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Master cylinder upgrade time. Done now with pictures

curtis

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May 4, 2003
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Clarksville TN
Ok from my searching.

Brake 1

Brake 2

Here's the deal, I had a stainless line fail about a week ago. I guess during multiple mashes to the floor the seal poped inside because ist leaking out next to the booster like others here have had before. I know from reading the 3000 would work but what about a diamante, eclipes, talon, Na or turbos, mirage etc. I'm keeping the ABS system so I'll need to find one from a abs car. I wouldn't mind having one that has the top mounted fuild canister. Anyway just wondering if there was another type car I could get an upgrade from. As long as its Japanese the fitting size and design will be the same. Maybe RX7, 300z, supra. I figure while I'm at it anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

Thanks
 
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atc250r

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Sep 11, 2003
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Orange County, NY
I think an Evo8 one would fit and that would be a nice set up for someone with 4 piston calipers. I found one on car-part.com back when Garfield did his brake upgrade and it was like $50 at one place.

John
 

GVR-4

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Apr 22, 2002
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Asheville, NC USA
I want to replace mine with an EVO VIII, but I'm not sure where the brake lines come off of it. Has anybody found a picture?
 

curtis

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Kc's pimp ride. I think the container on top would have to be rotated to fit because the VR4's are so close to the strut tower. It may have the screw bosses on top for our style hook ups. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif


Going to the junkyard to snag the Diamante ABS cars set-up off and see if it will bolt up on one of the NA galants there.
 
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curtis

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The diamante abs cars are 1 inch bore units.

I grabed a Q45 infinity unit and did a test run in the yard. It fits on our booster, has two lines one for the front and one for the rear and are inverted flare metric and has a 1 1/6 inch bore. The master on it is large and bulky but when knocked out the rubber seals from the galant in the junkyard fit the holes and the factory galant fittings worked as well. I'll see if It's a can do or not.


By the way its from a 90-92 Q45 with a tokico unit.
 
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CP

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Aug 30, 2004
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West Simsbury, CT
I just ordered a brand new one for a non-abs 1G from JNZ for $250. See my road course banter thread for details.
 

curtis

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Clarksville TN
It's done, i now have a gas pedal, slipping clutch pedal soon to get that replaced and a impending lock up pedal. I drove it around the block and damn it trys to put you through the windshield and locks up the tires no problem. I read on one of the infinity sites that the 90-92 like I used has more bias for the front and withh the 1 1/16 bore it works.

I pulled it apart honed it out and reasembled and also took apart the factory fuild container damn it was full of trash in the bottom.

Easy mod the 90 degree plastic elbows and seals from the original VR4 master lock right in and seal no problem. The underneath side of where the screws go had to be filed off a little but could be snipped off with a pair of dikes. I had to adjust the rod in the booster out about 2 turns or so to take up some slack in the system. The longest part was taking my time bending the lines do to the fact ours are on top and these are on the inside. The one in the front which is for the rear brakes had to be taken out of the holder block and straighten out for some extra lenght. I guess now I'll figure out why the abs light is on and get the sensor replaced asap. I really want to see how this thing does now without lock up.



Oh and the sexy hose clamps are from a subaru ej25 fuel rail. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Here's pictures...Enjoy.
 
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curtis

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Update put some miles on her today.

It's different, in a good way. Since the bore was 1 1/16 anyway and I honed it out more. The added volume is really noticeable the amount of pressure required to stop is much less now. Plus the springs in this unit are way more rigid that the factory one. The factory one I was able to collapse by hand with a screwdriver and the infiniti unit I had to press it against the work bench to collapse. I haven't had a chance to start inspection the wheel sensors for the abs, but I powered up the abs motor with a 12v wire from the battery and it spun up and the relays all checked good by connecting them to a light bulb and a battery so the relays up next to abs unit are good. I'm thinking I smoked a wheel sensor when I drilled out the hubs for the larger evo strut bolts and let metal shavings get down in there.

When I tore apart the infiniti unit I didn't remove the freeze pulg thing on the end I guess it has an expansion chamber in there to releave hyd hammering or something. If any nissan/ infiniti guys know hook a brother up.
 

Awesome Curtis. This is the kind of post I've come to expect from you lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
There's one thing I don't like doing is adding non mitsu oem parts to my car, simply for ease of replacement later on. As long as you keep a log of what car & year the parts came from, this shouldn't be a problem. Did you just simply bend the brake lines to line back up with the mc? Did they screw right into the mc without any problems?
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
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Clarksville TN
Quote:
Awesome Curtis. This is the kind of post I've come to expect from you lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
There's one thing I don't like doing is adding non mitsu oem parts to my car, simply for ease of replacement later on. As long as you keep a log of what car & year the parts came from, this shouldn't be a problem. Did you just simply bend the brake lines to line back up with the mc? Did they screw right into the mc without any problems?



I just bent the lines and screwed them in. I just took my time and bent slow and easy. Most japenase use the same pitch and thread design just like the US does so that part was the easiest. As for the log thats what this place is for. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

steve

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Sep 11, 2003
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Quote:
As for the log thats what this place is for.



Better make a How-To, because the other sections get trimmed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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