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JDM Clutch Issues

Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
14
Location
Duvall, WA
Hey everyone,

Put a new clutch in my '89 VR4, and am being plagued by disengagement issues (of course). I installed a new slave cylinder I had around, and bled and adjusted everything according to the Jacks Transmissions video. The clutch I installed was a Sachs from Orileys for a 91 vr4 because that's the only one they had in their system. Does anyone know if there is something different with the JDM cars that would cause disengagement issues? If so, what clutches are confirmed to work as a replacement in imported vr4s?
 

mooserage

Staff member
Joined
May 17, 2004
Messages
1,276
Location
Seattle, WA
Hopefully someone with more knowledge can check in here, but I did find this in a quick search:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm
Quoting the relevant info about Early JDM Flywheels:
The problem is with the face. The step design is very different. The JDM flywheel has 3 full pieces where the pressure plate bolts on. The US flywheels have individual pads. The US style allows for better ventilation. But the big problem is that the later US clutches need that space between the pads for clearance. The JDM flywheel pictured does not accept the clutches that are readily available here. They are not suitable for core returns.
This info is older and not sure it applies to your situation, so take it all as just on data point.

If you want to stick with OEM, have you considered using something like Nengun or another service to order an OEM clutch specific to your car from Japan (if its still available)? Otherwise, you may have to consider a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate package to make sure it all matches.

Besides that, I would just make sure you're not leaking in the clutch pedal and its not dragging (rev close to redline with the clutch in and see if the car starts moving). If it is dragging, you may need to check clutch fork wear from the pivot ball, that was a problem on mine after 200K+ miles and no lubrication.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
14
Location
Duvall, WA
That must be my issue, I should have just bought a brand new US market flywheel and the ACT clutch kit. That's probably what i'll end up doing, just for the sake of more compatibility and parts availability; I'll also service the pivot ball while I have the trans out. Thanks for the help moose 🤝
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
14
Location
Duvall, WA
Ok. I got the XACT streetlite flywheel and the MB1-HDSS clutch kit from ACT. put it all in (other clutch absolutely bombed flywheel and PP), get the trans back together and it still won't disengage. When I first turned it on it went into 1st and 2nd gear then stopped. Does that narrow any symptoms at all? Should I have shimmed my fork? I'm ordering a new one and will throw in the 2g fork and see if that fixes it, any other ideas are welcome!
 

Imback

Active member
Joined
Oct 27, 2017
Messages
36
Location
Suffolk,NY
When i got my car i got told the reason it stopped getting driven was cause of a blown clutch or something along those lines. I got it home took apart everything and replaced master and slave still to no avail. I did find the problem though. It ended up being the pedal assembly. Replaced it with another one i had laying around put all new bushings including the bronze bushing and then welded her up. After that the car moved and the old clutch in the car was actually still good.

PXL_20211102_180957895.jpg
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
14
Location
Duvall, WA
That'll be my next course of action then. I inspected the clutch fork and it looks like it's supposed to, middle of the window leaning slightly toward passenger side (driver side US). It's either the pedal or the fulcrum! Getting there :cool:
 
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