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Maft help, electronics?

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
The car is running like a wrx I first thought it was a faulty
maft box well that was chamged and is still the same
problem, at fisrt there was no grounding to the box from the sensor
ground in the original maf wire bundle, so grounded it to chasis
ground and the box lights up like it should, but the car still
sounding like a wrx with lung cancer, the trouble codes are 21,25,13,14
two of these deal with maf signals, so could me GM maf be
not getting good ground or just shorted, please help
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
Already checked wiring and maf settings all is good
it's weird because I ran with this setup for a month
no problems, cruiseng w the gf one day, the check engine
light came on and the car just bogged and limped it home
(three long blocks) sounding like a wrx, the codes are the ones
mentioned before, no bad coils already checked it and
it reaks of unburnt fuel
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
A gm 3 in and version 2.0 the car had a 2 g maf hard wired to it
when I first wired it I made a sketch but lost it, does anyone
have the link to this I looked in dsmtunners and no
luck? Want to know what wires go to were make sure I have it
right? Anyone has a vr4 maf harness the want to donate?
 

This is what I got.

Car MAFT
Red - Pink
Green w/blue- Green
Green w/yellow- Grey
Green w/black - Black
Green w/orange - Brown
 
Last edited by a moderator:

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
Alright thanks for the info that's what jwas looking for will check it and get
back to you, I'll feel like a total nerd if I just wired it wrong , oh well another
item on my stupidest things list
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
Hey so I checked the wiring, all correct it's giving me
trouble codes 12,13,25 all these are leaning towds the
gm maf, I hope I read something about a hot wire
or to solder a resistor on dsmtunners can't recll, so any ideas
 

Never heard that. Mine is wired just like that and I havent had any problems for the last few months. Is the MAF clean? Anyway to swap it out for one thats known to work?
 

steve

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
18,897
Location
NJ
It will be much easier to understand your posts if you use punctuation/sentences and also stop with the unnecessary line breaks. Not busting your balls, just trying to help. Many members who may be able to help will take one look at the structure of your post and move along.
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
The thing that has me all confused is that the maf and the translator box need to be hard grounded for the two lights (red and green) to come on, like the car wire ground is shorted open,? The maf looks clean, but will source on from a buddy that gets them free from the you pull it's, so I'll just have to see, as for the grammer, let's just say my iPhones autospell sucks and is really sucks having to type this on my work breaks being I'm on swing shift doesn't help either
 

It sounds like you may have popped the sensors ground trace inside your ECU. All 3 of those voltages/signals that you are getting errors on are generated by the MAFT box. Either the box is bad, or you have lost +12 volts or ground to it. I would pull the ECU, and make sure that you have continuity between pin #101 and #24.
click
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
I know for sure that the maf box is not getting grounded from the harness side, I have it grounded to a chasisi ground, now which ecu pin should I ground if I don't get continuity, or is it time for a new ecu?
 

As I told you in the above post, the ECU must have continuity internally between pins 101/106 (chassis grounds) and pin #24, which is the sensors ground that feeds a ground connection to all the sensors under the hood. You do NOT just want to ground that wire. It can cause a voltage offset on your grounds that will throw off the readings, especially for the O2 sensor, which is bad. You need to fix the ECU if that is the problem.
BUT, if the sensors ground is open inside the ECU, that would indicate that someone mis-wired something under the hood, connecting the sensors ground to +12 volts. Do you know of that happening???
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
Jeff I do not have continuity between those pins, I'm sure that the when I half assed wired the translator I didn't insulate them, when the car started acting up I popes te hood and saw the 12v wire had came undone and touched some other wires, I'm sure itmust have shorted something in the ecu, the board does smell burnt, so I guess I fried it????
 

AnotherNewb

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
Wow KEYDIVER... Rarely do you speek up but when you do you never cease to amaze me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
 

What you need to do is repair the burnt ground trace inside the ECU by soldering a jumper underneath the board to reconnect pin #24 to pin #101/106. The sensors ground trace runs under the connectors, so you can't get to it, or even usually see where it is burned open. You just need to ohm it out, and if its open bypass it with a wire jumper.
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
Looking at my ecu, I can say that soldering this is out of my comfort zone, Jeff can I send it off to you?
 
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