Hertz
Staff member
I just ordered some KYB AGXs, I assume they do not come with bumpstops or boots? Do I need them? Where is a good place to get them from? Rockauto?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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KYB AGX
- Thread starter Hertz
- Start date
You can reuse the stockers if in OK condition, or KYB actually sells them too. Maybe the dealer you bought them from can get you those also.
Check their website (KYBs I mean).
Check their website (KYBs I mean).
yea they don't come with anything but the top nut. My boots were Ok so I just got new bumpstops from the stealer for about 16.00 seemed resonable so I went with those. The boots I'm not sure on & I did try the kyb route first but though they show a part# they wer unavail about two months ago.
Do not even think of hitting the upper nut with an impact gun on the AGX's. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Do not even think of hitting the upper nut with an impact gun on the AGX's. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Hertz
Staff member
No? Busts the valves?
On a low setting about a hundred pounds, it sheared the effer right off. Granted had I been paying proper attention it wouldn't have happened but I wont run the risk again. Much weaker there with the adjuster coming up through shaft.
Fronts, rear adjusters are on the body & should pose no problem. Of course by the book we never hit them with an impact anyway /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Fronts, rear adjusters are on the body & should pose no problem. Of course by the book we never hit them with an impact anyway /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
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GVR-4
Well-known member
I think KYB makes a combination bump stop/boot. I think that's what I put on my car last time I changed the springs. Only on the front though.
I got top nuts,agx decals /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif, and a little screwdriver to adjust the fronts. I re-used my old boots and crumbling bumpstops because it was a now or never install.Nobody had bumpstops localy. Rockauto has a "boot kit" wich I believe brings boot and bumpstop. Never called them to find out.
Ryan, I ordered these from Summit: part # ENS-7-6104R Stabilizer bushings $9.99/pair
Boots? We don't need no boots. Haven't used them for 12 years.
Boots? We don't need no boots. Haven't used them for 12 years.
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I was told way back that we didn't need boots. Whats the point anyway if the boots aren't sealed at the top and bottom? It seems they would collect more junk than anything else.
Then again, why are they there to begin with?
Then again, why are they there to begin with?
GVR4ZUM
Well-known member
Hertz
Staff member
Oh dude! The boots have built-in bump stops, sweet! They look like they seal, too. Hmm...
Thanks a million.
Thanks a million.
GVR4ZUM
Well-known member
Your welcome. I'm glad I'm able to help.
s_firestone
Well-known member
Resurrecting this thread. Ordered KYB AGX fronts and rears. I also ordered the rear upper mount kit and the boot kits. The bump stop/boot kits are SB101(front) and SB107(rear). Can anybody share how the rear bump stop/boot goes on the shock? The center hole at the top of the bump stop is just large enough to squeeze over the threads at the top of the shaft, but not over the stop. The instructions(next to useless) mention soap and water but it still seems too small and begins compressing the shock. Is this bump stop supposed to go below the stop? I would assume it has to below the stop, if it does not the assembly will not be stable up top when assembled into the mount
>shaft stop |bushing > sleeve (inserted through mount) < bushing < washer < bolt.
Should I drill the bump stop out slightly or is it supposed to be that tight?
The opening on the bump stop is tapered to 5/16"(approx 8mm), while the stop is 5/8"(16mm) followed by a ring that is approximately 23/32(18mm). The shaft itself above the stop is just shy of 1/2" (9mm) so its already a bit of a squeeze. I just see how the bump stop is supposed to fit over that stop.
The picture is of the rear shock (741014) and rear boot/bump stop (SB107)
Another couple of questions.
The front mount is an OEM.
The rear KYB mount kit (SM5091) is being assembled into an OEM EVO mount housing. Is there any reason why there appears to be 1 extra grommet in the kit? The grommet in question is the one on the upper left. The grommet is similar in design (same diameter and bore) to the one on the lower left except thinner and a larger taper. Is this simply an alternate bushing based upon application or does it go into the assembly somewhere?
One notable distinction is that the KYB instructions show the top bushing inverted from what the service manual shows. Of course both diagrams are iffy at best. I will be comparing the old shock assembly when I disassemble it from the car.
Assembled on shaft with the actual mount housing and upper spring pad omitted.
From the top
From the bottom
Is there supposed to be any type of lubrication applied to the mount parts upon assembly or do they go together dry, front or rear? If so, what type?
I'm taking detailed measurements of all parts independently and will be posting diagrams and tables of the entire shock/strut assemblies to hopefully take some of the guesswork in calculating height with various springs/mount/shock combinations.
>shaft stop |bushing > sleeve (inserted through mount) < bushing < washer < bolt.
Should I drill the bump stop out slightly or is it supposed to be that tight?
The opening on the bump stop is tapered to 5/16"(approx 8mm), while the stop is 5/8"(16mm) followed by a ring that is approximately 23/32(18mm). The shaft itself above the stop is just shy of 1/2" (9mm) so its already a bit of a squeeze. I just see how the bump stop is supposed to fit over that stop.
The picture is of the rear shock (741014) and rear boot/bump stop (SB107)
Another couple of questions.
The front mount is an OEM.
The rear KYB mount kit (SM5091) is being assembled into an OEM EVO mount housing. Is there any reason why there appears to be 1 extra grommet in the kit? The grommet in question is the one on the upper left. The grommet is similar in design (same diameter and bore) to the one on the lower left except thinner and a larger taper. Is this simply an alternate bushing based upon application or does it go into the assembly somewhere?
One notable distinction is that the KYB instructions show the top bushing inverted from what the service manual shows. Of course both diagrams are iffy at best. I will be comparing the old shock assembly when I disassemble it from the car.
Assembled on shaft with the actual mount housing and upper spring pad omitted.
From the top
From the bottom
Is there supposed to be any type of lubrication applied to the mount parts upon assembly or do they go together dry, front or rear? If so, what type?
I'm taking detailed measurements of all parts independently and will be posting diagrams and tables of the entire shock/strut assemblies to hopefully take some of the guesswork in calculating height with various springs/mount/shock combinations.
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The bump stop stops at that boss on the shock shaft. It does not go past it.
The extra rubber bushing is for different models. 1g 2g and 2g Eclipse and some galant models use very similar parts here, and I think some of them have one different bushing. Use what matches what you take off.
On the orientation question, I believe the service manual is correct, with narrow side up, not down.
Assemble dry.
The extra rubber bushing is for different models. 1g 2g and 2g Eclipse and some galant models use very similar parts here, and I think some of them have one different bushing. Use what matches what you take off.
On the orientation question, I believe the service manual is correct, with narrow side up, not down.
Assemble dry.
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s_firestone
Well-known member
By past, do you mean when inserting from the end? Or designed to ride the piston below the boss and not come up during normal use?
I test fitted the stop with the rest of the parts. If thats the case that the bump stop does not get pushed down past the boss then the metal sleeve cannot seat against the boss. From what I observed it creates inadequate clearance to thread the bolt as well.
Let me rephrase the question. Are you saying it must be pushed down past the boss and onto the piston?
Sorry for the ambiguity.
I test fitted the stop with the rest of the parts. If thats the case that the bump stop does not get pushed down past the boss then the metal sleeve cannot seat against the boss. From what I observed it creates inadequate clearance to thread the bolt as well.
Let me rephrase the question. Are you saying it must be pushed down past the boss and onto the piston?
Sorry for the ambiguity.
I slips past the boss, use a little silicone lube & some twisting. then the big washer sets against the boss then bushing & sleeve.
If your still bound up on this in a couple of hours I can grab an old strut & do a photo disassembly.
If your still bound up on this in a couple of hours I can grab an old strut & do a photo disassembly.
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s_firestone
Well-known member
Thanks, that exactly what I needed to know.
s_firestone
Well-known member
Follow up: I got the bumpstop onto the shock tube with silicone grease. Not by twisting however because the rear AGX shock piston will rotate once enough pressure is applied(which explains the flat tip of the shock used when tightening the main bolt). Simply applying pressure would not work as the shock would just compress under the load. Velocity was the key. If you push down fast enough, the rubber deforms while sliding easily over the boss due to the silicone grease. For good measure I coated the rest of the shock piston with 3-in-1 oil to protect it.
