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Idle and vacuum,now i remember why i hate tuners.

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
because I get no responses lol, anyways this is my post on tuners.
Ok I've got a pretty big problem, lets start off with this, I have a JDM 6 bolt in my vr4. since my last motor blew in July of last year. well I rebuilt the the head with Crower Spring and Retainers, and the block was left untouched besides new gaskets and seals. Mods on the car are :
BSE kit
3g revised lifters
MLS HG
ARP Headstuds
DSM GT High flow manifold tapped for egt
MHI B16g fed from the head with a SS Line.
2g hard intake pipe
2g maf
Evo 560cc Injectors
Stock FPR
Evo IX Fuel pump
HKS EVC
Evo FMIC with a Custom piping kit made by a member on Gvr4.org
Eprom ECU
Keydiver chip
SAFC.
Solid Timing belt tensioner
Gates Blue Timing belt
EGR Delete and plugged throttle body ports.
2.5-3" Straight pipe.
2g o2 housing.
Gauges inside the car BOOST/Vacuum, Oil Pressure, and EGT
XTD Stage 4 6 puck unsprung clutch with New slave/Master cylinders and a extended clutch rod-SS line
Well the problem is, After I had put the motor together an oil was leaking out of one of the sprockets so i replaced the seal and then re-timed the car. It idled like it had cams, but I know I didnt add cams to it 0_o. well I rechecked the car and timing was off by half a tooth to one tooth. I re-timed it again, and made sure it was set right. and it still idles the same way, I've checked boost leaks, and I havent found any. and I changed spark plugs and wires. my idle doesnt like to stay where it should, i set it to 900-1100 but if sometimes it goes to 1200. if i turn on headlights and heater itll drop to 800 ish and wants to bog and die. if i turn my steering wheel sometimes it will draw to much power and idle will kill itself. When I drive, all I smell is fuel, and if i am at idle I smell fuel. I do not know if its because im straight pipe or if its because the IX pump is overrunning the system. I do smoke black sometimes when I am driving I hear from my friends behind me. and my Boost gauge is set as a Knock gauge, and I get maybe two light bars on stock boost, and 7 bars at 12 psi or more. I dont know if its rich or not, Ive taken out fuel and added fuel with no benefits. I just want to know whats going on with my idle, why my vacuum is so low, and why I am knocking -__-. Thanks

PS:also is the breather on the left side of the valve cover thats connected to the intake, supposed to be sucking in air? because thats what its doing.
and it DOESN'T knock all the time, just sometimes, and sometimes its way less than others. wtf!?
-shane
 
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I'm not sure about your main problem, but yes the valve cover vent should be sucking in air when you're not under boost. The PCV valve allows vapors to be pulled into the intake manifold, and fresh air from the tube in front of the turbo is pulled into the valve cover. Under boost the PCV valve closes and the oil vapors are pushed out the valve cover vent to the inlet of the turbo.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Check your compression and see if you have any weak cylinders. Otherwise I would say you might be overrunning your fuel regulator.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Could be a vaccuum leak too. Quick check is to spray brake clean around all lines and fittings as well as the manifold.
 

deez

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
1,150
Location
Chico, CA
From what I understand, an excessively rich condition can cause knock also. It really sounds like timing/ignition to me though.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quote:
Could be a vaccuum leak too. Quick check is to spray brake clean around all lines and fittings as well as the manifold.



That's not such a great idea...

Worked good back in the day, but nowadays, it causes more problems than it solves.

Brake clean will damage most paints, and will soften plastics. This can uglify the engine compartment and lead to vacuum leaks at the solenoids/plastic fittings down the road.

Do a boost leak check, and be sure to check around the injector seals with soapy water.
 

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
what about a boost leak? Ive checked for a boost leak, and I couldnt find it. but it smells real bad inside the car and outside of fuel. I think my ecu might have taken a sh!t too. I smell rotten fish once in awhile in my car -__-.
-shane
 

solidviper89

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2004
Messages
759
Location
Mission/ San Antonio, Texas
Fish=ECU caps don't quote me on this, but theres a thread floating around and I think someone said that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Also I didn't read anything about a datalogger. Try getting one to make sure all sensors are reading in spec.
 
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Wideband or take it to a shop that dynos awd and run it with their wideband. If you ask nice they might stick the probe in the tail pipe and let you see your idle AFR for free.
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
Whoa, stop everything. If your ECU has not been recapped and smells like fish, it's leaking. Having us diagnose any other issue would just be fixing deck chairs on the Titanic.

After that, log your fuel trims.
 
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