspension is brakes. Good pads (Porterfield R4-S, Hawk, Axxis, etc) and Stainless lines. Rotors if yours aren't in good shape.



brakes/rotors new
big brake kit after swap
SS with ABS delete
Quoting Dialcaliper:


Then start worrying about power.



your list was a grand total, including an axel, which you only recomended a boot, is
 
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